legacycentral bbs

okay. Just checking the basics..

94SS,

We are trying to determine if there are any stored codes. This is a swap, and he does not have the CEL hooked up, so he does not know if he has any stored codes, and if he has stored codes he has no way of viewing them until the CEL is hooked up.

okay

so i got in a couple hours on the brat tonite and figured out the CEL light and it gave 4 codes... damn rite.. i knew something just had to be funny.. started digging deep into the wires i already soldered and for some fd up reason 1 ground wire was cliped..

so now it runs much better and idles!! i excite!!

now the CEL is giving me 2 codes knock sensor and purge control it was kinda resitating when i hit the gas but if im gentle it revs fine weird!!!

thanks for the tip on the MIL!!!

Replace your knock sensor. The earlier style knock sensor cracks and goes bad very easily.

Yeah, the knock sensor problem will cause the ecu to limit spark advance which could be causing your stumble. You could temporarily run a resistor from the signal wire to ground for the short term. I can't remember the resistance off the top of my head, but I want to say something like 3k ohm. You should get a sensor eventually though, because in that situation the ECU cannot correct for engine ping.

it looks like its a bitch to get out...? im headed there now to play with it

It's only a bitch if it's now stuffed under the spare tire.

It won't be too bad.

Use a long extension to get at the bolt and what I did was put some rubber cement on the inside of the socket and let it dry up just a little bit. That way the bolt would stick to the socket when I pulled it up.

I did the same thing when I put it back in (just leave the bolt in the socket to dry even more after you take it out) and then once it was tightened down I just broke the bolt free of the glue.

Tape's another trick for that kind of a job - put bolt into socket, poke a hole in the middle of a length of tape to fit the bolt through, slide over bolt, and stick ends of tape to sides of socket. However, for this job, I just hold my hand along the side of the extension and keep the tip of my finger just holding the flared head in the socket.

lol ! yea it wasnt too bad.. just remove the spare tire and make sure uve got a magnet handy..

well i THINK ive got everything.. i found one more yellow red wire that wasnt connected.. prior to finding that wire it was running at about 1100rpm and i had adjusted the throttle all the way out..
and every time i dump the gas it would stumble.. like fuel cut..

once that wire was pluged in it was idling at like 600 rpm and started running smooth and i turned the throttle screw back to where it was before...

the thing is i had to go so i didnt get to cake it for a ride...

but im bout to head down ther and see...

what do you think about exhaust??? stright pipe no cats??

Awesome.

And definitely straight pipe with no cats. That's what I have except I did throw a resonator in there...

drove her home tonite..

still need to dial in a couple of things but she is running pretty damn good..
i borrowed the exhaust from hana since she doesnt have second and third gear at the moment and chopped off the muffler due to length.. NO CATS LOUD!

i better have some exhaust done with a muffler..

thanks for the help guys!! so far so good

next is FCD TDO5 FTMIC!

ok . . . . so after awhile of learning and playing with this car ive come to a point that im not sure how to get past..

code 12(start) and 51(neutral-inhibitor)

ive been starting the car with the orignal wire.. not the ECU

and since the wire harness has been cut down to just the engine wires i no longer have connectors for the orignal trans so im having a hard time following the auto to manual swap info..

so the question is . . how do i wire the neutral, park, start, jurisdiction wires?

any info helps!! thank you

I believe the start input to the ECU you just run a lead from the lead going to the starter to engage it....ie the "start" position coming from the ignition switch.

I would verify with the wiring diagrams...but I'm pretty sure that's all you need.

The neutral switch, you just need to wire one side of the switch to a switched 12v souce, and the other side to the neutral switch pin at the ECU.

The jurisdictional wire, you shouldn't have to do anything. The info I have says for 49 states & Canada there should be 12v (which means that pin is not grounded. For california, is should be 0v, which means the pin is grounded.