legacycentral bbs

If the placement of the valve was so poor in the stock configuration the setup would have never been used from the factory, and the setups wouldn't be lasting the 15+ years and however many thousands of miles on thousands of different engines.

You should not mount it to the body, as that is just putting extra stress on parts that dont need it.

There is no change in thickness of "4-pot" rotors. It's the same 24mm as the majority of front rotors. As far as stopping better, depends on what is meant by better. If you mean shorter distances most likely not. There would be especially no difference between turbo fronts, overall a net w...

Just a downpipe isn't that bad. You hear less rattles that way.

Wow, it's WJM.

Anyway, Brian is right. 7 = 2.2 I was looking at the vin like a noob, instead of the applied model code.

Only C, F, J, and M share the same bolt pattern and spacing. D, E, G, H, and K fronts have the same bolt pattern but the orenitation is different, so no go. Rears have the same spacing but the bolt pattern is different.

Actually to stay consistant it's better to measure at the arch from the center of the hub. That way you can compare to stock, and whatnot.

Oh, my fault.

It is level as it sits now, the fenders are just cut differently in the front and the rear. If you lower the front more than the rear you are making the car unbalanced. Not only that you'll be making the front handle worse than stock as you'll be visiting positive camber almost immediately. I think ...

Pinks are top feed. A side feed injector will be much easier to use.

Think what you will, but a 1" drop in the front only will not allow the car to handle to its full potential. If it's more for looks then do whatever.

You're more than welcome to put a quality bar in and compare.

I was skeptical too, but not anymore.

Why are you using STi pinks? Did you change your fuel rail?

Why isn't it the same as bracing the two towers? Those towers tie into where the piece would be welded. Bracing wouldn't be added at the exact point of flex (that would only be accomplished at the ends of the strut mounts) but it's pretty close, and would have to add a fair amount of stiffness, no?...

1.5"f/.5"r sounds to me like your handling will be all whacky

Which part number are you using?

Yessir, Japanparts.com can get Strut mounts ST2032044000 and ST2032044010. The only other place to find these is from z1auto.com. z1auto wants like $250 for them. Outrageous if you ask me. Japanparts is a little more than $100 plus shipping, the normal price for STi mounts. The part number for order...

If your plate is to be lighter than the strut bar it wont be rigid enough to offset the weight difference. Also, bracing that part isn't the same as bracing the two mounts. That said, ebay bars are crap, and not worth the money. Only put em on if they're free I say. Save the money for a quality bar.

You have to change the bracket. The piece of aluminum that the tensioner bolts to.

I understand completely what you're talking about. Reference any DOHC vertical tensioner bracket to know what I'm talking about.

Throw out a part number.

BTW, I updated the first post with ride heights, it would be cool if others would do the same.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 087#182087
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 622#181622

bmxkelowna wrote:did you see any subarus in f&f3? no, for a reason

It's people like you that are the reason there were sequels.

And by that I mean, people that bought tickets.

You could, but where's the fun in that?

Sure you can. Your spring choice is limited though. And STi strut mounts are even rarer and more expensive.