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So we decided to tackle finally installing my boost controller this weekend now that l finally have a job with sane hours. lt's a dual position, switch on the fly type. So we get the wires run, and begin wiring the switch. 3inputs, power, ground, and accessory. So, we run the wire from the boost controller to the accessory input on the switch, and tap into the ashtray light for power and ground. Red for positive, black for negative, right? Apparently not. The switch started smoking. Okay, time to troubleshoot. So we get out the test light and low and behold, red is earth and the black wire is hot. WTF?!?! That defies like every theory of electronics. Anyway, it works now, but Wtf mate?

Wire color doesn't mean sh*t. Always test all wires before hooking up to them.

Binford wrote:Wire color doesn't mean sh*t. Always test all wires before hooking up to them.

Right. Change the subject line to "What the fuck was Laurel thinking?"

theoretically, red should be positive though. Why would you make your red wire negative though? it makes no sense

Because if you tried to wire a car so that everything hot was red and everything ground was black, everything would be black and red and you'd shoot yourself trying to wire anything ever.


Wiring diagrams are you friend.

What happens when you make assumptions?

Laurel! Bail while your still behind... lol.

I don't understand the benefit of switched ground... maybe we can discuss that.

Uh, the wires are still red and black... Switching them around just makes more confusion, not less for anyone. I could see if they used two completely different colors. They should move to a standard system like the telephone industry.

evolutionmovement wrote:Uh, the wires are still red and black... Switching them around just makes more confusion, not less for anyone. I could see if they used two completely different colors. They should move to a standard system like the telephone industry.

That was my point. it seems silly for them to switch red and black. I'd have checked voltage in a heartbeat if they were different colors.

I was commenting more on Splinter's post about the difficulties of making everything black and red ground and hot respectively. I think his point would be valid if the wires were any colors but red and black. Though working on cheap boats and lots of used cars where previous owners did their own wiring 'upgrades' or band-aid repairs has taught me not to take color for granted.

Hmmmm... service manual for '92 says the ashtray lights are
Yellow w/ blue stripe, and
White w/ yellow stripe

Maybe those colors just in the harness and the wires are red and black in the ashtray itself. Maybe somebody messed up the connector at some point? The light wouldn't know the difference, so it's plausible that somebody got 'em swapped.


Why would the switch smoke? Is it an illuminated switch?


So, there are some important things for others to remember:

1) multimeter the wires to make sure you know what you're looking at before doing anything.

2) There are lots of TYPES of 12V. Do you want battery power that's ON even when car is off? Do you want power that comes on only when the car is on? Do you want it to come on only when the headlights are on? Do you want the power to be "dimmed" by the dimmer? For this reason, there will be many colors used, but they are pretty consistent. Just make sure your getting what you want. You don'thave to use the service manual to figure out what you're getting... you can also just hook up a multimeter and watch it while you turn things on and off and dim them.

Case in point: If I understood Laurel's post correctly, then even if she had the wires oriented right, the boost controller would only work when the headlights were on and the dimmer switch was turned up all the way.

The dash light system does not have a true ground, here's an explanation I gave in another post, saves typing and all...

The Legacy dimming control doesn’t work like a lot of other (and older) cars, it is not a variable (stepped) +DC voltage referenced to ground. It is referenced to +12 VDC, one leg of the circuit is +12VDC all the time and the other is stepped from 0 up to +12VDC, so when both legs are +12VDC there is no voltage potential across the bulbs and the lights go out… the higher the voltage on the “ground” leg the less light.

Gary

I never turn my headlights off. Honestly, i never gave much thought to that, I probably should have. I'll have to do some testing this afternoon.

The switch was an illuminated switch. It isn't anymore. lol

Ok, good that it was an illuminated switch! - that explains the smoke. If it wasn't illuminated, then was worried that you had bigger problems

lol, yeah, i'm blonde. Guess I'll be taking apart the center console one more time this weekend.

L - can you let us know when you get this installed and post a review or sumpin? Thinking of going the same route, love to see how you did it! Thanks, A

it's already installed, i'll try and snap some photos and do a quick writeup. i love having the choice to switch between high and low boost settings, but i'm not quite sure it's worth 200 bucks. i'll put it all in a writeup eventually.

Thanks, yeah love to see it and hear how you have it set and what it's like et al.

I have a line on one used on Nabisco for less than $200 but awaiting pics from the guy...

200 bucks? Which boost controller is it?

If you say TurboXS, I'll be very upset that you didn't call me first. We are a TurboXS distributor! I get the mad discounts.

I think we're talking about this one...

Dual Stage Boost Controller (BC-DSBC) MSRP US$249.00
The Dual Stage Boost Controller allows you to switch between two preset boost levels with the flip of a switch from inside the car. Got a high horsepower Front Wheel Drive turbocharged car that can't get off the line? Use the BC-DSBC to launch the car with low boost than switch to the second stage higher boost level for maximum top end power.

http://www.turboxs.com/shop_prod.php?what_category=

For those thinking about it, I also thought a dual stage boost controller seemded like a cool idea at first. But, when I actually got a standard MBC, I realized that I really had no need to flip between boost levels on the fly. And, I'm the kind of person who uses this car for everything from racing to commuting to long trips. Now, I don't think it's worth the money to get dual stage, just my 2 cents.

Good point. Anyone got a link to an installation diagram? Looks like the dual unit adds complexity violating my KISS philosophy. Need to fit plug thinyee for switch and find power for switch, add toggle switch to dash through firewall, messy, messy,...i'm talking myself out of it...

L- awaiting your install write up when you do get to it...

Thanks!!

it's not too complicated, but not worth the $190 I spent on it.

I do enjoy having the two levels in the cabin though. I've been driving around at low boost most of the time, but if I get fed up with someone and need by, or want to accelerate quickly for any reason, I can reach down next to my boost gauge and flip the switch.

Probably saves gas...I'll check it out a the meet. Loooooking forward to putting faces with names...Cheers,

BAC5.2 wrote:200 bucks? Which boost controller is it?

If you say TurboXS, I'll be very upset that you didn't call me first. We are a TurboXS distributor! I get the mad discounts.

She bought it several months ago, Phil. I think before you started your job at the shop.