legacycentral bbs

any body put new pulleys on? which is best and with how much gain?

I've put on a GFB pulley set, (crank, alternator, and power steering).

I definitely noticed increased acceleration across the board. No issues w/ less power from the alternator, all the pulleys are smaller so everyhting still pretty much spins the same as before.

The only problem I ran into was the number of splines on the power steering pulley. It didn't match the pump i have, but i corrected by installing a pump from a 98rs

MK

I got the subesports pulley. Lightened.

Later subarus use a thicker pulley. The timing marks are also not the same. The later pulleys will fit just fine, the bolt isnt going to touch the crank though. You should also remark the timing.
I dont like underdriven pulleys.

Ciper, I don't understand what you are saying about the bolt. Anyways, where did you get the subesports pulleys? Phone # or website? I second the thought on underdriving, power gains are miniscule from the actual underdriving and potentially hurt performance (messing with your alternator amperage and all). Having lighter pulleys is the key.

Is it true that you shouldn't have a lighter flywheel & crank pulley? Thought I read somewhere about that not being a good idea...

ya i've heard that also.I've also heard it's ok though so i'm pretty confused on the subject.just to clerify,does underdriven mean smaller around then stock?

It means making certain pulleys turn slower. This can be done by making different pulleys bigger OR smaller. Think of a 21 speed bike and how the diameter changes in the front and back. You can get close to the same ratio with different combinations. Most try to get the crankshaft pulley turning slower IIRC and others also have the alternator turn slower also because these two use up the most horsepower to accelerate them.

Brat4by4: The PULLEY is thicker on the later models, so the bolt head used to touch the crank itself, now you have an air gap.

Subesports is out of business, I got the pulley used on nasioc

Just get a full set and you don't have to worry about underdriving

MK

Hey, I got a lightened alternator pulley but I cant figure out how to loosen the nut. Surprisingly I have the correct size socket!!! (32mm if I remember right).

The PS pump and Alt pulley are pretty small to begin with, how much do the full set of lightened pulleys cost?

If i remember correctly to get the alternator pulley out i had to keep the belt on.. or I might have used a pair if large visegrips to clamp it down too (been awhile )

The GFB PS pulley i have fits loosely inside of the stock PS pulley, the alternator pulle yis maybe a few mm smaller.

I picked my set up off NASIOC (i-club back then actually) for $150

MK

That alternator pulley is the biggest pain in the ass to get off. We used a heavy duty chain wrench on the pulley, buggered it up pretty good, then used a 1/2" breaker bar with a good 3 ft cheater bar on it, and we still had to reef on that thing.

If you got an impact wrench, I highly suggest you use it, or if you can take the alternator to a shop that has one, it may be worth giving them a couple bucks to take the old pulley off and put the new one on.

My recommendation is just to get the crank and PS pulleys LIGHTENED and not underdrived. Especially if you are running high end stereo equip. You can find 'em on Ebay for bout 150 USD. Usualy in your choice of color(blue red silver or black). Perrin also makes a damn strong LIGHTENED Crank pully. It runs about 120 USD. Most pully systems made for an EJ engine will fit all EJ's.

http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/motor.htm

Teague's auto has the fullset, but chances are you will need teh newer pump.

MK

If your looking for more power, the power per $ ratio is really low for pulleys. If you want an engine that revs faster, they will do the trick. Removing the AC is a really good option because it's cheap plus you get some more weight loss of the front end. The power gain is easily found from calculations and is more accurate then a dyno test in many ways, and it turns out the power gain is low in reality. The perceived power gain is high though. A faster revving engine can be funner. Turbo guys may want to question if it's a good idea to have the engines rpms drop faster between shifts.