legacycentral bbs

Just one more thing to check...

... you haven't done any movie shoots recently right?

If so, I hope you didn't roll it over.

Subarus are known for their driveshafts falling out when the car rolls over.

lol.....no i havent.....

so you think if replace the center diff....this will correct the issue?

is it easy swap the center diff while the tranny in the car?

how can i tell if the center diff is shot when it is out of the car? and if a new one i get is good?

There's a method for testing the center diff on the car, I'm surprised no one brought it up yet (maybe we just thought you'd procrastinate getting a driveshaft in ).

I'll be honest I'm not 100% sure what the procedure is. I think you have to lift one end of the car and keep one end's wheels on the ground, then try to rotate both tires in the air in the same direction (friend required). I don't remember what the result are supposed to be exactly. For you, I expect it to bind and not turn, but I don't know to what degree this is acceptable.

Someone finish/correct this for me here.

while the car is on?? im so confuscious!

thanks guys for all your help! i need to work on this issue and the clutch slave cylinder and the car is ready for my wife for her school year.

is it easy to get off of the car, while the tranny is still on the car?

It can be done with the trans in the car. I haven't done one, but you just have to take the rear transfer case off.

Yes, there is a way to test it in the car, and I thought it had been posted previously on this forum, but I can't seem to find it... I'm a little fuzzy on the details too, but I believe it's something like rotate rear tires in the same direction as soul shinobi says, and watch for jumpyness or some other qualitative thing.

The diff can be swapped in the car. I have one that I have no need for, but I need confirmation that the center diff in the NA MT is the same as the turbo MT. I think they are, but I am not positive... anyone?

from this thread:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... entre+diff

theres only 2 types, phase I and phase II they different and only by years.
91-98 and 99+

are you in WA or another state?

I'm in NJ, haha. USPS priority flat rate box is ~$9 in that size, i think. I will dig the thing out and make sure its visually OK. The transmission it was removed from was working fine, I just wanted a few parts off the mainshaft for a rebuild I was doing. If it doesn't work, just let me know and I'll send your $ back, NQA.

A few things I'll add-

Driveshaft lengths are not dependant upon the model of the car (Impreza vs. Legacy). There are only two different length driveshafts. (length aside, there are other differences but that doesn't matter at this point).

Long - 5MT
Short - Auto/6MT

Center Diff replacement isn't too bad and can be done with the trans in the car. Skoobywrx posted the link to my How-To. It should explain everything.

Still pretty weird that half of the driveshaft was removed...

got a tranny time for the center swap

got it for a good deal! free!!! FTW

got the center diff removed today, after a day of autoX....so tired:







what is this junk?

not metal shavings looks like greasey rat poop!

The hell... Maybe it's the viscous fluid from the viscous coupling unit that bled out during extreme overheating? Just a guess.

That looks like the crap that came out of the center diff I replaced a few years ago. Is the actual viscous coupling purple or anything?

this is the one that came out of the replacement tranny that i got. not the one that came out of the car. how can i tell if its good or not? i spin the gears with my fingers and i dont feel anything binding or anything like that......hmm

should i find another? of just test this one out?

Test this one out. The oil balls can just be tranny oil slugging up.

oh, another thing...this tranny has been out of a car for quite some time so the tranny oil is old......maybe its just the ouul crappy oil

got the new installed.....too bad light and my energy ran out.....

will finish and test out tommorrow.

question: per the parts list do I leave the #35 part off?

doesnt seem right....

34 is a washer and 35 is a bearing. I think it all depends if the old bearing and washer are still afixed to the other part of the gearset (#2).

n2x4 wrote:34 is a washer and 35 is a bearing. I think it all depends if the old bearing and washer are still afixed to the other part of the gearset (#2).

makes sense now....thanks

ok definately not with the bearing.....tried it with the bearing and some nasty sounds coming from it. trying it with the just the washer....hope it works!

installed it sans #35, since mine didnt have it installed...used the same #34 washer......
test drove it, did some cirlces both directions....seems fine.....
but now i get a while?!

A whine? I'd doublecheck the meshing of the transfer gears. They might not be together correctly.

Maybe that's another reason the driveshaft was removed?

How bad/where is the whine?

whine seems to coming from underneath the car....im assuming the transmisson. i cant pinpoint the area right now.

one observation: the sound increases in pitch as the the speed goes up. no change in sound or pitch if a gear changes. even at neutral coasting the sound is there.

sounds like if the car is on a dyno......like a really loud tires...increase in pitch and sound as you go faster....WTF?!