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Question for renmaxi

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 6:46 am
by entirelyturbo
Okay, renmaxi's 91 turbo is having some rather serious issues.

He was unable to start it a few weeks ago, and I dunno why, but he felt changing his spark plugs would help. So he did that and it started. Now recently, it has started only intermittently. Sometimes it will start right up as if nothing is wrong, sometimes it will only crank and will not turn over.

I asked if he's getting spark, he said yes. I asked if he was getting fuel and he said he wasn't sure. I asked if he could hear the fuel pump in the back, and he said he couldn't hear it whether it was running or not.

So one night, I was talking to him over the phone when he said it wouldn't start. I told him to take a line off the fuel filter and crank it, and he said no fuel came out at all, either out of the filter or the line (I wasn't 100% sure which line he pulled). So I said your fuel pump probably kicked the bucket. He replaced the fuel pump, and replaced the fuel pump relay. No dice. So he replaced the ignition relay, still nothing. He replaced the ignition switch, still nothing. It only starts when it wants to.

He won't replace his CPV and turn his CEL off (it is a turbo, but still I consider him lazy :roll: ), so he might have a code in there that we don't know about. I'm trying to get him to let me pull it while he's out of town for a few days.

But anyway, does anyone have any suggestions? Only starts when it wants to. Has a new: fuel pump, fuel pump relay, ignition relay and ignition switch.

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 6:51 am
by evolutionmovement
Temp sensor? Failing crank or cam position sensor?

Steve

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 9:13 am
by THAWA
tell him to post this shit for himself

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 9:51 am
by -K-
Temp sensor if it doesn't want to start when hot.

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:16 pm
by entirelyturbo
I had a feeling about a cam or crank position sensor...

Hardy, for the 8653925th time, he doesn't have Internet access :roll:

He's gone for the next week and I don't have his keys, so I won't be able to do anything for a while... I'll report back if I figure it out.

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 10:47 pm
by irishsetter
If it will only start when it is cold then it may have some starter coil issues. If it is hot the coil could expand if there is any connection issues then it will not start.

Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 11:45 pm
by ultrasonic
Is the fuel pump working? I know it's been replaced, but the problem could be in the wiring. There is a common failure of the connector- where is it? Under the rear seat, or something like that.

Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:46 am
by THAWA
I don't care, he's a grown ass man. He can't spare 10 bucks a month?

Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 3:32 pm
by Brat4by4
THAWA wrote:I don't care, he's a grown ass man. He can't spare 10 bucks a month?
Wow, maybe its a good thing you aren't a full mod... :roll:

Subyluvr seems to know more about whats going on than the other guy anyways.

Posted: Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:41 pm
by THAWA
What would my being a mod of the other forums have to do with anything? Do you honestly think I'd be so immature as to lock this thread or delete it or something? Sorry, I don't do stupid shit like that.

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 2:01 am
by entirelyturbo
Okay, I had a chance to play with it today.

It cranks, comes sooooo close to turning over, and then loses it and just continues cranking. Then after that, it will just crank and no more.

I tried pulling codes by the black connectors (connected them and the turned the ignition switch ON) and the CEL stayed on steady. According to my wonderful Haynes manual, that means there are no codes stored. But that's impossible because I already know his canister purge valve is bad and throwing that code.

I would have liked to do D-check mode instead with the green connectors, but the engine has to start for that to work :roll:

Oh, and he tried removing the crank angle sensor since he was told that could be one of the problems, and broke the bolt off in the block :shock: :oops:

Ideas?

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 3:07 am
by vrg3
ultrasonic's question. It could be the fuel pump wiring. The connector under the rear seat does go bad.

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 3:58 am
by entirelyturbo
Can I put some dielectric grease on there to improve the connection and positively identify that as the problem before we start cutting wires?

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 4:00 am
by vrg3
If the connector's bad, you'll usually see some scorch marks or melting indications on the plastic, since the bad connection gets hot.

And, yeah, you can definitely unplug it, clean it with a wire brush, and reconnect it with dielectric grease to try to improve the connection.

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 4:09 am
by entirelyturbo
I'll try that. Thanks guys.

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 4:14 am
by vrg3
Good luck!

Oh, and if the connector does turn out to be bad, you really should replace it. If nothing else you can just use some crimp-on quick disconnects.

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 5:30 am
by ultrasonic
vrg3 wrote:If nothing else you can just use some crimp-on quick disconnects.
Make sure to use insultated ones.

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 5:48 am
by entirelyturbo
Where should I get these connectors? I've never paid that much attention but I'm guessing there's just a positive wire and a ground wire, so any set of two-pin connectors should work?

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 2:05 pm
by vrg3
Good call, Steve.

Yeah, they're just two wires. You can use two 1-pin connections instead of a 2-pin one; just use different genders on each side so the polarity doesn't get messed up.

The quick disconnects we refer to are these:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=095-302
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl ... er=095-312

You should be able to get them and a crimper at any electronics, hardware, or auto parts store.

If you're not familiar with crimp terminals it might be better to go with something simpler and more foolproof. A nice option is a Posi-Lock connector that many auto parts stores carry. You stick the stripped wire in the connector and then thread the thing together and it forms a solid vibration-resistant connection. And you can undo the connection easily by unthreading it:

http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html

They make weatherproof versions, too, though that shouldn't be necessary in this case.

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 5:46 pm
by entirelyturbo
Refer to this thread everybody...