legacycentral bbs

I have a cv boot that is still intact, but all the grease seems to be leaking out. It's been this way more than a year. I'm gonna play with it this afternoon, see if maybe that metal band is loose. Do you think that joint should be cleaned and repacked with grease?

If it's leaking, there's gotta be a tear or some other structural problem. In my opinion, there are two appropriate ways to deal with a torn CV boot:

1) Get a remanufactured axle and swap it in. http://www.cvaxles.com/ is recommended by many members and a remanufactured axle from them only costs around $55. That way you don't have to worry about the damage that's already occured to your joint.

1) Get a really cheap split-boot that can be installed without even removing the axle. This is a 15-minute job: you remove the old boot and clamps, spray it all out with brake cleaner, pack new grease all around it, put the boot on and pack more grease in, put in the nuts and bolts that hold the boot together, and put the metal clamps on each end. This is a hack job, but takes much less effort than option #1 and will hold long enough for you to save up the money and find the time to do option #1.

It just seems like if you're going to the effort of removing the axle, and a newly remanufactured one is so cheap, you may as well replace it.

I say leave the axle be. Let it tear itselft to shreds and wait until you can do option number one in VRG3 post.

Whenever the joint area is contaminated you might as well write the axle off. Dirt will increase the wear of the joint quite a bit.

thanks for the suggestions. looks like i have a leaky seal where the right axle meets the transmission (I had the transmission over-filler for like a year cause i'm retarded) and I need a new clutch. So maybe i'll just wait, replace those seals and o-rings on the transmission when i put in a new clutch, and do what needs to be done to the cv axles at the same time. It's gonna be fun. Anybody done a clutch job? I saw on some other threads where people had to remove the engine? Hope that isn't the case for me. Anybody have a suggestion for a performance clutch for an NA?

You guys are the greatest! and girls

Definitely do what the others said about replacing the whole axle with a rebuilt unit from www.cvaxles.com as I've done plenty of business with them already and am quite pleased.

As for the axle seal in the transmission that you speak of, take the tranny somewhere and have that done. I tried doing it myself and screwed it up, and I learned from the dealer that it's MUCH harder than I thought. I think he said something like you hafta take the bearing retainer out and hold the tranny stub while you're doing it. If you drop it, the diff will fall out of mesh with the gearbox and you hafta take the tranny out and separate the casing and put it back together. Don't hold me to that, as it's completely from memory, a memory I'd like to forget entirely

I will hafta drop my tranny soon to reattach the clutch fork to the throwout bearing, as it seems to be wobbling... Won't remove the clutch assembly though...

michael,

Why again did you mess with the axle seals?

Were the old ones leaking? I just pulled the old axles out and put the new ones in on my car.....

I heard the same thing about that seal. But i think if you just do the seal and not the O ring behind it, then you don't have that issue with the diff. But realisticly, if i decide to try and do the clutch, then I'd prolly just take the transmission in and have them do all those seals and o rings. I think it was prolly leaking cause it was too full, i fixed that problem, i'm gonna wait and see if it still leaks. I'll prolly wait and do the whole thing a bit later - when i have money. anybody know a good performance clutch for an NA?

Legacy777 wrote:michael,

Why again did you mess with the axle seals?

Were the old ones leaking? I just pulled the old axles out and put the new ones in on my car.....

Because I'm stupid and thought that since I had the axle off, I should replace them

That was a $450 lesson that I will never forget

That sucks

ciper wrote:I say leave the axle be. Let it tear itselft to shreds and wait until you can do option number one in VRG3 post.

Whenever the joint area is contaminated you might as well write the axle off. Dirt will increase the wear of the joint quite a bit.

I've been driving around on a totally dry driver's side outer cv for about 3 months now. After some serious snow driving and some good puddle splashing it was getting bad. I then proceeded to drive about 3000 miles over the course of a week (Denver-Wyoming-Montana-Wyoming-Colorado-Wyo-Colorado) and on my way home tonight it was getting really bad. I've had the reman. axle in the trunk and all the tools needed with me the whole time. I almost had to change it on the side of the highway in Wyoming this afternoon but managed to limp it home and am going to change it tomorrow. Anyhow, I wish I would have done it sooner so my recommendation is to drive on it until it causes a problem (or starts clicking alot) then replace it. Autozone is where I buy mine. About $60 and have a lifetime warranty and there's alot of autozones out there. Oh yeah, I also just passed 200K and 203K miles this last week!

I've heard several people descibe the sound of a worn out cv axle as a clicking. I have been hearing a clicking sound on occation, mostly just before coming to a stop. Seems like i hear it mostly when i have to stop hard for a light. I'm wondering if that cv joint with the leaky boot could be going already. that boot has been leaking over a year, but it looks fine, that metal ring at the end must be loose. should probably order some of those guys from cvaxles.com. does anybody know if they charge a core deposit?

I deffinately know the sounds of CV joints that are bad,

A clicking or knocking, in the front it's way more noticable under hard corner acceleration

My old Tercels used to go through them every 6 months or so. badly designed 3 bearing joints.

yes cvaxles.com charges you a core. You don't get the actual charge until like a month later....that is assuming you don't send them back. Sending them fedex ground was like 13 bucks....I think......it wasn't bad.

I'm special... I never paid a core charge... they waived it on the assumption that I would give them my old cores...

what about factory remans from subaruparts.com , anybody try those? their price is only 106