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I'd still trust my re950's eleventy billion times more in rain.

I used to have toyo proxes RA1's on at all times, not sucha good idea, water = no fun

thanks for the advice. i was trying to get my brother to help me replace my cv joint but he works 6 days a week and now i am in cheney going to school. i probably have to just give up and take the quick route and take my car to a shop. i wish i could take laurel up on her offer, but i don't have the time or money to haul my ass to the other side of the state. oh well. the mods will just have to wait!

sounds like tristan will drive across the state for you

do you have the weekend off? come on! It can be a legacy working on day. Or call Tristan, he's got nothing to do on the weekends.

LaureltheQueen wrote:do you have the weekend off? come on! It can be a legacy working on day. Or call Tristan, he's got nothing to do on the weekends.

ummmm what she meant to say was I am sure he could arrange his schedule and clear out some lesser important events. You know he is a busy man.

snowboarded wrote:

LaureltheQueen wrote:do you have the weekend off? come on! It can be a legacy working on day. Or call Tristan, he's got nothing to do on the weekends.

ummmm what she meant to say was I am sure he could arrange his schedule and clear out some lesser important events. You know he is a busy man.

Way to stick up for a brotherman.

Although, your context is a bit more correct; if I had the time and inclination, I would make the trip. I'd also need to know how to competantly replace CVs. . . . . . Which I don't.
Otherwise, MINE would be replaced by now. If you want to put something on your card, SuzieQ, I suggest putting the maintenance first, and dropping the $140 or so that it costs to do CVs at most shops. I suggest that mostly because I get the feeling the nearest Subaru junkyards would be in BF Idaho, or you'd have to buy a parts car from a guy wearing his bedsheets.

Axles are super easy, honest. You guys should throw an axle swapping party.

1) With the car on the ground, loosen all the hub nuts of the axles you are going to change. These are in the center of the lug star pattern. You will need a breaker bar and an extension to do this, mine was a 4' long pipe.

2) get the car up on jackstands. Only the side you are working on needs to be lifted.

3) Find the axle pin. It will be on the smallest diameter portion of the green part of the axle, near the differential/transmission. It goes all the way through the axle, so there are 2 places to find it. You will want to rotate the wheel so you have easy access to it.

4) Remove the pin. This is the tricky part. You need another pin of some sort of the exact same diameter to hammer on. A pick is no good, it will cause the axle pin (which is a rolled piece of sheetmetal) to spread and get more stuck. I used a drill bit. With the right size tool, this is easy, it is slightly easier if you use the side that has the divot around the pin.

5) remove the axle nut and pull the axle. The whole thing can compress. It is probably a bit easier to take the non-adjusting alignment bolt (the bottom one, iirc) out, so you have more wiggle room.

6) slide the new axle in, taking care to line up the holes so you can put the axle pin back. Reassemble.


I can take pictures of stuff if there is enough interest. I don't really want to though.

Okay, since I've been there and done PART of that, I can visualize what you're talking about. Not too bad, really. Like most things on this car, they're alot more involved in my mind, than what they are in reality. Damn internet thorazine drip.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... 0942885000

Scott - You can actually remove the axles without separating more suspension than that? I didn't try very hard before I just removed both strut-to-hub bolts, but it didn't seem like there was that much flex.

Tristan - Yeah, that happens to me too... I spend so much energy thinking and planning and worrying about jobs that turn out to be really easy.

So you don't have to pop out any ball-bearings or undo the strut tower?

I've done CV's on my old VW Bus, this was an easy job, only on the rear none of the other disconection stuff....

Does it matter which way you drive the pin out?

Always get a new axle nut?

Wheelbearings - My front driver's wheel is loose, but I don't have any wheel bearing noise. the wheel when off the ground can be wiggled in all directions except directly in and out...
What could this be since I would like to do this in one swoop if possible and not do CV's twice and mess with dirt in grease and potentially torn boots again...
both boots on that axle are torn, yeah loud clicking...

Thanks - Sorry for buttn' in.

Always get a new axle nut, and always use a new roll-pin. Well, that's the general idea, but I've reused plenty of roll pins without issue.

vrg- i removed just 1 strut-to-hub bolt and leaned on the wheel. The clearance is very tight, but it can be done. It's easier just to eyeball your camber and pull both bolts. You can also just do the LCA-to-hub nut, but i haven't used this method myself.

Busdriver- you do not need to remove the strut tower or ball bearings. You can drive the pin out either way, it's symmetrical. You're supposed to replace the axle nuts, but i didn't. They should come with new axles. I have jy axles right now with new boots (i was broke when i did them) and i reused the nut, and it seems fine.

To do the wheel bearing you will need to remove the hub from the car, so already having the strut and axle disconnected you're 2/3rds of the way there. The bearings need to be pressed in by a shop or Doug Vincent's l33t hammer skillz.

Busdriver wrote:So you don't have to pop out any ball-bearings or undo the strut tower?

I've done CV's on my old VW Bus, this was an easy job, only on the rear none of the other disconection stuff....

Does it matter which way you drive the pin out?

Always get a new axle nut?

Wheelbearings - My front driver's wheel is loose, but I don't have any wheel bearing noise. the wheel when off the ground can be wiggled in all directions except directly in and out...
What could this be since I would like to do this in one swoop if possible and not do CV's twice and mess with dirt in grease and potentially torn boots again...
both boots on that axle are torn, yeah loud clicking...

Thanks - Sorry for buttn' in.

Well, I suppose taking the strut out wouldn't be so bad.. I mean, it's only what --5-6 bolts anyway, and the whole shebang comes undone? Ball bearings? You lost me there.

As Scott said, you'll want to pop the pin out via the side that has a 'divot' in it.. makes it easier.

As for your wheel movement. . . I'm not sure about that, maybe someone else can ring in, but that doesn't sound like a wheelbearing thing, more like lugs or just the way your wheel is mounted. What about your strut tops, are they in good condition?

FWIW, there is a HUGE junkyard right next to I90 in spokanistan.

vrg3 wrote:http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... 0942885000

Tristan - Yeah, that happens to me too... I spend so much energy thinking and planning and worrying about jobs that turn out to be really easy.

I heard that. I am the king of overunsimplification, the word says it all.

scottzg wrote: The bearings need to be pressed in by a shop or Doug Vincent's l33t hammer skillz.

Psssshh.. Check these L33t HaMm4r 5Ki11Z:

What the hell am I looking at there???

yukonart trying to make a AWIC radiator fit in laurels car.

AAAAHHHHH!! I see it now!!

That be the bumper beam, and the flanges there, USED to be pointed inward --or rather-- outward, from that angle. No easy task, to be sure. Hehe, he did look pretty angry, I recall. Maybe it was a stress release thing. God, I love Arturo.

sorry guys! i just started school and i've been sick so that's why i haven't posted forever. thanks for the details on the process. and the junkyard next to I-90 is spaulding's and across from that pull-n-save. there's also a junkyard not so far from me called whitey's. but i went to all of them, and they had tons of subarus, but they were mostly newer (94+) and the older legs had already been gutted. just goes to show how tough our cars really are!

Suzie-Q wrote:sorry guys! i just started school and i've been sick so that's why i haven't posted forever. thanks for the details on the process. and the junkyard next to I-90 is spaulding's and across from that pull-n-save. there's also a junkyard not so far from me called whitey's. but i went to all of them, and they had tons of subarus, but they were mostly newer (94+) and the older legs had already been gutted. just goes to show how tough our cars really are!

Was it Captain Spauldings?

Who knows what my favorite movie is? mmmmmuuuahahhahahahah!!