Hi, so I took my car to a local mechanic yesterday because I am having fuel overuse and popping at idle problems. Now I am a electrically and mechanically trained but unfortunately do not have an engine/ECU analyser so I thought after months of chasing this problem I might as well take it to someone who did. Now I can read a manual, unfortunately the f#*kwit mechanic cannot (even though I left it on the passenger seat for him) and he decided to fuck with the idle stop screw on the throttle body which in the throttle body section of my manual it states (more or less) this is adjusted at the factory, DO NOT FUCK WITH IT. As you set the TPS 0.7 mm off this point, I now have no reference.
Does anyone know if there is a measurement from where the butterfly is fully closed to how far up you wind the stop, or whether there is a measurement from the inside of the throttle body to the flap (can you stick a feeler gauge down there?), or do I have to send it back to be flow tested, or just get another one?
I HATE Ultra Tune Fitzroy Australia.
Any comments appreciated, cheers.
Half brained mechanics
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evolutionmovement
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Is there marker paint on the screw that you can use to reference where it should be? I think the USDM does.
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I doubt it would make much if adjusted. Realistically the idle control valve will adjust. Also id look at maybe spraying some IAC cleaner down the IAC hose when engine is hot and off, then start with throttle on, then go on and off throttle to make the IAC actuate. See if it cures the problems.
Could even be wires and plugs and probably is actually! When were they last replaced?
Could even be wires and plugs and probably is actually! When were they last replaced?
1993 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon R.I.P
1994 Subaru Legacy SS R.I.P :(
2004 Nissan Titan LE 4X4
2007 Subaru Legacy GT :)
1994 Subaru Legacy SS R.I.P :(
2004 Nissan Titan LE 4X4
2007 Subaru Legacy GT :)
Plugs, leads, oxy sensor all replaced. BAC valve removed, cleaned with brakeclean, resistance checked ok and reinstalled prior to taking to mechanic.
The mechanic claims he found an air leak between the throttle body and inlet manifold which he fixed with a thin homemade gasket that led to this problem. The engine (sorry should of mentioned it is an EJ22 out of a 1992 liberty/legacy) is in a VW kombi and has a modified intake manifold which does not give full rotation adjustment to the TPS unless the correct thickness factory gasket is installed (as soon as I got it home I made a thicker gasket out of extractor gasket material, and the TPS turns fine and adjusts ok). So I guess to even know if the problem is fixed I need to get back to my TPS datum point 0.7mm off the stop screw before any further fault finding can occur.
The mechanic claims he found an air leak between the throttle body and inlet manifold which he fixed with a thin homemade gasket that led to this problem. The engine (sorry should of mentioned it is an EJ22 out of a 1992 liberty/legacy) is in a VW kombi and has a modified intake manifold which does not give full rotation adjustment to the TPS unless the correct thickness factory gasket is installed (as soon as I got it home I made a thicker gasket out of extractor gasket material, and the TPS turns fine and adjusts ok). So I guess to even know if the problem is fixed I need to get back to my TPS datum point 0.7mm off the stop screw before any further fault finding can occur.
