legacycentral bbs

I noticed several people asking for pictures and instructions on how to replace struts and springs, so I figured I would post what I know.

These pictures were taken when I installed KYB GR2s and Impreza 2.5RS springs on my friend's 1992 Legacy Sport Sedan.

Right into the install:
1. Obtain Legacy Sport Sedan


2. Obtain necessary parts and tools
-KYB GR2 struts
-Impreza front shocks from junkyard (used for upper spring perches)
-Impreza 2.5RS springs
-Jack
-Jackstands
-Harbor Freight Electric Impact Wrench
-Harbor Freight Spring Compressors
-Vise Grips (I accidentally left them in the photo)


3. Break loose lugnuts on front wheels


4. Raise hood and place jack under car


5. Place jack under front crossmember plate


6. Lift car


7. Place car on jackstands


8. Remove wheel


9. Notice the strut to knuckle bolt nuts and the ABS bracket on the front of the strut


10. Notice the strut to knuckle bolts and brake line bracket on the rear of the strut


11. Use a screwdriver and a hammer to lightly tap off the brake line retainer (or use pliers to pull it off)


12. Remove brake line retainer and keep it in a safe place


13. Push brake line back through bracket in preparation for next step


14. I know people might moan and complain about this step, but I've done it on several suspension installs...Cut a piece out of the brake bracket to slide out the brake line (you will repeat this on the new strut to get the brake line in). This way you can avoid cracking the line on the caliper and having to bleed the brakes afterward. DO NOT CUT THE RUBBER BRAKE LINE


15. Make a mark on the top of the top strut to knuckle bolt. This step is necessary because the top bolt sets the camber of the wheel, and so, assuming your wheels are aligned the way you want before you replace your struts, this step will help the wheels remain aligned correctly AFTER you install the new struts


16. Here's a view of the mark I made on the top strut to knuckle bolt


17. Strut to knuckle bolts and nuts are 19mm


18. You might have to use a cheater pipe if you don't have air tools, electric tools, or ridiculous strength


19. Go ahead and loosen the strut to knuckle bolts


20. Remove the washer and nuts from the strut to knuckle bolts. Remember that the washer goes on the top bolt


21. Remove the ABS bracket from the top bolt


22. Tap out strut to knuckle bolts


23. Remove the top strut to knuckle bolt and notice how it is actually a cam bolt. This is what sets the camber on each of the front wheels, so hopefully you made a mark earlier so you can reinstall this bolt the same way


24. Remove the bottom strut to knuckle bolt


25. Go under the hood to find the three strut mount nuts on the shock tower and remove them (they should all be 12mm)


26. Put the top strut mount nuts in a safe place (I generally use the front fender mounting rail)


27. Loosen the strut from the knuckle. Usually you can do this by pushing down on the wheel studs and the rotor while pushing the strut back towards the body of the car. The knuckle will also tilt outwards a bit if that helps


28. Now lower the strut down far enough until you can tilt the top of the strut out of the wheel well, then remove the entire assembly


29. Now take a look at your handy work, you're halfway to having a new strut! Although you're only a quarter of the way to having new front struts and an eighth of the way to having all new struts


30. For this particular install, nearly everything is getting replaced EXCEPT for the top strut mounts, so we still have to disassemble the strut, spring, etc. However, I chose to swap springs, so I need to get those Impreza spring perches off the Impreza struts first. So the first step is to compress the spring with those Harbor Freight spring compressors and the electric impact wrench (my choice on the impact wrench, but it makes a huge difference in time and frustration)


31. With the spring SAFELY compressed (you can tell if it has been compressed enough by whether or not the spring is still firmly seated on the strut spring perch and the upper spring perch), loosen the top strut nut (should be a 17mm). I have always done this with an impact wrench, whether air or electric, and I would recommend the same for anyone else


32. Take a look at all the pieces that make up your strut assembly, from top to bottom you have:
-shock
-bump stop (still on shock shaft)
-dust boot
-spring (still compressed)
-top spring perch
-washer
-top strut mount (with bearing)
-top strut nut
-strut nut dust cap


33. Now take the top spring perch and put it aside to be used in the new setup. Compress the spring on the Legacy strut and then take off the top strut nut


34. Here's a side by side comparison of the old components (right) and the new(er) components (left)


35. Compress the RS spring, place it on the new strut and place the bump stop on the new strut


36. Now put on the Impreza spring perch, washer, legacy strut mount, and new strut nut on top and tighten


37. Loosen the spring compressors and VOILA, you've got a fully assembled strut


38. Remember to cut a slot in the brake line bracket on the new struts so that you can slide the brake line into position


