legacycentral bbs

Here is my current list (with prices from 1stsubarparts). I want to get it running perfect before any modification takes place.

crank seal $5.37
Cam seals $6.01ea
cam oring $2.88ea
rear main seal $8.52
valve cover gasket $10.46ea
bolt seals (valve cover bolts) $2.21ea
water pump $62.96
water pump gasket $1.91
t-stat $9.18
water pump gasket $2.49
oil pump $97.46
oil pump oring $1.93
coolant sensors (ecu) $18.71
02 sensor (will probably use universal, as posted in another thread) $89.96
t-belt $44.96
tensioner $77.37
heater hoses $13.46ea
STi motor mounts $54.57ea
radiator hose's $10.66 each
Total of about 540$



I asked a couple different places for price qoutes, and to include any additional parts. Some of the parts I dont recognize, anyone know what these are?

rear separator plate $12.30
turbo cam holder orings $1.88 each

the valve cover bolt seals should come with the cover gaskets. (i.e. two gaskets and six seals in one box)

Might as well do the main belt and the alt belt while your at it.

Mike

Together? Last time I replaced them they came in a bag individually.

I just replaced the AC and PS/ALT belts on the engine coming out so I plan to reuse them.

the valve cover gaskets and grommets come separate. I'd replace them too.

Knock sensor. And make sure the direct port nitrous injector solenoids are up to par also...

Brat4by4: I dont want that much power!

I did not buy subaru parts, they were made by some gasket company.

Mike

Any one else? Im going to place the order.

From my timing belt experience, I'd say you're all set and then some...

My clutch is going to have to be removed... again .

To do this I am pretty sure that the shop takes the engine out. So whilst it is out what seals can I get to easily? The thing is that it doesn't need a timing belt anytime soon so that and anything under the cover is out of the picture.

I'm thinking.

-Knock sensor
-Coolant sensor
-Rear main seal?

Quick comments would be nice since it is at the shop as we speak...

You can reach the knock sensor without disassembling anything, and the coolant sensor by just removing the alternator or something, so I don't think that you need to stress about this being your big chance to replace those.

I don't know exactly how the seals near the tranny-to-engine mating area are arranged, but the main seal seems like a good one to look at... Also maybe the oil seals between the transmission and axles?

That's what I'm trying to get at. What can I get done? Hopefully I won't be doing work like this for a long time. Is there a rear cam seal?

What happened to your clutch Brat, you just got that one put in recently.

The rear main seal is the only one I can think of that you need to pull the engine to replace. I think the right hand cam has a seal on the back, which necessitates turbo removal. I'm not positive, though as I've yet to get there with my engine.

Steve

My clutch stopped releasing from the pressure plate. Subaru dealership said the hydraulics are fine (took them $80 to say that).

So that leaves the pressure plate and disc. Pressure plate is fine since the clutch will work sometimes then not work then work again, so this eliminates that. Therefore, either the disc broke into pieces or material was shedding off of the face closing that ever so small gap and keeping the pressure plate rotating with the disc, not letting me shift with the car on.

The engine is out. I will have them examine for any leaking oil, etc... Any of the seals a good idea to replace anyways??

I wish I could go there and attack it with some degreaser....

So there is absolutely nothing I can take care of now that my engine resides outside my car?

Rear main seal.

Steve