legacycentral bbs

i could be wrong but i do believe the sti down pipe is a very small if any upgrade on the stocker, it still has the plate blocking the waste gate rather than a bell-mouth or divorced opening and 2 fairly restrictive cats,
people with sti's uprgrade their exhaust just as often as people with wrx's ...

i'd say get a 3" downpipe with or without a highflow cat in it along with a 3" mid pipe that has a resonator in it and then pick whatever muffler you want be it an sti one or some aftermarket one...

or you could get something like a borla hush catback to go with the downpipe...

either way the ...

hey there sorry for being late

for the msd coil you dont need much, you need plug wires off a later subaru that have the male ended coils, unlike the female end coils our cars have.
you need the connector that plugs into the coil off an early neon 1998ish
and you need 2 bolts just like the ones ...

amen

on most i've seen, you put the car in neutral, handbrake on, push some button, turn the key off (engine will stay running),get out, and lock the doors. the system will shut the engine off. this is the only way it can know the car is in neutral. if you unlock/ open doors, it disables and you would ...

I FIGURED IT OUT!!!
with the eng still running in neutral park brake on i hit the start button on the fob 3 times. this unlocks the doors and then i take the key out but the eng stays running so i g et out of the car close all the doors and then hit the start button on the fob twice and the car ...

http://img524.imageshack.us/g/1031091247.jpg/

3 buttons, looks a lot like the oem remote (from what the pics in the owners manual look like it just has the extra button) has a wood grain like finish. a lot like my legacys dash lol.

-Alex

any chance you could go through some of the more common "procedures" so that manual cars will start with the button? i've tried a few with no luck.

the casing for the computer under the dash has nothing imprinted on it just that sticker. i thought about opening it up but i dont want to mess ...

hmm i'll try this, theres a toggle switch and a little red button under the dash, i'll play around with them.
thanks!
-Alex

no thats the actual unit. like the computer or whatever you want to call it. the thing that receives the signal and then says lets unlock the doors or start the car blah blah. its one thats actually meant for a manual transmission.

i'm down to 2 things. i've read of people saying if the hood is ...

alright so i just bought an 03 wrx with 95000km. i love it! its completely stock for now.
so it came with a remote starter/alarm
the alarm and remote door locks work great but when i hit the car start button the exterior lights flash 10 times and thats it.
car in neutral, hand brake on, doors closed ...

well i'll remove the cover anyways to check the cam gear but i'll do that too.

and thanks for that site, lots of good info

-Alex

hmm what you mentioned about the cam sproket bumps is a plausible idea... its a piece of cake to remove the timing cover on the end too so maybe i'll have a look tomorrow...

-Alex

what do you think about a valve not sealing properly at high temperature? this is what a few people have been saying but then there should be loss of power at wot if i hold it long enough not after letting off. with me power and smoothness is fine untill i let off. only thing fuel related i havent ...

yeah i highly doubt theres anything wrong in there as i did look around a bit to easy my curiosity and nothing stood out as unusual.

i'm going to try to get compression and leakdown tests done. although i would expect internal issues to show up at other times and not allow the car to run as great ...

i had the computer out not long ago when i was diagnosing another issue and taking the revtronix chip out and then putting it back in.
and evrything looked in order, didnt look with a magnifying glass though. so maybe i'll pull it back out just in case.

-Alex

no way its the coil i changed it after the issue started happening with no change and same with the plugs and plug wires.

but you are right it is a wasted spark system so anything spark related would hit 2 cyls... hmmm i'm stuck! its not the worst issue possible i mean in city driving even driving ...

so by going wot from near zero to 100-120ish and then lettign it coast to 80 and holding it with part throttle i can get the missfire to stay around long enough to unplug stuff so by unplugging injectors i determined drivers front (closest to rad) cylinder is the one missing. swapped that injector ...

yeah i had figured the torque would be significantly higher than hp. but in my opinion for city driving its funner that way than the other way around.

i'm currently running on 94 octane (there is no 93 here) and i usually run about 18psi or a bit under with a ball and spring type mbc. the turbo ...

that sucks!! i could only imagine 20 psi out of an engine like that...
hows the steering? are you using a different rack or just drained all the fluid out of the stocker? i'd imagine its not bad in motion but parallel parking and slow maneuvers must suck...

good luck rebuilding!

-Alex

yeah i have the v2 chip and its no fuel cut, i know what that feels like.
if it were fuel cut then on let off the car would miss once and then regain itself, as this is what it did with the v1 chip.

with me on let off there is no abnormalities but if i stop at a light right away or give it gas ...

nope nevermind i guess i just hadnt had a good enough run.

still same thing wot for an extended period of time (e.g. from 20 to 90km/h) and it feels great the whole way no miss no roughness lots of power and a great pull. then once i let off the throttle for a few seconds and then stop or ...

i'm running the gr2's with the h&r's (and upgraded swaybars) and i couldnt be happyer. nice stance comfortable yet firm ride and great cornering (even before the swaybars). lowered rear about an inch and the front almost an inch and a half which took away the goofy front higher than rear look. much ...

yep i nevr touched the original wire just installed the second one as well. but if the voltage at the batt positive and the alt positive is the same then the added wire will do nothing.

woah 11.2 is waay low does it go up with rpm? my car sat at 14.1v last time i checked (week ago) at 700 rpm. it used to sit around 13.6 when my car was idling really low/rough. either way at 700ish rpm it shouldnt be much lower than 14 v.
how long ago did you change the alternator? does the car die ...