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New member with Head problem.........
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 12:42 am
by blazerayvon
Hi, my name is zack...im 18 and just purchacsed a 1990 legend L... as soon as i got the car the Head gasket blew. 2 questions....do i need to replace the head bolts and does anyone have a head breakdown diagram.....im new at turning wrenches...also how hard is the c\v half shaft to change on the passenger side?
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 12:44 am
by blazerayvon
my mistake its a legacy
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 1:41 am
by Legacy777
the factory manual says to, however I've been told from a subie engine rebuilder, you don't.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 3:26 am
by dzx
which side is the bad head gasket? I never changed my bolts except for the head bolt i snapped off in the block

. Apparently 180 in/lbs is not equal to 180 ft lbs.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 3:40 am
by THAWA
front or rear halfshaft?
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 8:22 am
by Project_Legacy
dzx wrote:Apparently 180 in/lbs is not equal to 180 ft lbs.
LoL. that sure isnt equal.
if you purchase a manual it should give you a pretty good idea. if you are new to it then yea i would suggest getting one anyway. it helped me a lot with my motor swap and hybriding the motor. ive NEVER done any work like that before either. now i know a lot.

those manuals are usually about 15 to 20 dollars...
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 4:30 pm
by Matt Monson
I've never replaced the head bolts with new ones. And leet me know which CV axle you need. I've got all of them for your car in good used condition. Changing them is pretty easy, but you must have an impact wrench to get the lock nut off...
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 11:04 pm
by dzx
Matt Monson wrote: Changing them is pretty easy, but you must have an impact wrench to get the lock nut off...
I used a nice industrial size breaker bar and a little jumping up and down on it after knocking the knick out of the nook.
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 12:25 am
by Matt Monson
Sounds like too much work for me...

Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 8:04 pm
by blazerayvon
well the half shaft is on the front right passenger side thats the 1 i was talking about and i just got a brand new copy of the manual for the car from the original owner never used.
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 8:09 pm
by blazerayvon
and i was changing the head gaskets and one of the head bolts are down in the motor now. Does anyone know how 2 get it out in a Aluminum block or is it not possible?????
Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 10:32 pm
by Manarius
blazerayvon wrote:and i was changing the head gaskets and one of the head bolts are down in the motor now. Does anyone know how 2 get it out in a Aluminum block or is it not possible?????
Umm..use a magnet? If the bolt isn't aluminum, you should be able to get it out of there.
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:04 am
by dzx
He means the bolt snapped off in the engine block lol.
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:54 pm
by Manarius
dzx wrote:He means the bolt snapped off in the engine block lol.
Oh. I thought he lost it. Didn't know you ought to snap them suckers off eh
.
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:17 pm
by hackish
Machine shops can usually get the broken pieces out. They can just mill them out and use a tap to clean out the threads.
For the head bolts I would strongly recommend replacing them. I'm not even sure how they will come out of my block when I get to rebuilding it They are really badly rusted!
-Michael
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:25 pm
by dzx
I talked to him about this on msn. His brother in law said that the machine shop told him drilling it out would burr the aluminum. I don't remember what the torque on the head bolts is but my book showed it as being at about 180 in/lbs but it had a screwy system of tightening it. Anybody know what the final torque on the head bolts should be just to be clear?
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 9:35 pm
by professor
subaru head bolts like most modern cars are stretch bolts, you really need to follow the Factory Service Manual. Usually that type of bolt has a "torque plus angle" spec, like 160 ft-lb, plus 90 degrees (these are not the actual numbers !!!!)
you need to follow the sequence as well as the torque angle spec
i wouldn't dream of replacing heads on any motor without renewing the head bolts, without a decent excuse (if you have a 2.5 liter aluminum V-8 from a Daimler, well then that's a good excuse)
Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 4:14 am
by blazerayvon
i looked in my haines book....i really have conflictiong views on the torque spec of the head bolts.....does anyone have a link that has the proper info ....(just pulled the block out tonight....going to the machine shop tomorrow!)
Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 4:41 am
by vrg3
Have you searched on this board at all?
There's a scan of the entire engine portion of the official Subaru service manual!
Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 4:55 am
by 206er
here is the cylinder head bolt tightening procedure as per the 1992 FSM:
1.apply a thin film of engine oil to all bolts and washers
2.tighten all bolts to 22ft-lb in the numerical order and then to 51ft-lbs in numerical order
3.back off all bolts by 180deg and then again by another 180deg
4.tighten the middle 2 bolts to 25ft-lb (non turbo) and 27.1ft-lb(turbo)
5.tighten the remaining bolts in order to 11ftlb(non turbo) and 14ft lb(turbo)
6.tighten all bolts by 80 to 90degrees, but NO MORE than 90
7. tighten all bolts again by 90degrees. total re-tightening angle must not exceed 180 degrees.
did anyone's bolts make a hiss when they were loosened? mine did, the bolts must pressurize the threaded hole in the engine block. smelled hella nasty almost like gear oil or something. old oil vapor I guess.
Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2005 12:53 pm
by dzx
I think they may tighten up even more on their own after time. Mine just made a screeching noise when i loosened them.