39. Place the new strut into position in the shock tower and loosely tighten the top strut nuts to hold the strut


40. Place the strut back onto the knuckle (this may take some tweaking) and place the strut to knuckle bolts in position. Make sure the TOP BOLT WITH THE MARK ON IT IS ON TOP, and find that mark


41. Rotate the top bolt into the correct orientation based on where you put the mark (in my case, the top position)


42. Place the ABS bracket onto the top strut to knuckle bolt


43. Place the washer and nut on the top bolt and just the nut on the bottom bolt and tighten both


44. It has already been shown in some of these pictures, but place the brake line back into the bracket and tap the brake line retainer into place


45. Now tighten the top strut mount nuts and you're done with one side.



As an aside, here's a comparison of the top spring perches for the Legacy (Right) and Impreza (Left):


I have pictures from the rear suspension install as well, although I was a little rushed, so there aren't quite as many (which may not be a bad thing).

If I missed something crucial, let me know and I'll modify the post. Also, I keep calling it the knuckle because that's what I've heard other mechanics refer to it as, but I'm sure there's a name in the Subaru factory service manual that is more correct.

Excellent!

The only thing I can add is that loosening the top strut bolt before the car is off the ground can help break it loose, especially if you don't have air tools available.

Liquid Wrench helps too. Also I remember having to "index" my front struts so that they slid in easier. Basically you need to have the upper spring perch aligned properly. There should be the word 'out' stamped on to top side of the perch, so the word 'out' should be pointing out from the car when the strut is installed. I had that problem when doing the suspension on my car and though I would pass that on in case anyone else has the same problem.

I agree with cutting the strut for the brake line.

It might be good to add that you want to be very careful when tightening the three strut top bolts. They are very prone to breaking.

14lb-ft is the spec I think.

Welcome to the Board!

WOW! First post and it's surely a "WOW"! Terrific write-up! I like the step-by-step instructions with the pics and also the REASONS for taking a certain course of action -- it makes a person feel like they know what they're doing (which they now do!). And, I like your humor, too!

I'm sure if you decide to do the same for R&Ring other items, we'd all learn something; I know I would! (You could be the author of a "Dummies" book on Subaru repair or "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive!") Your write-up certainly beats all manuals I've seen, including the FSM! You could publish a book and become famous in the Subaru community!

As regards cutting the brake line bracket, I did the same as you until someone suggested an alternative to that -- just cut the tab down the center and bend one side of the metal back and the other side forward then slip out the brake line. After installing the brake line, bend the metal "fingers" back together then insert the clip. Either way will work and it's much better than bleeding the brakes (unless you're going to do it anyway).

In picture #34, it's not a big deal, but isn't the new/er components on the left and the old on the right?

The only possibly crucial point to consider is not to use the impact wrench when compressing the springs. A friend of mine, who's a master mechanic and takes shortcuts whenever he can, sternly warned me NEVER to use an impact wrench when compressing the springs. He said that a number of things can happen, such as binding of the compressor tool. You'll be able to feel that when using a socket and ratchet but not with an impact wrench and the spring compressor can break and in an instant you can maim yourself. . . or worse. To do the socket and ratchet method, the strut will have to clamped in a vise; otherwise, the strut will move all over the place when loosening/tightening the spring comprssor. But, using an impact wrench is surely a LOT faster. I guess we all have to make choices . . .

One more thing: it's a personal thing but it's nice to see someone wearing gloves as they work on the car. I almost always wear gloves not only to partially protect my hands from all the grease and chemicals but clean up is quick! No more "mechanic hands."

Thanks for your post!

As long as you don't blindly crank away with the impact gun there's no problem. I guess that goes for pretty much everything.

Also a fan of the gloves. I got a set of mechanix gloves for free at the last rim of the world rally but they're in a box somewhere soaked with atf. Too bad latex doesn't protect from cuts.

Nice step-by-step writeup!

I agree with 93Leg-c about cutting the brake bracket tab. I just made one cut and bent part of the bracket. This allows for a more complete bracket.

93Leg-c wrote:Welcome to the Board!

WOW! First post and it's surely a "WOW"! Terrific write-up! I like the step-by-step instructions with the pics and also the REASONS for taking a certain course of action -- it makes a person feel like they know what they're doing (which they now do!). And, I like your humor, too!

I'm sure if you decide to do the same for R&Ring other items, we'd all learn something; I know I would! (You could be the author of a "Dummies" book on Subaru repair or "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive!") Your write-up certainly beats all manuals I've seen, including the FSM! You could publish a book and become famous in the Subaru community!

As regards cutting the brake line bracket, I did the same as you until someone suggested an alternative to that -- just cut the tab down the center and bend one side of the metal back and the other side forward then slip out the brake line. After installing the brake line, bend the metal "fingers" back together then insert the clip. Either way will work and it's much better than bleeding the brakes (unless you're going to do it anyway).

In picture #34, it's not a big deal, but isn't the new/er components on the left and the old on the right?

The only possibly crucial point to consider is not to use the impact wrench when compressing the springs. A friend of mine, who's a master mechanic and takes shortcuts whenever he can, sternly warned me NEVER to use an impact wrench when compressing the springs. He said that a number of things can happen, such as binding of the compressor tool. You'll be able to feel that when using a socket and ratchet but not with an impact wrench and the spring compressor can break and in an instant you can maim yourself. . . or worse. To do the socket and ratchet method, the strut will have to clamped in a vise; otherwise, the strut will move all over the place when loosening/tightening the spring comprssor. But, using an impact wrench is surely a LOT faster. I guess we all have to make choices . . .

One more thing: it's a personal thing but it's nice to see someone wearing gloves as they work on the car. I almost always wear gloves not only to partially protect my hands from all the grease and chemicals but clean up is quick! No more "mechanic hands."

Thanks for your post!

I've been on several boards over the years, maxima.org for my 96 Maxima, turbobricks.com for my 84 Volvo 242 DL (later +T), NASIOC for my 00 Impreza 2.5RS (auto) and then my 00 Impreza 2.5RS (manual), so I've been the beneficiary of MANY DIY and how-to threads.

I was also fortunate to work as a Subaru mechanic for a summer at Beyer Subaru in northern Virginia, so I've been through or at least watched a ton of repairs on Subarus. Fortunately Subaru didn't really change the position and orientation of a lot of parts over the years, so if you can do a 93-01 Impreza, you can do a lot.

As I said in the beginning, this car actually belongs to my friend, and I was in the process of replacing a lot, not limited to:
-driver side automatic seatbelt
-automatic seatbelt computer
-driver side window regulator
-180K service (just a 30K basically...plugs, oil, gear oil, pcv, air filter, washer fluid, coolant, etc)
-shifter bushings and return spring(although I tried swapping in a 97 Impreza shifter and found out the shifter stay is too long...man those roll pins SUCK)
-radio
-diagnosing check engine light syndrome (the previous shop had left both the black AND green connectors connected, so the CEL just flashed all the time...it kind of made my friend nervous)
-shocks and springs
-various trim pieces inside the car
-hacked off stock muffler and welded on Thrush glasspack (it sounds very nice now, for about $30...although honestly I could've done better on the alignment of the muffler before welding, but it works)
-removed rattling heat shields (I think Subaru put those on so that someday they WOULD rattle)

With the Mechanix gloves, or any gloves for that matter, I tend to be very involved with the removal/install of parts, so the gloves just leave me with a nice line of grease on my wrist from where the glove kept me clean. If it weren't so hot, I would've gone for sleeves, but that's what Gojo is for.

As for #34, thanks for catching that, it should be fixed now.

Having returned my friend's car to him, I probably won't have many more posts, but I'll see what I've got left on my camera and at least post that.

I already left out one important step:

46. Replace dust cap on strut top

Now the writeup for the rear is not going to be nearly as detailed as for the front, mainly because I was in a rush, but also because almost everything from the front swap applies to the rear swap, with a few exceptions.

For instance, if I explain how to take out and reinstall the front, then I just give you the steps to take out the rear, then hopefully you can deduce the steps to reinstall the rear. If you can't, then I'm sorry, because that's what I'm about to do.

1. Break loose lug nuts on rear wheels


2. Jack car from rear differential


3. Place car on jackstands


4. Remove wheel

5. Notice bottom strut bolts


6. Notice bottom strut nuts and brake line bracket


7. Remove brake line bracket the same way as on the front, although getting a screwdriver and hammer in might be a little more tricky because of clearances. I had to slide a screwdriver in from the bottom and hammer up gently


8. Cut a slot in the brake line bracket, but this time on the top of the bracket (cut the slot on the side where you pulled the brake line retainer off)


9. Move the brake line out of the way


10. Go ahead and remove the rear strut bolts the same way you did on the front (19mm bolts and nuts), and wiggle the strut a bit to get it loose.

