I know it's been asked a thousand times, but, i need help

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 5:51 am

i can't find any of the thread about everything needed for a na to turbo swap.

What parts will fit from my stock engine, and what do i need from the turboed car. I got this email back from the guy that I'm probably gonna buy the motor from
"It will come with a intake but if your car is not turbo you will need x
member wiring and all parts. I have all but some of the plastic pieces are
broken. Like vacumn tees and radiator fill tank. Your best bet is to call
and lets talk."

what do i absolutely need for the swap, and shoudl get with the motor?

Also, i hear the 91's had oil coolers, did the NA's have them as well, if so, can i transfer it to the turbo motor?

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 6:39 am

Only '91 turbos have oil coolers. It's tough to say exactly what you need without knowing exactly what you have. Cross member, exhaust, intake piping, pressure sensor on the strut tower at least... Does it have the sensors? I would assume it would, so what about the harness? Fuel injectors? Mine came with injectors, intake, uncut engine harness, exhaust, turbo.

Steve

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 6:59 am

The radiator fill tank will cost you around $140 new. If he has a used one, grab it. Mine busted yesterday as I was prepping my recently sold turbo Legacy for delivery. I have contacted most every salvage yard in the Denver metro area and there are no used fill tanks/overflows.

I go first thing in the morning to Super Rupair to pick up a new one and install it. Sorry to ramble on and vent...Back to your needs. I would say pick up that package of goodies FS on NASIOC. It is linked in our classifieds. And my offer still stands.

mTk · Post by **mTk** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 11:42 am

the engine wiring is the same as n/a. the boost control will need custom wiring (6 wires total?)

that's about the only wiring you need.

MK

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 5:53 pm

do i need a turbo ECU? I know like, nothing about engines. sorry guys.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Feb 12, 2004 6:03 pm

Yes. You need a turbo ECU, unless you're gonna use an aftermarket ECU that will involve lots of tuning.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Fri Feb 13, 2004 12:00 am

alrighty. guy's got everything that's needed, except the radiator fill tank, and 3 plastic t's. I have no clue what the 3 plastic t's are, but he said they're about $30 apiece.

Does this sound like a decent deal, if i can find the extras at a local junkyard, and pay for them seperately?

He said he pulled the engine for his son who was going to do the exact same swap as me (91) but changed his mind, and since then, they've pulled the plastic t's and overflow tank off...

whaddaya guys think?

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Fri Feb 13, 2004 12:03 am

sounds hot if it does include everything except the fill tank and t's They could just be part of the pcv system or something. good luck

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Fri Feb 13, 2004 12:03 am

I don't know what tees he might be talking about either... Can you get some clarification? If they're just some kind of tee you ought to be able to just get some from the hardware store or something.

You might be able to buy masiolli's radiator fill tank if he hasn't sold it yet.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Fri Feb 13, 2004 11:54 pm

okay... it's vacuum t's.

wtf are those?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 12:28 am

Hmm... All I can think of are 1) the auxiliary canister purge valve and 2) the tee that splits the line coming from the manifold to go to aforementioned valve and the pressure exchange solenoid.

They are to the left of and below the circle in this picture:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics ... ge_tap.jpg

The tee can be replaced with any old tee found at an auto parts or hardware store. I think 1/8" ought to be right.

The auxiliary purge valve is part number 42084GA460... it lists for like 80 bucks. :(

I think it just allows fumes from the canister to the intake tubing only when the engine's under boost. If you keep your stock canister you could probably get away without it. Maybe you'd want a check valve in the main purge line.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 12:50 am

he said the THREE plastic t's are gone, and they're $30 apiece, so i'm assuming they're all the same thing...

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 1:02 am

In that case I have absolutely no idea what he's talking about. I'm fairly familiar with the vacuum lines on EJ22Ts and I can't think of anything else that could be thought to be a "tee," and certainly no three identical ones that would cost $30.

Unless my brain's on vacation...

Or maybe he's talking about the plastic PCV pipes. They're kind of like big weird-shaped tees.

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 1:08 am

The coolant tank specific to the turbo engines is called an EXPANSION TANK

Ask him if he is referring to the part that attaches to the radiator or the tank sitting on top of the engine.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 1:25 am

ciper wrote:The coolant tank specific to the turbo engines is called an EXPANSION TANK

Where are you getting that?

The overflow tank on most engines is often called the "expansion tank," since that's where the coolant goes when it expands beyond the capacity of the rest of the system.

The factory service manual calls the turbo-specific tank the "filler tank." It just calls the other one the "reservoir tank."

But in any case, ciper's right that you can't rely on correct terminology when dealing with junkers (or dealers or auto parts stores for that matter) -- find out which tank exactly he's talking about.

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 1:42 am

Now that I need to find it I cant, maybe I was wrong?

