wheel bearing write up
Posted: Sat Jun 01, 2002 9:43 am
here ya go!
first obviously raise the rear of the car and put it on jackstands. the way to findout if your bearings are bad is simple. first, spin the wheel, any grinding noise? second grab the top and bottom of the wheel and give it some hard shakes, a good wheel bearing should allow no lateral movement and no grinding sound.
steps to removal: first, remove the wheel, and unstake the wheel nut in the hub. use a punch to get it loose. Then put the wheel(s) back on and lower the car back down if you dont have an impact air wrench. with the wheels on the ground remove the wheel nut and raise the car back up and put it on stands again. remove the brake caliper (suspend with a coat hanger out of the way) and the caliper mount, called the "bridge". then remove the brake disc. after all that, remove the two bolts holding the strut on, the LONG bolt and nut and the short bolt that holds the trailing arm. the whole knuckle/hub assy should slide off into your hands with not too much drama.
dissassembly: FOR THIS WHLOE PROCESS YOU WILL NEED A PRESS, HYDROLIC OR MANUAL. hopefully you arent reading this while you are doing it.... GRRR. first press out the hub with the spline in it... thats the part that the disc and wheel attach too. this whole time you will have to get creative with how to support and press at the same time. now you can see all the seals you need to remove, hopefully you have gotten all 3 and the bearing ahead of time. if not it is helpful when you do get them to compare to the old ones, so either way is ok in my book.the inside (facing towards the rear diff) has two seals, one dust seal, and one oil seal. the dust seal is closer to the diff and has a lip to it. the lip should be facing IN TOWARDS THE DIFFERENTIAL, if it faces towards the wheel or is torn, etc, theres your problem. remember to aim it right when you reinstall it. under the oil seal you will find (once you clean all the crap o
re-assembly: first remove that little "keeper" that the bearing is shipped with, but dont loose it. the bearing should come apart into 3 pieces. clean out all the shipping lightweight grease, repack with wheel bearing greese and reassemble with the little keeper. now press it into the knuckle (easy to say, but takes some work!). make sure its totally seated and make sure you mainly press on the outside of the bearing (race) when pressing. once that is seated install your snap ring (good way to tell the bearing is seated, snap ring goes in!). and load up the seals with grease. dont install the dust seal until everything is pressed in so you dont ruin anything. then flip ove rthe assembly and press the hub into the knuckle and seat that all the way down. lastly install that dust seal FACING TOWARD THE DIFF lip out.. and reinstall on the car. spin the wheel nut down, install all bolts, and put the wh
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first obviously raise the rear of the car and put it on jackstands. the way to findout if your bearings are bad is simple. first, spin the wheel, any grinding noise? second grab the top and bottom of the wheel and give it some hard shakes, a good wheel bearing should allow no lateral movement and no grinding sound.
steps to removal: first, remove the wheel, and unstake the wheel nut in the hub. use a punch to get it loose. Then put the wheel(s) back on and lower the car back down if you dont have an impact air wrench. with the wheels on the ground remove the wheel nut and raise the car back up and put it on stands again. remove the brake caliper (suspend with a coat hanger out of the way) and the caliper mount, called the "bridge". then remove the brake disc. after all that, remove the two bolts holding the strut on, the LONG bolt and nut and the short bolt that holds the trailing arm. the whole knuckle/hub assy should slide off into your hands with not too much drama.
dissassembly: FOR THIS WHLOE PROCESS YOU WILL NEED A PRESS, HYDROLIC OR MANUAL. hopefully you arent reading this while you are doing it.... GRRR. first press out the hub with the spline in it... thats the part that the disc and wheel attach too. this whole time you will have to get creative with how to support and press at the same time. now you can see all the seals you need to remove, hopefully you have gotten all 3 and the bearing ahead of time. if not it is helpful when you do get them to compare to the old ones, so either way is ok in my book.the inside (facing towards the rear diff) has two seals, one dust seal, and one oil seal. the dust seal is closer to the diff and has a lip to it. the lip should be facing IN TOWARDS THE DIFFERENTIAL, if it faces towards the wheel or is torn, etc, theres your problem. remember to aim it right when you reinstall it. under the oil seal you will find (once you clean all the crap o
re-assembly: first remove that little "keeper" that the bearing is shipped with, but dont loose it. the bearing should come apart into 3 pieces. clean out all the shipping lightweight grease, repack with wheel bearing greese and reassemble with the little keeper. now press it into the knuckle (easy to say, but takes some work!). make sure its totally seated and make sure you mainly press on the outside of the bearing (race) when pressing. once that is seated install your snap ring (good way to tell the bearing is seated, snap ring goes in!). and load up the seals with grease. dont install the dust seal until everything is pressed in so you dont ruin anything. then flip ove rthe assembly and press the hub into the knuckle and seat that all the way down. lastly install that dust seal FACING TOWARD THE DIFF lip out.. and reinstall on the car. spin the wheel nut down, install all bolts, and put the wh
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<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=213858 ... =947487281>
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
zZz <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .