legacycentral bbs

OK, the coolant fill tank busted a nipple, so I drove it three blocks back home, without any major spill, loss or temp increase.

So I got a new one from the dealer, put it in, and now I have a few CEL codes that have me tweaked

I am getting the knock sensor one- no biggy there, but I am also getting the air control valve (DV) code and the MAF code .

Both of these have me confused because I have never had them before and I have not messed in any of those areas.

HELP

I reset the ECU and they are still there so there is an issue

Reseting the ECU doesn't clear the codes. You have to actually do the clear memory procedure. The air control valve isn't the DV it's the IAC. In terms of the MAF, and maybe the IAC too, have you ever stalled the car? If so then that will usually throw those codes. Go to Legacy777's website and follow the directions for clearing codes using the green and black connectors. That's the only procedure that seems to work for everyone.

Oh and do a D-check too. That will show you any active problems you are having. If you do a D-check and get the all clear then those are old codes and just need cleared.

ok, I was trying to do a D check, but I could not find the black side connectors. The green ones were staring me in the face, but the black ones were not there. So, after digging around under the dash and getting a large piece of plastic in my eye, I gave up and called it a night.

The next moring a mechanic friend of mine pulled the loom and made the black ones appear. DOH!

So I went out and did the d check and all I got was the knock sensor code.

Well, it's normally not a big thing, but I figure- what the hell, lets look anyway.

Well, the car normally sits at the GF's parents house in the front while I work . And it seems a small animal decided to make a home under the intake manifold. Wires chewed and nesting stuff packed in. So I suck up the 70 for the new knock sensor, vaccuum the shit out of the nest and spend an hour putting in the new sensor.

Then TAADAHHH! no more codes.

( I thought the IAC code was for for the diverter)(oh well-learned something new.)

Lesson #1- do not let your car sit for more than three days.

So,

With a new knock sensor - performance and full boost back?

See a difference?

Difference? LMAO - I was thinking- if I loan the car to my friend, it would be good to have it retard timing and boost (so they can't drive it like I do). Just like it does when the knock sensor hits. LMAO

hmm... well if you're still running on the stock boost solenoid, I've noticed that octane booster will piss it off enough to run 6psi instead of the usual 9. OK, so not all the time, but sometimes. Actually, 87 octane gas should piss it off even more reliably... but yeah maybe you should just unplug the knock sensor or something

I'm just never letting anyone else drive my car, period. Let my father drive it once, and next time I went to remote start the car I discovered he parked it in gear. Even with the e-brake on, the starter powered that thing over a curb and killed some bushes pretty bad

So I just tell that story whenever someone asks why they can't drive my car. Perfect excuse....

Chris - Dude, you need to wire your remote starter not to work when the car's in gear! That's why most places refuse to install the things on stickshifts.

And it was probably right of your dad to park it in gear... in most situations it's not safe to rely solely on the handbrake to keep a parked car parked.

I know what you're saying, though... I lent my car to my dad a while ago and now I often can't get into 2nd gear . My brother is the only person on the planet that I don't mind driving my car.

dscoobydoo - Just stick a restrictor somewhere in the intake . An engine breathing through a nickel-sized restrictor won't be able to make much boost...

heh... yeah I know, I need to look back into the starter situation... been having too much fun with other things lately though, and kinda forgot how its all wired up

Do we even have some sort of signal that's different when the car's in gear vs neutral? I dont recall seeing anything to provide such a signal when I was replacing the bushings.

Yeah I know I should be parking the car in gear but I AM in florida. Nothin but flat land here. And then I could never remote start the thing... and dag nabbit I like scaring people walking by my car

The transmission has a neutral switch in it that the ECU uses. It's grounded when the transmission is in gear.

So in Florida nobody ever hits parked cars while driving?

Indeed? I will have to trace this out from your handy ECU wiring diagrams, and incorporate it as an enable. Didn't even know we had that. Thanks!

and... if anyone hits a parked car here in Florida, you can be sure that person is drunk off his or her ass.