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Can I switch the 1993 auto turbo block and sensors (knock, cam, crank, etc.) into the 1990 N/A without issue? I'll be reusing the fuel/intake/emissions system from the N/A, but would like to prepare the block to just drop in.

Steve

You shouldn't have difficulty. Most sensors are identical between turbos and non-turbos. In particular, the three you mention are the same.

You're going to use your stock non-turbo intake manifold, water manifold, heads, exhaust manifolds, and water pump?

The long block will be turbo including the water pump and the new oil pump I need (plus a new knock sensor as I wonder if it failed and allowed the detonation or whatever it was that kicked my ass). The whole top of the engine will be N/A, including the upper water jacket, intake manifold, fuel system, etc. The only things I seem to need are the N/A valve covers (turbos have more breathers) and a lower hose for the turbo water pump. There is no issue with clearance for it that I can tell. I don't think the better oil pump will be a problem as it would just run like a turbo with an open wastegate or some other issue that would cause it not to make boost.

Looking at it it seems a relatively easy job, though I'm not sure how to switch the blocks in the driveway. I can limp it to my mechanic, but then I'll have to have him do most of the work and I'd rather do as much as possible for the experience and money savings.

Steve

Ah, okay.

By upper water jacket, you mean the water manifold? The gooseneck thing right under the intake manifold, that the temperature sensor and sender thread into? I think you could probably just use the turbo one. The only difference that I recall is that on the turbo the sender and sensor are over on the driver side, away from where the turbocharger goes, while on the non-turbo they're on the passenger side where they're a bit easier to reach.

The turbo valve covers have more breathers, but so does the crankcase. The extra breathers connect to each other, probably to help gases move past the closed-deck interface between the heads and the block. They don't connect to anything else, so if you have the EJ22T parts, you might want to use them. Look at the PCV diagram on this page: http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/vacuum/

What about the turbo's oil feed and oil drain fittings? Doesn't the passenger side valve cover have a fitting for receiving oil from the turbo? And I'm not exactly sure where the oil feed comes from... Are you just going to figure out a way to cap them?

I agree that the better oil pump shouldn't matter.

You'll need to cap off the extra 12mm nipple on the water pump, since you're not feeding a turbo.

Yeah, it should be pretty easy... at the least you'll need an engine crane and something to rest the motor on while you swap parts. You could get away with just using a pile of used tires (lots of shops will be glad to have you haul a few away), or you could make a simple stand out of wood like VW people often do.

It's the pass side head that has the oil return. What about using na heads and just the turbo block? Or have you already got it all together?

Good point on the breathers - I have few complete hose circuits on the kitchengine to go by. I also didn't think of the turbo oil and coolant yet, but as the heads are otherwise the same, I should be able to just cap them. I'd rather not take a chance and reuse the N/A head with the major damage to that piston.

Yes, by upper water jacket, I meant the gooseneck and you are correct there are only temp sensor location differences. I know the sensors are interchangeable as I've changed out the N/A's with the turbos already.

Steve