How I Broke My E-Brake Button--And How You're Not Going To
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- Second Gear
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How I Broke My E-Brake Button--And How You're Not Going To
After returning to my car and driving home last night, I parked on my sloped driveway only to discover that the button on my e-brake was missing, only a spring in a hole was there. I found the button in the driver foot well. Looking at the back of the button I could tell it broke off of its bottom half.
For such a little (and plastic!) thing it's rather important, without it handbrake no longer ratchets and can't hold it self up.
How did this happen? Well, my car does have 265,000+ miles on it, however, I think I can attribute this part failure to a recent habit--a habit which you will now avoid. When driving or in traffic I would idly press the button in with my thumb when the e-brake was down, then let go, causing the button to 'snap' out quickly. After about a year of doing this I must have weakened the plastic enough for it to crack, and then tear away under no more than the pressure from the button's return spring.
Now if my adorable kitten would stop walking all over the damn keyboard...
Anyways, I started this habit after my girlfriend rode my e-brake for 4 miles. I would put my hand down to check that the e-brake was down, then push the button in to be sure. Just paranoia really, and from there it became a habit of playing an abusive and deadly game--from the button's point-of-view anyway.
"How did you fix it?"--You ask, naïvely, presuming that I did fix it. Well, I did, but to no degree that would give me confidence in its future operation. Gorilla Glue, applied carefully with a toothpick to the bottom of the button. For the button to contact the shaft to which it was attached, it had to be depressed all the way, which was difficult to hold in because in this state the button it's entirely recessed in the handle. I then came up with the idea of taping a marble to the top of the button, so I could then secure the button all the way with tape over the top of the e-brake handle.
It seems to have worked, but I'll be very gentle with it from now on. I even hold the button in when pulling up to apply the e-brake for fear of the ratcheting vibration unsettling the glue--but maybe I'm just paranoid.
EDIT: Glue alone did not work, see the comments below for my solution that did work for me.
For such a little (and plastic!) thing it's rather important, without it handbrake no longer ratchets and can't hold it self up.
How did this happen? Well, my car does have 265,000+ miles on it, however, I think I can attribute this part failure to a recent habit--a habit which you will now avoid. When driving or in traffic I would idly press the button in with my thumb when the e-brake was down, then let go, causing the button to 'snap' out quickly. After about a year of doing this I must have weakened the plastic enough for it to crack, and then tear away under no more than the pressure from the button's return spring.
Now if my adorable kitten would stop walking all over the damn keyboard...
Anyways, I started this habit after my girlfriend rode my e-brake for 4 miles. I would put my hand down to check that the e-brake was down, then push the button in to be sure. Just paranoia really, and from there it became a habit of playing an abusive and deadly game--from the button's point-of-view anyway.
"How did you fix it?"--You ask, naïvely, presuming that I did fix it. Well, I did, but to no degree that would give me confidence in its future operation. Gorilla Glue, applied carefully with a toothpick to the bottom of the button. For the button to contact the shaft to which it was attached, it had to be depressed all the way, which was difficult to hold in because in this state the button it's entirely recessed in the handle. I then came up with the idea of taping a marble to the top of the button, so I could then secure the button all the way with tape over the top of the e-brake handle.
It seems to have worked, but I'll be very gentle with it from now on. I even hold the button in when pulling up to apply the e-brake for fear of the ratcheting vibration unsettling the glue--but maybe I'm just paranoid.
EDIT: Glue alone did not work, see the comments below for my solution that did work for me.
Last edited by Soul Shinobi on Thu Jan 15, 2009 7:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
Does the Legacy's e-brake button screw in?
If it does I think it would be eaiser to go to the u-pull-it do a little sight-seeing & twist one off.
I put a "spin-turn" knob (basically a aluminum door-lock knob) on my AE86's handbrake & it just screwed right in after you unscrewed the stock button & removed the spring.
180's & 90* turns are now super-duper easy....
The car is now a 2000lb 90-100WHP Big-Wheel!!!
If it does I think it would be eaiser to go to the u-pull-it do a little sight-seeing & twist one off.
I put a "spin-turn" knob (basically a aluminum door-lock knob) on my AE86's handbrake & it just screwed right in after you unscrewed the stock button & removed the spring.
180's & 90* turns are now super-duper easy....
The car is now a 2000lb 90-100WHP Big-Wheel!!!
94 Legacy SS
96 Impreza OBS
99 Impreza OBS-T
04 Sienna XLE Limited AWD
96 Impreza OBS
99 Impreza OBS-T
04 Sienna XLE Limited AWD
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- Knowledgeable
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Doesn't screw in. It's a molded piece of plastic with tabs to keep it in place and hold it's alignment.
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
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- Second Gear
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Yep, button came off again. The button is threaded, the plastic button screws onto a steel threaded shaft.
Last edited by Soul Shinobi on Thu Jan 15, 2009 7:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
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- Second Gear
- Posts: 496
- Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:49 pm
- Location: Nashua, NH, USA
No, glue alone didn't work. I didn't realize that I forgot to mention how I finally fixed it! I first glued the bottom part of the button back on. Then I used a tap, cutting into the button to tap the threads all the way in (which is not how it is normally). Make sure to use the right sized tap. Then I screwed the button back on several threads father normal--as far as I could (finishing using the edge of a pair of pliers), and with gorilla glue on the inside of the threads for good measure. Don't forgot to put the spring it first! The button is now recessed in the handle much more than normal, but it's been working fine for months.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
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- Second Gear
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- Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:49 pm
- Location: Nashua, NH, USA
No, I do not remember. I'm sure it's common and metric. I kept putting some in the button gently to see what fit the thread that were already in the plastic. you may want to try it in the smaller back end that's probably still on the threaded shaft in the brake handle since there are enough threads on that. Remove it with needle-nosed pliers. After that I just held the tap up to the shaft inside the handle to see what pitch matched.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
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- Second Gear
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- Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:49 pm
- Location: Nashua, NH, USA
I'm fine with my fix, but I'd recommend tapping those out too so they can be screwed on farther to ensure they won't later break too.
If either of you two, TrueBlue or tahiti350 find out what the tap size and pitch is, post it here!
If either of you two, TrueBlue or tahiti350 find out what the tap size and pitch is, post it here!
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
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- Second Gear
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Okay, the button and shaft threads are M4 x 0.7
Also I picked up two buttons at a junk yard recently while I was there, one black, one tan, in case anyone needs one.
Also I picked up two buttons at a junk yard recently while I was there, one black, one tan, in case anyone needs one.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
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- Second Gear
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- Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:49 pm
- Location: Nashua, NH, USA
The two spare buttons are up for sale, thread has pics.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewforum.php?f=15
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewforum.php?f=15
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
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- Second Gear
- Posts: 496
- Joined: Fri Apr 14, 2006 8:49 pm
- Location: Nashua, NH, USA
It just unscrews, it can be a bit stiff but there's nothing more to it.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser