legacycentral bbs

If you have a EJ22T, and you're looking to upgrade your fuel system, everyone loves the JDM greytop 440cc injectors. Here's a quick "how you can drop them into your Legacy Turbo fuel rails". This was done on a 91 EJ22T.

Parts list:
1 16608aa020 Seal-fuel Injector x4
2 16698aa020 O Ring-injector x4
3 16697aa000 Ring-injector x4
4 16696aa000 Spacer-injector x4
5 16698aa010 O Ring-injector x4

Picture of parts list (credit to bsod2600)


Note: These directions are for removing the entire fuel rail, it could be done without removing the rail, but it's much easier if you do it this way. The old injectors WILL be stuck hard and if you can handle the rail, you'll have a much easier time. The only reason I could see NOT removing the rail is you want to save $25 only buying 4 new O-rings instead of 8.


By n2x4

1. Disconnect the 4 injector plugs, and unbolt your fuel rails. There are 2 bolts on each rail that bolt the rail to the manifold, and 4 8mm fuel line bolts that need to be removed.

2. Remove the injector "caps". These are 8mm as well. Then remove the old injector from the rail. This requires a bit of work as they're tough to get out. I used my 8mm socket and tapped them out with a hammer. After the old injector is out, inspect the inside of the fuel rail to make sure all the old o-rings came out.

3. Assemble your 440's with their hardware. Here's a picture of the greytop next to the pinktop:


By n2x4

Injectors and some of the proper O-rings. You need 4 of each of these:

By n2x4

I bought these injectors with hardware back in 2007 but never installed them. Per Kleinkid's instruction, I bought these other O-rings which aren't listed in the JDM FSM scan, 16696AA000 which goes up where the red ring was drawn:


By n2x4


4. Set the injector into the rail. It won't go completely in, so screw back on the injector cap to seat the injector the rest of the way. Here's what 440cc injectors look like in the rails. O-ring 16608AA020 is pointed out in red:

By n2x4

Reinstalling the injector caps and the fuel rail to manifold bolts calls for 17ft. lbs. DO NOT forget to reinstall the metal spacer/washer that goes between the intake manifold and the fuel rail. Forgetting to do so will bend your fuel rail

There are 2 other injector O-rings that I didn't list part numbers for as the injectors I purchased already had them installed. Here is a picture of all the o-rings that go on the injector, and their part number. Don't mind that it's got a yellow top, they still use the same parts. Thanks Kleinkid!


By n2x4

There are also 3 o-rings that go on the ends of the fuel rails between the fuel line.

Your red ring and arrow are correct.

Where did you get your O-rings for $10?

Nice writeup.

Nice write up.

Im doing the same thing when I do my fuel line. Keeping stock rails and doing equal -6 lines.
Ill post it up

Ok,

I've got confirmation from multiple sources that I put the mystery oring in the correct spot so I've fixed my thread title. As far as the $10 orings go, I meant that leaving the rails on would require 4 less orings. Total cost on all of them was around $25.

I'll get the other part numbers and do a bit more editing before I'm done with the how to. My tech writing professor wouldn't be happy with me yet.....

So the stock wiring will work on these? they look like the clips are different, but maybe I'm just seeing things.

Grayguy wrote:So the stock wiring will work on these? they look like the clips are different, but maybe I'm just seeing things.

They fit, just turn the connector upside down and slide it in.

$25 for all 8? Where?

where and for how much can you usually source these injectors? I can get a set of bluetop injectors for $40, but then I'd need different rails, so I'm just doing a little research

ScottyS wrote:$25 for all 8? Where?

I just looked up the price for those orings online. Wow. My receipt had a dealer credit on it, which is why I remember paying $25 I'll fix the thread to not get anyone's hopes up!

I got these injectors on ebay back in 07 from a place out of japan. They were rebuilt and flow tested. There's a few sets floating around the classifieds as well.

Totally. I was thinking, "I need a hookup on these!" lol.

I just picked up an EJ20 that's got grey tops on it, I was thinking of using those.

If I go with a clean/test and new rings, that's like $175, crazy. I need a wideband before that.

Maybe I'll just get new rings and call the injectors good.

N2X4,
Thanks...I needed those O-ring part numbers!


I was having a heck of a time getting a couple of online Subie part dealers get 'em.


EDIT-12/2013: I just installed a set of these 440's in EJ22T rails and did NOT need the 16696aa000 Spacer-injector x4 - the one directly under the blue screen. This was on the advice of Bill @ Mr. Injector who cleaned/tested my injectors. - He stated 'you don't need those'. So, I tried it and had no issues. He had the other 2 O-rings.

