Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 12:35 am
1) The point of the fender brace (cowl stay) is to triangulate the front end of the frame where the strut assembly exerts force, which is what the stock brace does as well (not all older Subies have the stock piece either). The extra mounting points of the GT piece (which ties the door hinges together) does virtually nothing. Go take a few strength of materials or structural design classes if you think otherwise. In addition, the GT brace has a BEND right in the middle of the active member - not good if you're looking for rigidity.
2) The statement "2 pointers...no better than the stock Sti ones" is correct - but the stock Sti pieces (solid Al billet) are far beyond the stock non-Sti pieces (formed mild steel). There are pics of ALL of these braces on nasioc.
3) to install - I pulled the fender 1/2 way off. That is unbolt the fasteners along the rail in the engine bay, the fender liner, and the top most door bolt iirc (but leave the rest of the door side attached). A ratcheting box wrench will make life easier, but not neccessary. really, it was about 1hr and I have never removed a fender in my life.
4) as I've stated - I could notice the braces and like them. It's not in-your-face, but noticeable. I did not regret the $100 outlay. If you can "feel" a good strut tower bar then you will know you have fender braces when you get them in.
As a side bonus I got to remove ~5lbs of shit that had collected behind the rear side of the fender liner in the process
sweeet, adding lightness! haha
I should really post the pics I took of the stock piece next to the TIC. Also TIC was a pleasure to deal with.
And yes, these are the same as the RS braces.
-Chad
2) The statement "2 pointers...no better than the stock Sti ones" is correct - but the stock Sti pieces (solid Al billet) are far beyond the stock non-Sti pieces (formed mild steel). There are pics of ALL of these braces on nasioc.
3) to install - I pulled the fender 1/2 way off. That is unbolt the fasteners along the rail in the engine bay, the fender liner, and the top most door bolt iirc (but leave the rest of the door side attached). A ratcheting box wrench will make life easier, but not neccessary. really, it was about 1hr and I have never removed a fender in my life.
4) as I've stated - I could notice the braces and like them. It's not in-your-face, but noticeable. I did not regret the $100 outlay. If you can "feel" a good strut tower bar then you will know you have fender braces when you get them in.
As a side bonus I got to remove ~5lbs of shit that had collected behind the rear side of the fender liner in the process
sweeet, adding lightness! hahaI should really post the pics I took of the stock piece next to the TIC. Also TIC was a pleasure to deal with.
And yes, these are the same as the RS braces.
-Chad