legacycentral bbs

"Remove the 2 screws holding the panel on" and are they behind the trim panel of the door release ? Or are they the one that are behind the black cork and the lower panel?

So is it best to remove the button assembly first to disconnect the wires? And how is it snapped in?

Real good work, please keep the information and pics coming.

One other thing, I thought I heard that Subaru's also suffer from the same ECU capacitor issues that other Japanese made cars do of that age.

I've searched and found nothing on removing the driver door panel, it has a window falling problem wife says.

Where can you buy them? I Just ordered some from napa, they were aftermarket plastic units that wouldn't come close to fitting let alone even plug up to the system. 1993 legacy has 3 pin outs and the after market only 2 wires. So where to buy some?

Its a sedan. Power wire is passeger side at the WINDOW ??? Is it behind the passenger kick panel? How does it go from there?
Along the floor? I haven't studied it yet my wife said she was told it was there (behind kick panel) that was before I was in the picture 10 plus years ago.

Wow, looks like you work in the subaru factory assembly area. Do you have any idea where the circuit is for the rear window heater wires? Is there a relay for it?

The whole dash panel. That thing that stretches from driver door to passenger door, and from the windshield, to the drivers and passengers legs and has the radio, heater controls, glove box, instrument cluster, switches and all that stuff on it. That thing that is removed in the upper pictures to re...

If no link to the ECU then I'm wondering how it would know to step up idle speed with the AC on? Most all newer vehicles do that.

Nice work. Could you post a pic with the screw and bolt points that hold the whole panel in ?

I did the job yesterday. The switches pop out pretty easy, using a small flat screw driver in the corner carefully, it doesn't ruin it and worked great. The link to remove the instrument panel is good for the screw locations, the ash tray bracket only needs the 2 outer screws removed, and takes a ve...

How about the switches?

Have a question, for the switches to the left of the steering wheel, how do you get them out? Do you have to reach behind and colapse the retaining clips, or just pry them out? And since I'm asking questions, how do you get that speedometer cable off the speedometer, since it looks like it has some ...

Thanks for the info. Where did you get the switch? Dealer? Any one know what exactly happens to the switch?

Wifes 93 legacy heater blower switch was acting intermitent, now not working. I need a good how to remove the fascia of the dash to get to it. She could hit the top of the dash to make it work when it wouldn't go, now it won't work even with that. Idea's??? thanks The lights come on for the heater/ ...

Take the hose off the top one in the photo, and put it on there. It will head over to the heater core.

Wish I had an engineering degree, but a my age guess it doesn't matter now.

So hows the progress? Is it in yet? You did a great job cleaning and painting stuff. Its time consuming isn't it?

I think the inexpensive option would be a JDM engine. You don't know what condition things are in if badly overheated.
The time, the machine shop costs etc. you need to figure it all up. You say you don't want to spend on valve work. Hmm overheated could mean valve problems.

I so fully agree with you I can't stand the china junk parts. But like I said some of the top manufactures are going to china to make the parts thinking they are getting a great deal. In the end its you and I that suffer, well sometimes the big company that subs there does too with the law suits etc...

I've put complete 10,000 pound plus diesel engines together with zero help, including very heavy heads. Just rotate the cylinder bank to the up position and set everything in place, no one needs to hold nothin.

oops, looks like you got it done.

Hmmm I'm confused. I don't see how you would be compressing that spring in the first place without that sorta tool?
I was guessing you already had the correct compressor tool. I guess we just need photos of the problems next time.

Don't put em on the stem to slide. Put em where they are to fit in the grooves. Hold them in place or use thick grease to do so. If you still can't release the compressor without knocking one off, get a buddy to help. Needle nose pliers or small needle nose vise grips lightly clamping may do it too.

I wouldn't use the cheap head gaskets either. But the other parts like o rings etc are fine. It beats $5 and $6 o rings from the dealer. And besides with all the sub contracting to places like China that most all auto companys do now, even those top dollar Subaru dealer parts may come from the same ...

Maybe fuel filter or the fuel pump.