91 vented rears... other than buying 15 inch rims to fit over the rotors.
what else do i need...
do i need to buy the calipers as well?
What is involved? is it as easy as slipping everything on and screwwing the
brake lines on?
91Legacy LS WGN
David
Brakes
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
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Rod Grosvenor
BRAKES
Hi-try Dale Teague`s website (www.teaguesauto.com)-he shows some decently
priced rotors that are a little above stock $-also, check out SPD tuning &
Cobb tuning for suggestions on the correct STREET brake pads-hope this
helps-ROD
priced rotors that are a little above stock $-also, check out SPD tuning &
Cobb tuning for suggestions on the correct STREET brake pads-hope this
helps-ROD
-
Rod_
BRAKES
You could try looking at www.mrtrally.com.au
I know they have a range of brakes/rotors plus endless other performance
parts. They are one of the most experienced Subaru performance shops I know
of. I have dealt with them on numerous accounts. Also, I know they do ship
to the US. The way the Aus $ is at the moment it may be well worth it. You
will find a contact email address on their website so you can ask them for
their opinion on brakes.
Regards, Rod ...........Sydney ......Australia
I know they have a range of brakes/rotors plus endless other performance
parts. They are one of the most experienced Subaru performance shops I know
of. I have dealt with them on numerous accounts. Also, I know they do ship
to the US. The way the Aus $ is at the moment it may be well worth it. You
will find a contact email address on their website so you can ask them for
their opinion on brakes.
Regards, Rod ...........Sydney ......Australia
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Josh Colombo
BRAKES
Well I've been through the brake situation. I've even gotten
cross-drilled brembro rotors, and had carbon metallic pads, etc.
Honestly, if you want good braking, and don't want to spend alot of
money, just get stock rotors and a decent set of semi-metallics or
carbon metallics. If you want to go all out, here's what I would
recommend. The stock rotor size is just too small, even if you got some
impreza rotors and 4-pot calipers, that's alot better. I would also
recommend getting steel braided brake lines and I'm not sure if you
would need a new master cylinder with the caliper upgrades or not. Of
course you'll probably need at least 16" wheels or larger to do
something like that, but with a larger rotor there's less chance of
warpage cause there's more material to dissipate the heat, and more
surface area for breaking. Check out www.spdusa.com Mike's got alot of
info on the site and is very knowledgeable and helpful.
if you have any other questions drop me a line
Josh
cross-drilled brembro rotors, and had carbon metallic pads, etc.
Honestly, if you want good braking, and don't want to spend alot of
money, just get stock rotors and a decent set of semi-metallics or
carbon metallics. If you want to go all out, here's what I would
recommend. The stock rotor size is just too small, even if you got some
impreza rotors and 4-pot calipers, that's alot better. I would also
recommend getting steel braided brake lines and I'm not sure if you
would need a new master cylinder with the caliper upgrades or not. Of
course you'll probably need at least 16" wheels or larger to do
something like that, but with a larger rotor there's less chance of
warpage cause there's more material to dissipate the heat, and more
surface area for breaking. Check out www.spdusa.com Mike's got alot of
info on the site and is very knowledgeable and helpful.
if you have any other questions drop me a line
Josh
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Mark Ward_
Brakes
Hi Everyone,
I just got back from 10 days on the road running 2 national rallies. I was
able to talk to Subaru Canada about tips for car setup etc. They were very
helpful!
First tip:
Brake Fluid, The recommended brake fluid for our car is Ford brand dot 3!
the temperature rating is 550deg F I bought some from a dealer and got
enough in 1 can to completely replace my brake fluid for $6.00cdn. The
fluid was great, even in 30deg weather, I had no brake fade or other
problems and yes, I was left foot braking alot.
Next tip, boost control!
Event results and press release to follow soon. In car footage as soon as
my home computer is fixed (roommate messed it up while I was away).
Mark
www.rrunracing.com
I just got back from 10 days on the road running 2 national rallies. I was
able to talk to Subaru Canada about tips for car setup etc. They were very
helpful!
First tip:
Brake Fluid, The recommended brake fluid for our car is Ford brand dot 3!
the temperature rating is 550deg F I bought some from a dealer and got
enough in 1 can to completely replace my brake fluid for $6.00cdn. The
fluid was great, even in 30deg weather, I had no brake fade or other
problems and yes, I was left foot braking alot.
Next tip, boost control!
Event results and press release to follow soon. In car footage as soon as
my home computer is fixed (roommate messed it up while I was away).
Mark
www.rrunracing.com
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PJHARJ
brakes
I don't know if anyone asked, but if they did I don't remember seeing a
response. Do the stock 15" Turbo wheels fit over the 11.4" setup? I am
running my snows on the stock wheels and the Michelin rally tires on 15"
Racelines, too much stuff to get rid of if they don't clear.
PeteH
response. Do the stock 15" Turbo wheels fit over the 11.4" setup? I am
running my snows on the stock wheels and the Michelin rally tires on 15"
Racelines, too much stuff to get rid of if they don't clear.
PeteH
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jason grahn
brakes
>I don't know if anyone asked, but if they did I don't remember seeing a
>response. Do the stock 15" Turbo wheels fit over the 11.4" setup? I am
>running my snows on the stock wheels and the Michelin rally tires on 15"
>Racelines, too much stuff to get rid of if they don't clear.
I don't believe that they do.. The 15's are too small.
Jason
>response. Do the stock 15" Turbo wheels fit over the 11.4" setup? I am
>running my snows on the stock wheels and the Michelin rally tires on 15"
>Racelines, too much stuff to get rid of if they don't clear.
