legacycentral bbs

I took the time to install it with the proper wirings this evening, and it works damn great !

i'll now enter the "tuning" process.. and see how everything goes.



anybody interested in a low cost ebc fcd safc ?

Morgie you are amazing...maybe we need to come up with some kinda o' nickname for ya like morgie the magician! It is so very cool that you can build stuff like this, I'm so jealous. Anyways, I'd definately be interested in this! So tell us, what did you set your boost and fuel cut at? And forget this if its earlier in the thread, but hows the SAFC work? are there settings every so many rpm that create a curve? I also take this to mean you got a list of our factory ecu wiring...I guess my factory manuals probably have it, just havn't looked! Well keep us updated with how your tuning goes, you are da man!
Thanks
Micum

VERY INTERESTED!!

Very nice Morgie. good Job.I'm intersted as hell in this contraption

Mark,

Yeah, Morgie, it sounds cool... Can you post more info about how it actually works?

I've posted plans for a really ghetto EBC and what I think will be in some sense an optimal FCD (that's also cheap), and I have a plan for a cheap AFC too; I'm just wondering how the circuit you built works.

My idea for the AFC involved an LM2907 frequency-to-voltage converter reading the engine speed and converting it to a voltage that feeds into an LM3914 dot/bargraph driver. The outputs of the 3914 (after being inverted with some 7404s) would control a bunch of 4016 analog switches, each of which is fed in the MAF voltage going through a linear amplifier whose gain is controlled with a potentiometer. The output of all the switches would then be fed to the ECU as the MAF signal. That would give you 10 RPM ranges in which to adjust the MAF signal, and shouldn't cost more than around $30-$40 US.

vrg3 wrote:and shouldn't cost more than around $30-$40 US.

i'm sold.

MK

mk750 wrote:

vrg3 wrote:and shouldn't cost more than around $30-$40 US.

i'm sold. :D

MK

Heh... Give me some time to actually build one first. :)

Lousy work and school and all my other commitments.

This sounds extremely exciting! I'm sure we're all pretty interested though.

-Brian

Thanks all, but the credits bellongs to the french guy who made the plans, i only built the kit and "found" the wires to use on the ecu. I only have minimum electronics knowledge

tonight i'll try to solve a problem i have with the boost (boost falls from 12psi to 5psi a 5500rpm ). But despite that, the car feels a lot stronger than before.


Vrg3 & Czo79 : The Safc works with 8 ranges. in the initial config, you set the 'Center RPM' (for WRX : 3600rpm), wich will split the 8 pots. 3600 / 4 = 900. Each Potentiometer (?) is used for a 900rpm range.

#1 : 0-900rpm
#2 : 900-1800rpm
#3 : 1800-2700rpm
...
#8 : 6300-7200rpm.

On mine, i setted the middle-point a 3300rpm, so each range is 825rpm wide.


For the electronics, i don't remember exactly what is involved exactly, but i remember that there is a ADC wich selects wich pot. to use,.. there is also a TLC0820, but i'll have to check this evening.


the boost control has 2 settings : SpoolUp PSI and Stabilised PSI.
let say you want 12psi, you set the SpoolUp PSI a 11psi , and stabilisez psi at 12psi. that way, your boost raise quickly to 11psi, then raise and stabilise at 12psi.



The estimated cost for each of these units will be around 125-150$USD, (~175-200$CAN) (depending on the prices of the parts, i may be able to find better prices...) all assembled, and basic setup done.


also, since it's a cheap home-made product, you'll have to cut wires on your ecu plug to install it ... hope you're not affraid of that

Interesting... the TLC0820 is the ADC I was thinking of using at first. I decided it would be cheaper to just use the LM3914 and as a bonus it would give you ten RPM ranges rather than 8. Its outputs are decoded, though, so that's why the analog switches. I would imagine the board you've built has an analog multiplexer.

Is there a web page where the design is documented or anything? I can't read French but I can pump it through Babelfish. :)

the 2 converters used are TLC0820 and ADC428

saddly, there is no doc at all about that board, except the installation procedures and setup.

I am also interesting on the unit, but I already have the AVC-R installed, will your unit could use with AVC-R?
Or have to take my AVC-R out for your unit?
Do you have the pics of the unit?

Its good that there are someone who still working parts on our 1st Gen. Legacy turbo!

Ben

Ej22t : I presume you could simply not-plug the soleno control. in my module and you could keep your AVCR. but the "Bang for the buck" factor of my unit will be less attractive ! hehe



I'm still working on the problems i am experiencing with the module... after some testings, i discovered that our Pressure sensor is different that the GT / WRX sensor, so voltages are differents. I talked about that with the designer of the board, and I have some modifications to do on the desing and circuits...

I'll do them this evening... I can't wait to see the results!!! hehe


- To be continued -

One of 2 problem solved :

the Legacy TPS goes from 5v to 0v (WOT = 0v) ..... the Euro WRX/GT/STI goes from 0v to 5v (WOT = 5v) ... that alone was causing a lot of boost problem (pressure loss at high-rpm / WOT) ... now is fixed ... so i'll tune that and see how it behaves.

The FCD however seems not to be working will have to investigate on that..

Resurrecting this thread from the dead..


Did anyone do anything further with the info in this thread?

morgie wrote:One of 2 problem solved :

the Legacy TPS goes from 5v to 0v (WOT = 0v) ..... the Euro WRX/GT/STI goes from 0v to 5v (WOT = 5v) ... that alone was causing a lot of boost problem (pressure loss at high-rpm / WOT) ... now is fixed ... so i'll tune that and see how it behaves.

The FCD however seems not to be working will have to investigate on that..

oh how did you fix this? is this just the swapping of the power and ground wires?