The day has arrived...(long)
Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2002 2:38 am
So, turns out I did have spark in my #1 cylinder... but my injector went south. $240 later, she's all fixed up. By the way, if you live in the Puget Sound (Washington state if anyone is wondering) and you are within reasonable distance to Lake Forest Park - Smart Service Subaru (www.smartservice4u.com) is the way to go, and they are MRT certified now. Thanks again Mike! <end plug>
But... I have a new, and much more interesting dilemma...
For some time now I've known that my driving style is incompatible with the standard brake system on the first gen Legacy. As if that wasn't bad enough, I drive a wagon (extra weight) and hence, I have never owned a legacy I haven't warped the rotors on.
AND to top that, it's time for new struts. YUMMY! (can you say DMS? Knew you could...)
Smart Service informed me my pads are looking thin (25% up front, 30% in the rear) and I ought to think about getting them "done".
I've been waiting for this day since I've owned the car.
I have a new set of wheels I'm ready to get mounted (off an outback), I have a tire picked out: Kumho Ecsta 712 (but I don't know what size I want, and yes, I know it's the same rubber Dave has). They're my front running choice because Dave's review was so favorable - however I'm open to other people's opinions(??). Otherwise I'm satisfied with being labeled a copy-cat. Sue me. And FINALLY I can upgrade my brake system - which is what this e-mail is all about: What should I get?
The rims will accept almost anything, including 4pots but I'm not sure if I want to go that far - but since I can't find an accurate price anywhere on the web; can someone tell me how much they cost? If you know the answer to that, hold on to it and keep reading...
Jason G. told me (BTW, thanks again Jason for the 411 and the rims) that the best brake you can put on the rear is the 90-94 vented discs off the turbos, then upgrade the pads. Bam! 1/2 of the car is figured out - right? Those are the biggest/best for the rear ever made correct? But the real issue is what should I balance them with up front...
Everyone I talk to tells me the 4 pots are expensive, but no one can quote me a price either. Those same people will tell me in the one breath how phenomenal they are too. So naturally, it makes you want to look into getting them...but....
I know for sure I don't want x-drilled OR slotted. I just don't drive that hard for extended periods of time to where I need to defend against the pad glazing over, etc... And, I drive a white car. I'm not real hyper about washing the car, but let's face it - no one likes to have a car that looks like it just drove through a brake dust tornado. It's not like there's a formula that says if you have 4pots you have to have slotted/x-drilled brakes... Well, just follow me through my next point with that in mind K? On we go...
So, then should I just get the biggest vented stock rotor made and just upgrade my pads? Or is there something between a 4 pot/larger, vented rotor and stock pots/larger vented rotor? (I'm assuming upgraded pads AND stainless lines on both setups are a given). AND most importantly, is it worth it? What's the bang-for-buck scale on the different choices? If I'm not on the tracks every month, or chasing Jason around in the mud (meaning: I'm an aggressive driver going to the grocery store), does that automatically mean I should forget about the 4 pots? One other question: what about balance? If I'm gripping proportionally much harder up front than in the back by adding a larger rotor and additional pressure (proportionally speaking), how will that change the handling characteristics under braking?
BTW, I've read a million posts about how brakes don't make a bit of difference until you've reached the grip limit of the tires etc. I'm hoping to avoid that flame war... I am putting new rubber on. I'm not squealing my rubber at every stop sign so what everyone says about 99% of the drivers are never crossing the grip limit of the whole system prolly applies to me too. So I'll say it's a valid part of the overall picture so maybe worth discussing on a limited basis...
Last component of this question: Pads. Too close to stock and they heat up too quickly, henceforth contributing to conditions that produce warped rotors. Too close to performance and they generate a lot of dust and can be dangerous when braking when cold because the performance pads are designed to operate best under frequent load, which generates heat... Or are pads like tires, you just have to go through a few of them to know what you like, and figure out what matches your driving style best?
Holler back!
-Sambo
'91Auto-Wagon, 2.2L with warped rotors...
(I love ellipses, can you tell?)
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But... I have a new, and much more interesting dilemma...
For some time now I've known that my driving style is incompatible with the standard brake system on the first gen Legacy. As if that wasn't bad enough, I drive a wagon (extra weight) and hence, I have never owned a legacy I haven't warped the rotors on.
AND to top that, it's time for new struts. YUMMY! (can you say DMS? Knew you could...)
Smart Service informed me my pads are looking thin (25% up front, 30% in the rear) and I ought to think about getting them "done".
I've been waiting for this day since I've owned the car.
I have a new set of wheels I'm ready to get mounted (off an outback), I have a tire picked out: Kumho Ecsta 712 (but I don't know what size I want, and yes, I know it's the same rubber Dave has). They're my front running choice because Dave's review was so favorable - however I'm open to other people's opinions(??). Otherwise I'm satisfied with being labeled a copy-cat. Sue me. And FINALLY I can upgrade my brake system - which is what this e-mail is all about: What should I get?
The rims will accept almost anything, including 4pots but I'm not sure if I want to go that far - but since I can't find an accurate price anywhere on the web; can someone tell me how much they cost? If you know the answer to that, hold on to it and keep reading...
Jason G. told me (BTW, thanks again Jason for the 411 and the rims) that the best brake you can put on the rear is the 90-94 vented discs off the turbos, then upgrade the pads. Bam! 1/2 of the car is figured out - right? Those are the biggest/best for the rear ever made correct? But the real issue is what should I balance them with up front...
Everyone I talk to tells me the 4 pots are expensive, but no one can quote me a price either. Those same people will tell me in the one breath how phenomenal they are too. So naturally, it makes you want to look into getting them...but....
I know for sure I don't want x-drilled OR slotted. I just don't drive that hard for extended periods of time to where I need to defend against the pad glazing over, etc... And, I drive a white car. I'm not real hyper about washing the car, but let's face it - no one likes to have a car that looks like it just drove through a brake dust tornado. It's not like there's a formula that says if you have 4pots you have to have slotted/x-drilled brakes... Well, just follow me through my next point with that in mind K? On we go...
So, then should I just get the biggest vented stock rotor made and just upgrade my pads? Or is there something between a 4 pot/larger, vented rotor and stock pots/larger vented rotor? (I'm assuming upgraded pads AND stainless lines on both setups are a given). AND most importantly, is it worth it? What's the bang-for-buck scale on the different choices? If I'm not on the tracks every month, or chasing Jason around in the mud (meaning: I'm an aggressive driver going to the grocery store), does that automatically mean I should forget about the 4 pots? One other question: what about balance? If I'm gripping proportionally much harder up front than in the back by adding a larger rotor and additional pressure (proportionally speaking), how will that change the handling characteristics under braking?
BTW, I've read a million posts about how brakes don't make a bit of difference until you've reached the grip limit of the tires etc. I'm hoping to avoid that flame war... I am putting new rubber on. I'm not squealing my rubber at every stop sign so what everyone says about 99% of the drivers are never crossing the grip limit of the whole system prolly applies to me too. So I'll say it's a valid part of the overall picture so maybe worth discussing on a limited basis...
Last component of this question: Pads. Too close to stock and they heat up too quickly, henceforth contributing to conditions that produce warped rotors. Too close to performance and they generate a lot of dust and can be dangerous when braking when cold because the performance pads are designed to operate best under frequent load, which generates heat... Or are pads like tires, you just have to go through a few of them to know what you like, and figure out what matches your driving style best?
Holler back!
-Sambo
'91Auto-Wagon, 2.2L with warped rotors...
(I love ellipses, can you tell?)
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=226014.2032696.35 ... 000239/R=1>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=226014 ... =538736069>
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
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