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Anybody replace the side seals on the rear diff before? The left seal is letting oil seap out. It's not making puddles, but it's enough that it's causing the underside of the diff to be wet.

The LSD setup unfortunately has all sorts more crap.

There's an oil seal, packing, and more crap that I need.

I'm going to dig into this probably once I get the parts, but it'd be nice to get any pointers from someone that has done it before.

TIA.

I was looking at mine not that long ago and its seeping a little oil too which is weird since it was installed last spring.

whats up with this stupid supercharge your legacy ad at the bottom of the page here?

"I purchased two Turbonators for my Chrysler Sebring and immediately noticed the increase in power. It was more than I expected. I am already noticing the improved gas mileage. I like them so much, I am ordering two more for my brothers. Now, it feels like my car has a turbo charger." - Dr. Brian Coyle (San Jose, CA)

Find Dr. Brian Coyle, race him, then find out he's actually just the copy guy at the advertising place, and doesn't really have a doctorate, either. (The secretaries just gave him that title. )

it's just part of the ads that google displays based on the page content....

We standunder.

I finally got around to doing this.

What a bit of work for just the seals. I probably made it a little more difficult on myself since I didn't want to remove the hubs or anything. I dropped the diff out of the rear subframe.....which wasn't overly a pain in the butt.

I removed the bearing carrier plates one at a time, cleaned things up, and replaced the oil seal as well as the o-ring that seals the plates to the diff. I ran into a problem, I couldn't get the old oil seal out. I went to home depot and got a 1 1/2 pipe coupler (I think that was the size) It worked perfectly to get the old oil seal out. I used the old one over the new one to drive it in. There's also a piece of packing that needs to be replaced. I did that too. Another note is that you need to put silicone on the threads of the bolts since they are open to the inside of the diff. I used the ultra grey permatex stuff.

So I get the diff done. Now the shit begins. Getting the diff back in is a real pain...especially with just one person. It'd be a lot easier with those rear studs off. Plus getting the bolt in for the one side of the rear diff mount has to be done with the rear diff low enough so the bolt can slide in. It just wasn't fun at all.

I get everything back together, and go to put in the roll pins. One side doesn't want to go in. I either had it off one spline, or things weren't lining up right. I ended up taking off the trailing link and lateral link connection at the hub to give me enough slack to reposition the axle. It didn't want to line up. I rotated it 180 degrees, and that worked. Needless to say, I will be inserting those damn roll pins FIRST before continuing any work....if I do this again in the future.

So I finally get everything done around 10 pm or so. I didn't even bother taking it for a test drive.....I just wanted to eat and take a shower.

Here's a few pics
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... /reardiff/

Wasn't that diff rebuilt or something before you bought it Josh? I would think it had new seals in it...

I think I need to do my pumpkin cover gasket actually. Just that cover is covered with grease, nothing else on the diff.

All that was done is the rear diff cover removed, insides checked out, and gasket put on.

Raising this thread from the dead...

Josh, do you still have part numbers for the side oil seals, o-ring, packing, and rear cover gasket?

When looking these up it seems like the parts catalogs don't have LSD-specific stuff.

which parts catalogs were you using?

Did you look at the one I posted?
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=30531

I can find them again, but I'd be using what I posted.

I was using an incomplete catalog, should have tried the big one first.

The one you posted had it all, thanks!

welcome