legacycentral bbs

Stan, Do your injectors look like this?
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... injectors/

Yes, exactly. Well the easiest way to find out - their top side has 0R00 scripture.

stan31337 wrote:

Stan, Do your injectors look like this?
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... injectors/

Yes, exactly. Well the easiest way to find out - their top side has 0R00 scripture.

I'll look for that on the markings when I look at them this evening.

Thanks a lot! I'm going to bed with a calm soul (it's 1:12 AM)... I don't know how to correctly translate this phrase to English, but I'm a little bit happier after all these terrible months of frustrations and searches of truth... ))

Stan,

I looked last night and either I got rid of the old injectors or can't find them. I am however confident that the 90-91 non-turbo AT equipped Legacies have the same injectors that you need for your car.

Hopefully you'll be able to find a set for a resaonble price and get your Legacy running the way it's supposed to.

Thank you very much Josh for your efforts! I'm in the middle of the ebay deal for those injectors, remanufactured ones for just $100. I hope it will be finished smoothly and after 1-2 weeks I'll install them into my engine

I am very very grateful for your immeasurable support! I believe the goal of getting my Legacy back to the close-to-perfect shape will get materialized thanks to you and other forum members who helped me out so much!

You'r very welcome! Good luck with the ebay auction and keep us posted once you get the injectors installed.

I'm back! I've successfully received injectors from TLFPerformance Parts bought on Ebay. I was waiting for a package to be delivered to Russia for about 12 days + 3 days from Illinois to Oregon. That's pretty fast though... Today I installed injectors and bought new spark plugs also. Now I need to wait until my car runs for about 100 km to fill her up again and measure the fuel consumption...
Here's a blog post about new injectors: http://www.drive2.ru/l/3468762/ Although it's in Russian language - pictures are understandable throught the Globe

Stan,

Good to hear you got the injectors. So how does the car run? Does it run any differently than before?

I would highly recommend you reset your ECU since it has been running for so long on the incorrect injectors. Resetting the ECU will clear the incorrect learned fuel trims. You can disconnect the battery cable for an hour or so, remove fuse 14 EGI/TCU, or use both the green & black connectors and follow the procedure on my site, http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Actually I think the ECU was completely cleared, because I disconnected the battery completely, and removed it from the car for 12 days... And only after installing new injectors I returned battery back.

I guess it's a victory!
After installing new injectors I went to the Gas station and filled her up to the maximum, then I drove 100 kilometers (62.14 miles). Weather was warm, mostly fast accelerations, half - city, half - track. Speeds up to 120 kph (74.5 mph), couple of kick-downs. Then I filled her up again, and I got 13.6 liters. So it's 13.6 l/100 km (18.09 mpg). Remanufactured injectors from TLFPerformance Parts, new water temperature sensor, old MAF, old fuel pressure regulator, new fuel filter, new fuel-pump filter, new throttle gasket, new air-control valve gasket, and new piece of PCV hose. I also still have a new Bremi MAF laying on the shelf, should I try installing it?

Now I will focus on suspension and ABS. I also want to replace grease and boots in all four shafts

Now I have another problem. My steering gear box is getting worse. Dexron is running out and I don't know if I'll be able to fix it with repair kits without any tools. I wanted to ask how much does 34110-AA050 steering rack from junkyard cost in US? I've found one on Ebay, but it's pretty expensive - $284, and delivery will cost about $150.
Could anyone help me out with finding the used rack in good condition?

Thanks in advance.

Glad to hear the mileage is better. Does the car run any better than it did before?

You could try the Bremi MAF, but if it didn't work before it may not be any different now.


Regarding the power steering rack, I'd suggest posting in the Parts Shed asking what a used rack goes for.

Yes, Bremi MAF didn't do any good again, instead it was working completely wrong, and the burnt gasoline started to spit out of the muffler again, so I had to switch back to the old MAF.

I guess I still have to take a look at the wiring, I remember I had one cable shortened somewhere at MAF, so I think I'll recheck them again. As for the ABS I've found one cable that is shortened somewhere, because it shows 0 Ohms (cable-body) instead of 1MOhm.

As for the rack will it be enough to just buy two repair kits and repair it myself according to the manual?

As for improvements: I've installed new KYB shock-absorbers, feels great now. Here's a link: http://www.drive2.ru/l/3510129/ and also bought polyurethane rear suspension parts, produced in Novosibirk for harsch Siberian roads and winters. I guess I'll install them during this/next weekend.

It may be that Bremi MAF may not be the correct MAF sensor.

I really don't have any experience rebuilding the steering rack, but I can recommend checking out this thread. There is A LOT of info and pictures.

http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewto ... =6&t=45717

New struts can completely change how the car feels. I've been very happy with the KYB's I've purchased over the years for multiple Subarus.

Wow! Thanks for the link, amazingly detailed info there.

You're welcome.

