legacycentral bbs

I've posted bits and peices of my problems over various threads, but it's getting out of hand and pissing me off.

Symptoms:

1) Code 24 (IAC malfunction).

2) High, but stable idle. 1250, and solid as a rock.

3) When green test connectors are connected, Idle raises to 2000RPM, and when the neutral switch is 'off', Idle soars as high as 3000RPM, but eventually falls back to normal. The idle becomes extremely erratic.

4) When the A/C compressor is on, idle becomes very erratic, bouncing around 1000 RPM and 1250 RPM.

5) When I pull the negative battery terminal, on startup (in D-mode, green connectors) I get code 12 (Starter switch) and code 45 (Pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve). The next time I start the car, I don't have the codes come up.

6) With O2 sensor disconnected, VRG-Scan shows a voltage of .3 to .31 coming from the O2 sensor.

7) Starting fluid shows no vaccum leaks, yet I still have a VAC of -15 to -16 inHg at "idle".

Aside from the high idle, and the uber low VAC, the car drives normally (although I haven't gotten on it since I had the clutch replaced 2 weeks ago). I haven't hit fuel cut in a good amount of time.

What do you guy's think? I posted my VRG-Scan results in the other thread. I'll take some more readings tonight ("normal", O2 disconnected, and green-connectors connected).

ANY and ALL help would be GREAT! I'm pretty much up shit's creek here, so even ideas of what might be wrong are a start.

I NEED to get this fixed, and I am starting to get fed up with the car.

Just wondering, did you get to the dealership and talk to them about it today?

I really don't have any idea's besides the ones I've already said. I think they sold you a bad IAC, the wiring is bad or the ecu is bad. Did you check the IAC connectors with an ohm meter and volt meter yet?

Can you tell whether the throttle position sensor or the throttle stops have been tampered with?

Matt - I didn't get a chance to get to the dealership. I had a good deal of stuff to do today, and the boost gauge and all other interior bits took a lot longer than expected to complete. I am going to wake up early tomorrow (stealership opens at 7:30) and try to head over there before work (at 2pm) to see if they can fit me in real quick. The only problem with the IAC being bad, is that you've gotta remove a good deal of parts to get it off. That's a good bit of labor time (time that I won't have until next week) to get the IAC off and in to replace. I might pull it tonight, head to the dealership and tell them and make them order me a new one. Unfortunately, that'll put my car AWOL for the next week to 10 days. I haven't checked the connectors with the ohm meter and volt meter yet. I'll have to find that post Hardy made about how to do that.

Vikash - I'm not sure how to tell, but the TPS from your scanner says it's dead on (4.68 volts, FSM recomends 4.7).

Well, the part of the TPS that needs calibration is the idle switch...

http://www.main.ex...TPS_testing3.jpg

Instead of checking for conductivity between the terminals, you can just check if the scan tool says the idle switch is on or not.

I think you should try getting another throttle body from a car in the junkyard and try swapping the whole thing on.