TD

wtdash wrote:N2X4,
Thanks...I needed those O-ring part numbers!


I was having a heck of a time getting a couple of online Subie part dealers get 'em.

Not a problem - the info was shared with me so I'm passing it on. Keep in mind though, there are a total of 4 o rings per injector. I only have 2 of the P/N's since my injectors came with the other 2 already. I'm still trying to find the #'s for this thread.

I updated the first thread, everything you need to know is listed now, though some of it repeats itself. If you don't understand something, please let me know. There's also a pretty good thread on Nasioc: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... did=977160

Just for kicks, I tried to install the injectors in 95 1.8L rails and 98 2.2L rails, and these injectors won't fit in them correctly. Just a little FYI.

I went out to my garage today to try to figure out which manifold I'll be using on my twin turbo EJ20 DOHC motor. I have the manifold that came on it but the TPS connector is a 3 prong connector and the connector on my wiring harness is a 4 prong. So that made me decide to use the EJ20G manifold I have. But it doesn't have injectors so I started to remove the grey top injectors (are these 440s?) that came with the EJ20 twin turbo motor to put them in the EJ20G manifold. I put the first injector in and pushed it as far down as I could with my finger and then put the cap on and started tightening the bolts. Then this happened.







How do I get the injector all the way down before I bolt the cap on? I think it might just need to be cleaned but I wasn't sure what I could use to clean the inside of the fuel rail where the injector sits.

you need to spray the o-rings with wd40 or pb blaster
Then the injectors rim, the top sits flush with the cup. If your using the sti yellows
But if your using the greys like above then just push til the silver body goes away then your done.

You also might have the wrong rails.
Dont you need to use the N/A rails for the grey side feeds?

I have no idea. The one injector that's in the EJ20G rail is pink and looks just like the grey ones although I haven't removed it from the rail yet.

Now that I finally have my own 440cc injectors, a few questions.

1) The pictures and part numbers for some of your stuff doesn't match up. "16608AA020 which goes up where the red ring was drawn".

16608AA020 is a "Fuel Injector Seal". Yet, in the picture (of the yellowtop), it appears 16696AA000 - "Injector Spacer" is in place of where you stated 16608AA020 goes. To further complicate the picture, you also state, "O-ring 16696AA000 is pointed out in red". This is the big beefy O-ring which the injectors sit on -- yet, you have it labeled differently in the picture.

Which is correct?

2) If the JDM FSM doesn't state you need "16608AA020 which goes up where the red ring was drawn" , nor the stock injector appears to have a seal in that position, how do you know one is really needed?

3) Does one have to get new injector spacers (bottom of the fuel rail) for the swap, or it's just a good idea to replace?

The 440's I got look like this:

BSOD2600--Looking at your injector there, you still need 16696AA000 spacer-injector. It goes right up against the bottom of the blue plastic cage. It is shown in the picture of the yellow top injector. Granted, the arrows and part numbers are not exactly precise, in the yellow top pic, but those are the right parts needed and right numbers. It is also shown in one of the pics of the gray next to the pink.

16608AA020 seal-fuel injecto, seals the rail at the intake manifold, inspect the old seal and replace if neccessary.

Right now, the costs of the parts listed by the OP and NASIOC are as follows from subaruparts.com:

Needless to say, I will be inspecting all the seals to determine if they are actually needed. $200 in o-rings + $100 for servicing, not to mention original injector cost is a lot of money for injectors!

$200 is a lot for little o-rings. But look at it this way: it's a lot cheaper than replacing everything in the engine bay, or the whole car after a fire.

this might be an alternative:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &viewitem=

there are no part numbers, but you have dimensions that you can check against, and i don't believe it is all the o-rings you'll need, but maybe it's at least some of them. plus, shipping is free.

disclamer - i came across the posting looking for 440cc injectors. i have no personal experience with the vendor.

Sorry for the minor mismatching of the o-rings. I'll try and get them corrected. As far as whether you need all these o-rings or not,

I chose to purchase all of them injector to manifold seals includedl. As Kleinkid stated, you can replace as needed. You'd be surprised how dry your old seals can be. To me, it wasn't worth risking a fuel leak.

As far as o-ring prices go, if you purchase one of the refurb injector sets from ebay, you'll find that it comes with all but 2 of the injector o rings as shown in the first picture with part numbers. This puts your o ring expenses at about $70.

The injector oring service kit posted above also looks like a GREAT money savings option. I wouldn't hesitate to try it.

Great Info!

Oh, I'm not knocking the write-up, it's a great asset.

I think that inspection/replacement is the best option as well.