It seems that again I'm getting poor mileage... Can't say exact number but it's noticeable... I think I should recheck the wiring, I remember I had issue with few MAF wires... And amazingly on that same side one ABS wire is shortened out... I wanted to ask few questions:
1. Does SSM protocol support the ability to show current fuel consumption?
2. Is it possible to find out that crank-angle sensor is operational without osciolograph?
3. Is it possible for the timing belt to jump through few teeth by itself?

No the SSM protocol does not support the ability to show fuel consumption on the first gen Legacy ECU's. The closest you could get is injector pulse width. The full list of parameters can be seen towards the bottom of Vikash's scan tool page. http://surrealmirage.com/vrg3/b10scan/


Yes, you can check the crank sensor with a multi-meter in the AC mode. This is from the Subaru factory manual.

1. Disconnect crank angle sensor connector
2. Check if voltage varies synchronously with engine revolutions when cranking, while monitoring voltage between crank angle sensor connector terminals (AC 0.1 V, min.)

You can d/l the engine & electrical from me for the 92 model year. It won't be exactly the same, but should help and provide some guidance.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... and_Elect/

Also, here is the full overseas 92 Subaru manuals. They may be more applicable to your car.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... SM_-_FULL/


If the timing belt tensioner is worn or bad, yes the belt could jump a tooth or two.

Sorry for not writing for such a long time, and again thanks for the suggestions and links!
I've been really busy trying to solve problems with electrics...

The first problem is heater fan... It was connected directly from the key wires, so the heater was working with turned off ignition... I've found the old wire and connected it as it should be - from relay. But... Now when I switch the heater control (with turned on ignition) I don't hear the heater fan, but I hear radiator fan working! My A/C is disconnected, and there is no freon in the system. Could it be some kind of pressure gauge turning on the emergency mode?

The second problem is door switches. They don't light up with turned off ignition. Is there a way to make sure that combination meter is powered when the ignition is turned off?

i have a used steering rack if youd like it, worked great in my car till i crashed it haha

ride_child wrote:i have a used steering rack if youd like it, worked great in my car till i crashed it haha

I've already ordered repair kits, and in about a week will repair my steering rack...

stan31337 wrote:Sorry for not writing for such a long time, and again thanks for the suggestions and links!
I've been really busy trying to solve problems with electrics...

The first problem is heater fan... It was connected directly from the key wires, so the heater was working with turned off ignition... I've found the old wire and connected it as it should be - from relay. But... Now when I switch the heater control (with turned on ignition) I don't hear the heater fan, but I hear radiator fan working! My A/C is disconnected, and there is no freon in the system. Could it be some kind of pressure gauge turning on the emergency mode?

The second problem is door switches. They don't light up with turned off ignition. Is there a way to make sure that combination meter is powered when the ignition is turned off?

Have you downloading the factory manuals from me with the wiring diagrams? If not, do that so you have something to use in troubleshooting the wiring.

Regarding the blower motor, check that all the fuses are good. Fuses 20 & 21 feed the blower motor relay.

Does the radiator fan come on even when the car is "cold" in the morning? Do both fans come on or does only one fan come on? Try unplugging the electrical connector that plugs into the pressure switch on the AC receiver drier. It's a silver looking cylinder on the passenger side strut tower. Here's a pic.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_2944.JPG


Can you elaborate what you mean by the door switches. Does your car have the entry lights on the door panel that light up when you open the door, or are you talking about something else?

Regarding the blower motor, check that all the fuses are good. Fuses 20 & 21 feed the blower motor relay.

Fuses are fine, 15A each as they should be.

Does the radiator fan come on even when the car is "cold" in the morning? Do both fans come on or does only one fan come on? Try unplugging the electrical connector that plugs into the pressure switch on the AC receiver drier. It's a silver looking cylinder on the passenger side strut tower. Here's a pic.

Today I was playing with heater controls, and radiator fan turned on. Then I started the engine with heater turned off, but radiator fan was still running. I had to turn off the ignition, unplug this pressure switch, so the radiator fan turned off. But heater still doesn't work, although it is connected to the relay.

Can you elaborate what you mean by the door switches. Does your car have the entry lights on the door panel that light up when you open the door, or are you talking about something else?

These switches:


They turn on this lights:


The problem is - when the ignition is turned ON - they work flawlessly, but when the ignition is off lamps don't light up, but the switches are working, because the interior lamp turns on when every door is opened.

stan31337 wrote:The problem is - when the ignition is turned ON - they work flawlessly, but when the ignition is off lamps don't light up, but the switches are working, because the interior lamp turns on when every door is opened.

The behavior you described is normal. The doors on car in the dash will only light up with the ignition ON. This behavior was changed on the newer Subarus, but that's how things are setup for the first gen Legacy.

just my 02 cents: in my 1993 Legacy the door signs on the dash light up with the ignition OFF as well.
The wiring diagrams show that they are powered directly from the battery (fuse 25) and are grounded through door switches.