legacycentral bbs

Anyone interested in seeing a how-to for this?

I recently had to replace my driver's door lock cylinder, because part of it sheared off. The new lock cylinder came with its own keys, so my driver's door used a different key from the other doors and the ignition (still WAY better than not being able to unlock the driver's door.....).

I was just messing around with my old, broken driver's door lock cylinder, and decided to take it apart.

I noticed how simply it was put together, and decided to re-key my new lock to my old key (so all the doors/ignition use the same key).

I haven't done this yet, but plan on doing so over the weekend. I could take some pics if anyone would like. I just have to fix my radiator first.....

I just dealt with this problem. I did it all myself and it cost me 2 dollars and 2 hours time. I could do it in an hour if i knew what i was doing.

My inner cylander had broken. It could turn around just as you described.

I went to the junkyard and picked up a drivers door lock off a 94 turbo. I went home and took my door handle off. There are 2 screws holding a backing plate that holds the handle on. the plate will fall into the door, disconnect the 2 wires from the lock assembly, not the handle. Thats the only way to get the handle back on.

Take your lock out of the handle by removing the retaining clip. disassemble the lock by taking off the C clip first, then the aluminum thing that is pressed on, and slide the broken lock core out. Take off the recentering springs, noticing where they go.
Take apart the donor lock in the same way.
Slide your key in the broken lock and see how the teeth move up and down. Thats how the lock works.
Now, use pliers and wiggle to pull all the teeth out of the donor lock core, being careful to leave the springs in place. Take the teeth and throw them as far as you can.
Now, line the two locks up together so they are facing the same way. Pull each key individually from your broken lock and place it IN THE EXACT SAME PLACE on your donor core.
When you've done it correctly, all the teeth will be in when you put the key in, allowing the core to spin in the casing. Put the whole assembly back together and put it in the handle.
The 2 wires are still attached to the handle, put the handle in the door and put the backing back and reconnect the wires. Congradulations, you now rekeyed a lock!

What did you do, Scott, just copy and paste your write up from before? hehe

I used those same instructions that Scott just posted and it was an absolute cinch. Removing and reinstalling the handle/lock assembly in the door is much more of a pain than the actual rekeying process (actually the rekeying was kinda fun, oddly enough).

Why couldn't you have pitched in before when I was asking about it?

Hopefully a new lock from subaru will be the same as my older one. The new key looks to have fewer cuts.........

Man. I wish there were junkyards around here.

Iron it sounds as if you can pull each tooth out one at a time making sure you label them as to the way they came out. It could be that all locks use the same teeth, just in a different order. If that is the case then perhaps just re-installing them according to the size of the old lock should get you keyed properly, otherwise you would have to use the old teeth from the orignal lock (in your new lock).....

Yup, copy and paste

IronMonkeyL255 wrote:Why couldn't you have pitched in before when I was asking about it?

Sorry, i didnt see it before, i dont read body/chassis very often. Besides, my instructions were right there, you only had to search for them.

IronMonkeyL255 wrote:Hopefully a new lock from subaru will be the same as my older one. The new key looks to have fewer cuts.........

That's where I got my replacement lock was from the dealer (from Kent at Prestige, to be precise) and had no issues with it. I don't know how specific they are to a model type, though.

The part number I got was X5741AA020 and my request was for a '91 Legacy Turbo driver's door lock cylinder, so...if that helps you any...

They were exactly the same.

I also fixed the lock's annoying tendency to not want to unlock when the key is pushed all the way in (always had to back it out ~1mm). While I was at it, I replaced the pin things with the new ones where possible.

Works good as new now.

Well, there I was, ready to ask about my lock when I happened on this thread. Glad I did some homework. Now to find a lock to re-key for the driver's door. My Ignition lock is feeling a little sloppy, my OEM key died years ago, and my spare key is getting pretty worn, too.

I think I see a trip to the junk yard in my future, but there are just so few Subies in junkyards around here--south Georgia. Guess they last too long. Anyone have an idea what a new door/ig lock set might cost, or where to find a serviceable used set?

Of course, any other suggestions are welcome, too. I am getting a great education here. Thanks, everyone.


Don

90 Legacy L wagon, fwd, mt

I can check on the spare door locks I have to see how well they work if you're interested (and if I can separate them from the handles).

Steve

That would be great, Steve. Saw pics of your wagon and it really looks great. Wish I could find some nice wheels for mine, but have almost new tires on it, so I guess that will wait a while.

Thanks,

Don

Finally got my lock re-keyed and installed today. The lock work was fun; R&R-ing the backing plate on the latch was a real bitch, though.