legacycentral bbs

it's a helluvalot easier to work on the head gaskets if the engine is pulled.

that does sound a bit off, you may want to have your clutch engagement point checked out.

-Jason

That's exactly what i was thinking too mark. If you have no records about a clutch job on a car you just purcahsed, my recommendation would be to do it if you've got the money. That way you KNOW that it's been done. (while you've got the clutch out, might as well put in a lightened flywheel for a no...

Now i understand.. there is no specific torque spec on the intake manifold bolts, those are just a tighten-down-till-they're-tight,-but-don't-get-over-zealous-with-it kinda thing.

I'll see if i can find the intake removal section of the book. It's pretty straight forward tho.

Head gaskets are easiest with the engine out of the car, but they CAN be done with the engine in. Removing the intake manifold is going to make the job easier. The exhaust WILL have to be removed. Do you have the factory service manuals or just a Haynes or Chilton type shop manual? I have the engine...

geeeze mark, you look like you're going so slow there...

I'm going to try and shine up my legacy this weekend, maybe i can find a digital camera before it starts to rain (damn NW weather).

Have fun!

-Jason

here's a good tip i picked up the other day to detect if you have a leak in your coolant system. With this method, however, you do need to drain your engine of coolant. You can read a bit about it here: http://www.brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/1999JAN/20021218.shtml Basically, you can use a bicycle tire i...

Do you smell anything unusual in the exhaust? Is there any smoke?

More like do you smell anything unusual in the coolant? does it look foamy? How about if it has a black or dark haze sitting on top?

Are you getting any check engine codes as well?

-Jason

I'll give my vote to no, it doesn't have to be car-parts related, but i'm sure that if it gets too backed up we can split it between car parts and other stuffs.

Have fun!

-Jason

I believe i have:

Grey center console portion that surrounds the shifter (front portion with tray and snap on portion with small tray)

Rear tail light 1990 sedan

Do you want just one tail lamp or both? PM me or email off list and we can discuss..

-Jason

How fitting, the 1st post to the brake area is a write-up on a product i used yesterday. :) "The Finest One Man Brake Bleeder" from Griots Garage ( http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=35700 ) is a really nice tool for getting all your old brake fluid out and getting new fluid ...

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=11545 it'll make a drastic improvement on small scratches, but if you actually dips and chunks missing, you should just get new headlamps. But even before you shell out the bucks for new headlamps or even bulbs, why not try repointing your lamps a lit...

With 170k on the clock you may be expirencing the same thing i'm running into: Old mounts. Your tranny mount is basically two pieces of metal connected by 3 pieces of rubber. The rubber gets old, cracks, gets useless basically; then it's time to get some new ones. Of course it could be other things ...

What are the stats on your car? Year, body style, turbo/non, etc?