I do know its part 21132AA010, it has a radiator cap on it (as opposed to a yellow plastic snap lid),has three hoses coming out and is black (instead of clear).

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 5:10 am

ciper wrote:Now that I need to find it I cant, maybe I was wrong?

I do know its part 21132AA010, it has a radiator cap on it (as opposed to a yellow plastic snap lid),has three hoses coming out and is black (instead of clear).

Yes,
it is the tank I had to spend $125 on this week because it ruptured right as I went to sell my car.

From what I have been told several places this is one of the achilles heels of the EJ22's. Our engines just run real hot and that plastic tank gets beat to hell. The two "good" lines snapped off when I removed it and had to have the particles fished out with needle nose pliers. If this masiolli guys tank is good, someone should jump on it if laurel isn't going to. I don't know what the FSM calls it, but I call it the overflow tank, and it does have a radiator cap on it. The fill tank is a white plastic tank up near the radiator with max and min markers and a straw coming out the top in case the car overheats and truly overflows...
I pitched my reciept, or I would verify the part number for you.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 5:19 am

Matt - Yup, it's a weak point. The plastic heat-cycles and becomes incredibly brittle. It's just the nipples that break, though; the body is really tough. I cut an old one apart and it was harder than I expected.

I don't know what the FSM calls it, but I call it the overflow tank, and it does have a radiator cap on it. The fill tank is a white plastic tank up near the radiator with max and min markers and a straw coming out the top in case the car overheats and truly overflows...

Hehehe... you're using the names backwards.

Anyway, I'll confirm ciper's part number; he's got it right. List price is around $130.

Laurel, you should know that it's possible to just not use that tank if you use your stock radiator. You just route the hose from the water pump directly to the turbo. You lose the cool Subaru convection-current cooling mechanism, so you'll want to be a little more diligent about idling after driving on boost, but it'll work fine. And later when you want to, you can upgrade to a turbo radiator and filler tank.

That's how subiekid's car is set up.

legacy92ej22t · Post by **legacy92ej22t** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 6:35 am

vrg3 wrote:Matt - Yup, it's a weak point. The plastic heat-cycles and becomes incredibly brittle. It's just the nipples that break, though; the body is really tough. I cut an old one apart and it was harder than I expected.

Ok, I'll let you guys in on the $2.99 fix.

I had one of my nipples break off (that sounds bad) and what my friend and I did to fix it was this. We broke off the remaining brittle plastic where the nipple used to be and sanded it flush with the outside of the tank.

We then took a coat hanger and went in through the cap and fished it out the hole where the nipple used to be. Then we took a hollow piece of all thread that was about the same diameter as the hole and put a rubber washer, flat washer and back-up nut on the side that would stay in the tank. Then we fished it through to the hole using the hanger to guide it. Once we got it near the hole I used some needle nose to work it through the hole ( I used them on the inside of the all thread by opening them up to hold the all thread and guide it through). Then we put another rubber washer, flat washer and nut on the outside and tightened it down.

Now because the outside diameter of the nipple was larger then the inside diameter of the nipple, the all thread had a smaller outside diameter then the old nipple. This caused it to be a little too small for the stock coolant line. What we did was take a smaller hose, cut it to the length of the all thread that was on the outside of the tank and slid it on. Then we slid the coolant line over the all thread with the smaller hose as a gasket and tightened it down.

The whole job took 2 of us about 1.5 hrs. A lot of that was trial and error though. I could probably do it again in about 45 min..

I've driven all winter and about 6k miles like this without a single drip of coolant lost. It's also the line that my Saab intercooler puts pressure on, so it's nice and strong.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 7:15 am

Sounds like a good idea. I wonder if I should do this as a preventive measure before I drop themotor in.

A guy I knew ripped his nipple off when he was drunk (he had a safety pin through it that he placed there when he was previously drunk). Just like on the Legacy tank, nipples don't grow back (or at least not quickly).

Steve

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 7:21 am

Since you have the opportunity, Steve, I think you should try to adapt an all-aluminum WRX tank.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Mon Feb 16, 2004 3:06 am

is this what ciper's talking about?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Feb 16, 2004 3:23 am

Yes, that is the turbo-specific filler tank. If the dude who's selling you the engine isn't giving you one, you should try to buy that one.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Mon Feb 16, 2004 3:54 am

sweet!

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Mon Feb 16, 2004 5:39 am

LaureltheQueen wrote:sweet!

Yes, that is the tank I have been talking about here and in masiolli's FS thread. It is a must have.
Also, it occured to me earlier that you should make sure your swap has the stock turbo oil pump (this may have been mentioned), but it is definitely required for the swap...

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I know it's been asked a thousand times, but, i need help

I know it's been asked a thousand times, but, i need help