HELP! What is this breather?

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 7:55 pm

I'm talking about the one on the top center of the turbo block to the pass side. It comes out of the crankcase and points forward 90 degrees. It's right behind the 'EJ22' crankcase stamp and does not exist on the N/A.

If no one knows, I'll just plug it.

Steve

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:02 pm

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... hlight=pcv

no pic anymore but it's the same piece you're talking about.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:23 pm

Thanks. I thought it had been mentioned before, but I'm pressed for time, although I know I'm not going to make it.

Steve

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 8:25 pm

not with that attitude!

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 12:47 am

The problem is hunting down this 12 x 1.25 metric fitting to block the oil-to-turbo port. My usual specialist car parts place is closed Sundays and all I could find was 1.25 nuts, 1.75 bolts, and a 1.5 plug. I've partly threaded the 1.5 plug in with loctite but I have no confidence.

My other issue is I don't necessarily want the other people in the building seeing me swap the engines as they might complain to the land lord and I don't think he'd be as impressed as he should be. Plus I don't want to look like white trash swapping motors in the driveway with my shirt off. Yep, yep, yep. I recon so.

Steve

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 12:55 am

Did you confirm that it's 1.25mm thread spacing?

I don't think a wrong-pitch plug partly threaded in will work... oil pressure is too high.

You don't have any of the stock banjo bolts, do you? A little time with a hacksaw or a nut with copper washers in between could do the job.

Or hammer out a lug stud from one your your hubs.

Is it a violation of your lease to work on your car outside the building?

douglas vincent · Post by **douglas vincent** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 4:04 am

Dont "look" like white trash, "be" white trash! Have some confidence! Get the old lady girl pit pull with tits hanging down to the ground hitched up to the bumber! Put a wife beater on for Christs sake! Set a few pounders of BUD on top of the car as you and your jail tattoed friends grunt and swear at the engine!

douglas vincent · Post by **douglas vincent** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 4:05 am

Whoops, maybe that was just my neighbors here in SE Portland getting to me!

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:52 am

Yeah, I don't have any confidence in my oil seal. It's definitely 1.25 pitch. Damn Subaru likes to use this and I can always only find 1.75 and 1.5. Same with the engine to transmission bolts. I even tried to get a cotter pin I could use as a sleeve to fit inside the banjo bolt and then pin it through the open end by the head, but they had nothing for that either. I'm hoping Britton's will come to my rescue again. My brother-in-law's letting me borrow his OBS again while he goes down to the boat tomorrow so I'll be able to chase down parts. I still have to pull the motor out, change the flywheel over and drop the new one in. I have to be at work at 1 tomorrow for some orientation, but he said I could call and reschedule for Tues. I might have to, but I hope not.

Incidentally my brother-in-law's OBS had been running like shit due to timing retard so I swapped out his cracked knock sensor with the extra from my turbo engine and it now runs great. I also found the knock sensor in my dead engine to be cracked in a couple spots so my suspicion that knock sensor failure allowed detonation may be true, but I want to know whay the damn ECU didn't cut timing and why I even had detonation in an N/A engine that was running great up until the piston disintegrated.

Steve

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 6:03 am

I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the cotter pin, but...

You said you found some M12x1.25mm nuts. Couldn't you use a few of those plus a banjo bolt and a few 12mm copper washers to seal the opening? Like, stick a washer on the bolt, then thread a nut on all the way until it's covering the hole in the bolt, then put another washer on, then thread another nut on, and so forth until the remaining length on the bolt is appropriate. Then finally put one more copper washer between the assembly and the head.

So your knock sensor failed without the ECU's realizing it? Damn.

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 6:09 am

im still going back to running lean from the series rail.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:10 pm

Vikash - I can't add a nut as the banjo bolt is flared where the hole is unless I want a loose fit which doesn't matter as I found the right size bolt at Brittons.

Hardy - Maybe that's why it detonated and the knock sensor of course didn't stop it. It would make sense as it ran so damn well up to that point. I just hope it doesn't happen again, though I have a new sensor and with the lower compression it will be less likely to blow.

Steve

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 5:14 pm

what ou should consider doing, while you've pretty muc hs still got it apart is setting it up for parallel. I'm going to do that once I get some free time after hearing this.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 7:43 pm

No time. Need car. This job seriously sucks. I should've junked the friggin' car.

Steve

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 7:45 pm

Ah. I was thinking a loose fit wouldn't matter since you could still cinch it up against the copper gaskets. But the right size bolt's a better solution.

With the turbo motor's compression ratio, you could probably run more than the ECU's maximum permissible advance and still not get anywhere near MBT or detonation.

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HELP! What is this breather?

HELP! What is this breather?