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Not a CEL diagnostic tool, O'Reilly has a battery tester diagnostic tool that tests the battery, alternator, and apparently starter. The battery was tested immediately after having driven it 10 minutes to O'Reilly's, so it definitely was not low due to cranking. I'm quite clear on how a vehicle's st...

Update: Got the car started. Depressed the gas pedal to the floor and cranked it for about 5 seconds and it started up. Ran a little rough, and seemed to be running rich (white smoke and smelled like extra fuel, not oil or coolant). Drove it to the parts store and had them test the battery. Sure eno...

Thanks for that, I did consider that. I'm at the point where I would just go ahead and replace the starter if I was sure that would work. And that may very well take care of the intermittent no turn over issue, but that wouldn't really explain the newly developed no-start when it DOES turn over, wou...

Hey all. So I'm having some trouble diagnosing the startup issues with my sister's Legacy. 93 Legacy L Sedan Auto. 265k miles. Owned since 100k, so for a very long time it was very meticulously maintained. Last few years, less so. Anyway, here's the issue. It seemed to pop up out of nowhere but basi...

So I had an oil squirter work loose and bang around inside the block so I decided to do a rebuild fearing bottom end damage. I got a beautiful low mileage crank with the rods still assembled. Also bought some new main bearings. Plastigauged the clearances and everything was within spec. Then came th...

I had some 225/45/17's on them that rubbed on the spring perches. Switched to 205/50/17 and it clears. Haven't experienced any fender rub with the stock suspension.

It's been quite an interesting journey with this car. Bought her as a non-turbo automatic for $400 with blown head gaskets. Fixed it up and drove it around for a while until the auto took a crap. Sold the non-turbo motor and decided it was time to swap. Sourced a complete ej22t setup, and a 4.11 5-s...

Ok so I've put about 10k miles on the car since the swap, and it never has really felt 100%. It has been consuming a substantial amount of oil. Even after I fixed the front crank seal, the oil level drops, but now there is no oil leaking on the ground. I've only seen smoke a couple times out of some...

Makes sense, thanks for the info! Had to at least look into it, my buddy only wants $350 for all 4 plus sway bars...

I have an opportunity to pick up a full suspension setup from a 2011 STi w/ 1000 miles for an absolutely stupid price. Looks like one pair of the struts have a different way of mounting to the hub. Would I/could I use the hubs from the STi to make them work? Different top hats? Any other info/input?

Car looks great, you have done really good work. The only advice I'd give is to find a better spot for your filter. Sitting over the engine bay like that it has got to be just soaking up and sucking in heat, working against your fmic. Plus you have no distance between the filter and the MAF which ca...

Ya I T'd mine in to the line between the intake manifold and the BPV but I've been thinking about moving it because i think the gauge line is leaking slightly and it could mess with the functionality of the BPV.

I'm looking at some local Hankook Icebar W300 tires in 205/50/r17 size. Would these help my clearence or would the extra height cause issues?

You could bang in the spring perch a little bit (ghetto, but have seen it), go the spacer route (you will likely have rubbing issues on the outside and will need fender rolling), or go with coil overs or some other suspension setup. That's a big wheel & tire to fit under a 1st gen Legacy withou...

Like the title says, picked up some rims off a 2010 WRX running Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs in 225/45/R17. Put the front right on to see how it looks and check fitment. Immediately noticed the inside of the tire is up against the spring perch. What is my next step? Spacers? 215/45/R17s? Different s...

Figured I should share my experience. Ever since I got my swap completed (just put ~1800 miles on it) I have been battling against hesitation under WOT, and running super rich all the time to the point where the exhaust was spitting black soot everywhere and I'm sure fouling my cat. I didn't have ti...

Could possibly be a rear end issue. Try inserting a 15 amp fuse into the FWD slot (passenger side of the engine bay, near the firewall & strut), and see if that makes any difference. If FWD mode decreases slipping, i would suspect rear end. Not sure if that could cause the Power and ATF lights, ...

Where exactly on the boost controller was this hole that you fixed? What did you do to fix it?

Ya there are 3 10mm bolts along the middle of the valve covers to remove them. The six on the outside are the head bolts. They are supposed to be loosened and tightened in step and to torque spec. You could try torquing the head back to spec, but you're rolling the dice on whether the head gasket wi...

But that wouldnt explain the compression of zero in cylinder #1. and there is a black spot on my driveway from unburnt gas and it smells like its running rich (smells like fuel) when i let it warm up every morning. Thanks for the reply though ^^ Just finished my sti pink emblem. putting it on tomor...

Good call on the bumper! I didn't notice that it was a different style, though i did know it had been replaced. He pointed out the actual metal bumper is slightly bent in from a minor front end collision. Replaced bumper, grille, and hood, then painted the car. Good to know about the updated ecu's, ...

Just picked up a new flip project today. 96 Legacy GT, basically brand new paint job, 154k, auto. The guy replaced the water pump and timing belt but not the hydraulic tensioner (I'm assuming he probably didn't follow procedure depressing it). Said he drove it around the block after the timing chang...

Correct you can leave the engine in the car. Just buy a service manual from one of the local parts stores. That way you've got all the procedures you need for the process (especially timing). When I brought him my EJ22 n/a heads he did essentially a full rebuild (heat tank, resurface, grind valves, ...

In my opinion, definitely sounds like a bad exhaust valve. It's possible the oil is leaking into the intake somewhere, and it's just burning off in the other cylinders. It would build up on the #1 spark plug because there is no explosion to clear it off. I would go ahead and pull both heads and have...

Not sure how I didn't notice it before, but ended up being that the driver's side fuel rail had no bolts, and thus nothing holding it down. Fixed that, tightened up a couple intake clamps, and voila she runs like a champ. Boost feels great