I don't believe that they do.. The 15's are too small.
Jason
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subaruracer755@cs.com
brakes
im really thinknig of removing the ABS system alltogether.. has anyone ever replaced their brakes with a NON ABS system, lines, etc?
mine is donig this weird funky thing. since i have one sensor cut and havent replaced it cause i cant get the damn thing out, it goes through the self test for a 1/4 mile or so, then its disabled. but after that my brakes are soft, unless i double pump. AND im losing fluid very slowly VERY slowly.. 3-4 months and then i need to add fluid.. and something new in th elast week the rears are dragging... i already ordered new rear discs and pads cause they need to be done... im thinknig i have a sticky/leaking caliper.
any idears????
mine is donig this weird funky thing. since i have one sensor cut and havent replaced it cause i cant get the damn thing out, it goes through the self test for a 1/4 mile or so, then its disabled. but after that my brakes are soft, unless i double pump. AND im losing fluid very slowly VERY slowly.. 3-4 months and then i need to add fluid.. and something new in th elast week the rears are dragging... i already ordered new rear discs and pads cause they need to be done... im thinknig i have a sticky/leaking caliper.
any idears????
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milehial2000
brakes
Replacing the brake system could cost a little. I read somwheres that
the booster is different with the ABS system and I wonder what else
might be different like proportioning valves ect. I changed a lot when
I went with Turbo Legacy brakes on my Imprezza and I found that when I
came to a damaged hub the whole thing with the sensor was pretty
cheap at a local yard as most of this stuff goes to the shredder. I
have a few sensors and two hubs they might be the same??
AL(CO)
the booster is different with the ABS system and I wonder what else
might be different like proportioning valves ect. I changed a lot when
I went with Turbo Legacy brakes on my Imprezza and I found that when I
came to a damaged hub the whole thing with the sensor was pretty
cheap at a local yard as most of this stuff goes to the shredder. I
have a few sensors and two hubs they might be the same??
AL(CO)
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Bill Covert
brakes
It probably isnt your abs system. You should find the problem and fix it right away.You should not lose brake fluid,and your brakes should not be mushy.I ran without an abs for a year due to a damaged sensor, and the brakes worked fine,except for no abs.Start at the calipers(all 4) and work your way towards the master cyl. looking for leaks or damage.Replace anything that isnt working properly.It is a dangerous situation to be driving with brakes that dont function properly.You should make fixing this problem a priority.Good luck,BillC
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Z1Auto@aol.com
brakes
well, the Rs front rotors not only fit, but are the same as the Legacy Turbo front rotors are..did it today along with gold 98 RS wheels and Yokohama A520's 205/55/16
Adam
Z-1 Performance
www.z1auto.com
(631)254-8277
Adam
Z-1 Performance
www.z1auto.com
(631)254-8277
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Josh Colombo
brakes
I've used both set of pads.....actually have mintex on their now. From talking to people.....I'd suggest cryo-treating the rotors if you go mintex. They will hold up much better. I have cryo-treated rotors and do not seem to exhibit the same results that some of the people with non-cryo treated rotors & mintex pads have.
metal masters are good....little bit above OEM in terms of stopping power....can't complain for their price. One of the better bang-for-your-buck pads. May want to try the ultimates, they are supposed to be a little more agressive then the metal masters.
Josh
metal masters are good....little bit above OEM in terms of stopping power....can't complain for their price. One of the better bang-for-your-buck pads. May want to try the ultimates, they are supposed to be a little more agressive then the metal masters.
Josh
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Josh Colombo
brakes
Cryo treating is a metallurgic process. Not sure how familiar you are with the structure of metals/materials. But materials....mainly speaking of metals here....have a grain structure to them. Depending on how the grain structure is setup can determine how much strength, ductility, toughness, hardness, etc a piece of metal has. Turbine blades are composed entirely of one single grain structure. This is done for the utmost strength and resistance against the cyclic loading they undergo.
Anyway.....cast materials....i.e. rotors have a pretty crappy grain structure and can have porosity in them. Spots where the metal did not cool at the same rate, or had some sort of imperfection. Cryo-treating helps align/improve the grain structures of the metal to give it better strength, hardness...etc. It is actually a two step process. The object/metal is frozen at a controlled rate close to absolute zero. It may be held there for a certain amount of time, and then is brought back up in temp......and then at the end undergoes an annealing process to put toughness and durability back in the metal.
I have been happy with my rotors. The principle behind cryo-treating is very good..... www.onecryo.com was the cheapest place I found to do rotors.....like $25 a rotor......I'd check the price.
If I were going to build a monster motor....I'd seriously consider having the engine pieces cryo-treated.
Try doing a search on google about cryo-treatments......or read some stuff on onecryo......it'll probably help explain things a little better.
Josh
Anyway.....cast materials....i.e. rotors have a pretty crappy grain structure and can have porosity in them. Spots where the metal did not cool at the same rate, or had some sort of imperfection. Cryo-treating helps align/improve the grain structures of the metal to give it better strength, hardness...etc. It is actually a two step process. The object/metal is frozen at a controlled rate close to absolute zero. It may be held there for a certain amount of time, and then is brought back up in temp......and then at the end undergoes an annealing process to put toughness and durability back in the metal.
I have been happy with my rotors. The principle behind cryo-treating is very good..... www.onecryo.com was the cheapest place I found to do rotors.....like $25 a rotor......I'd check the price.
If I were going to build a monster motor....I'd seriously consider having the engine pieces cryo-treated.
Try doing a search on google about cryo-treatments......or read some stuff on onecryo......it'll probably help explain things a little better.
Josh