10. Now open the rear driver side door and get ready to remove the rear seat. You're looking for two bolts, one on the driver side and one on the passenger side, that sit below the rear seat on the upholstered part of the footwell (where the back of your heels would be)


11. Remove the seat bottom bolts (both 12mm)


12. The rear seat bottom should tilt up and slide forward, then you can remove the seat from the car


13. Now find and remove the three bolts that hold in the rear seat back
Driver side bolt


Middle bolt (tough to see, but you can see half of it under the seat back)


Passenger side bolt


14. With all three bolts removed, make sure the seat back passthrough is open or at least loose, then slide up the seat and gently pull it forward. If you have to really pull forward hard, then you haven't slid the seat high enough to get it off. When you're done removing the seat, it should look like this


15. You should now be able to see the top strut mount for the driver and passenger side rear struts (bad pictures, but the strut mounts are in that hole where the seat belt tensioner is)
Driver side


Passenger side


16. Now loosen the top strut mount nuts. You should be able to get a deep 12mm socket and a ratchet in on two of the nuts, albeit with very little travel in the ratchet, and you may only be able to get a box end 12mm wrench on the nut under the seatbelt (that one is a PAIN).

17. With all of the nut and bolts that hold the strut removed, remove the strut from the car



Now there are no more pictures, but the next steps are nearly identical to steps 33-45 for the front (although you are only replacing the spring and strut, not the front perch as on the front). Just as a nod to the Haynes manual, or any good car manual, here is the obligatory 18th step:


18. Installation is the opposite of removal.

I just have to say this, it's so much easier to replace the rear struts on a wagon.

Any pics of ride height after Rs spring install?

Sorry, I returned the car to my friend the day after I finished repairing everything. Hopefully he'll have the car for some time to come, so I can try to get some pictures later.

fullup1 wrote:Now the writeup for the rear is not going to be nearly as detailed as for the front, mainly because I was in a rush, but also because almost everything from the front swap applies to the rear swap, with a few exceptions.

<snip>.

dude i need your help about the color code of your car

The car is painted "Ice Blue" first year for that color was 1993.



That's a good write-up!
Except for the part where you cut the brake line bracket. I would have said- "remove brake lines and send wife/girlfriend (which ever is there at the time) and tell her to run to the auto part store to get the same thing in stainless braided." just teasing, but again- good write-up!

wow, that will be unbelievably helpful for when I'm ready to do mine. Very useful write up especially since I've never swapped struts but plan on it soon. Thanks ALOT!

Excellent write up!

I cut the slot in the brake line brackets the first time I had to replace the CV boots. Mostly because my old Nissan was that way, I think from the factory, and it just made sense to me.

As far as leaving anything out, the ONLY thing I can think of is, breathe in and breathe out.

This is a very thorough procedure you have documented and I for one appreciate it.

Great job.

Thanks,

Great Write up, Thank you for your time.

Great post!

Wonderful write up! I got a 2nd gen but it's pretty much the same.. However my brake line clip few off and I can't seem to find it right now..

What can I use to get the bolt out from the rear? impact wrench is too big for the rear bolts well at least on the nut side.

I hate it when people quote entire posts chalked full of pictures so it takes forever just to scroll down the page.

Glad it was not me

kimokalihi wrote:I hate it when people quote entire posts chalked full of pictures so it takes forever just to scroll down the page.

Fixed

1-3-2-4 wrote:What can I use to get the bolt out from the rear? impact wrench is too big for the rear bolts well at least on the nut side.

Do you have a 1/2" u-joint of flex? Try putting the impact wrench on the bolt side and put a wrench on the nut side.

Legacy777 wrote:

1-3-2-4 wrote:What can I use to get the bolt out from the rear? impact wrench is too big for the rear bolts well at least on the nut side.

Do you have a 1/2" u-joint of flex? Try putting the impact wrench on the bolt side and put a wrench on the nut side.

Josh I have a wobble socket but not a u-joint for the socket I tried with the wrench on the nut side and the impact on the bolt side.. no dice.. Now if I could do it the other way around I know it would come off.

Have you tried a breaker bar on the nut with a cheater bar on the breaker bar?

when I find my breaker bar I can try but I only have deep sockets so I don't know off hand if that's going to be as bad as trying to use the impact on the nut for the rear