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Hey peeps, Ive been looking into getting rid off a check engine light since buying the car a week or so ago (note its a uk spec one) and to find the reason for it hesitating all over the place regardless off throttle so i tried checking the error codes in the ecu which came up with a 22 (knock sensor), a 24 (air control valve) and an 11 (crank angle sensor). So I then tried to do the dynamic check and followed the instructions on this site but unless the check engine sign is supposed to flash all the time when your driving it doesnt seem to be working, anybody any ideas why. I also couldnt reset the ecu using the instructions.
Also, anyone any idea of how much this little lot will cost parts wise and if any of the jobs to be sorted look expensive (also any idea where the parts are).
Cheers in advance for any response and btw, by running the checks the engines stuttering less than it did, especially with the dynamic check running lol.

While doing the check with both connectors plugged together, the check engine light'll flash error codes for what the ECU finds as your driving. Unless its a constant flashing (2 per second or something like that), which means it didn't find anything.

I found I had to ensure that there were no codes coming up before the ECU would reset itself while doing that check. Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes? That usually works as well to reset the computer.

Not entirely keen on disconnecting the battery as Im pretty sure the radios got a keycode in it which I dont have and last time I tried to get 1 for a ford it cost me! Just found some other instructions tho that tell me to just floor the throttle (engine off) and let go after a few secs instead of half way so Ill give that a bash.

You can pull SBF-2 from the fuse box under the dash. That should kill all engine management electronics' power without interrupting the radio's supply.

EDIT: This is wrong. See below.

vrg3 wrote:You can pull SBF-2 from the fuse box under the dash. That should kill all engine management electronics' power without interrupting the radio's supply.

Really? All this time I've been disconnecting the battery, when I could have been just pulling a fuse.... You learn something new everyday, don't you?

I also learned today that changing the coolant tank on a turbo is a pain in the A$$!! But thats another topic.

Why is it a pain? I don't remember it being difficult, except for the endless process of ensuring the cooling system is full of coolant instead of bubbles.

pull fuse no 14. It's labeled egi/tcu it will kill the power to the TCU and ECU.

Pulling the SBF-2 fusable link will probably kill your radio settings.

SBF-2 only supplies power to engine management stuff (injectors, ignition, sensors, solenoids, ECU). But I was mistaken! It doesn't supply the backup power for the ECU. So removing SBF-2 won't actually clear the ECU. Sorry about that!

Josh, I think you mean fuse 14. Fuse 14 does supply the ECU with its backup power.

So I take back what I said above. Don't pull SBF-2. Pull the EGI fuse (which I say is 14 but Josh says is 12 -- maybe it's different on different cars).

You are correct sir. it is 14.....my brain failed me.

So pulling fuse 14 works That's definitely easier than disconnecting the negative side of the battery (I don't have to dig up my tools to pull the fuse).

As for the coolant tank, how do I make sure I've got all the air out? I realize that's for another topic, so maybe via PM? The only comments I've seen on here are for the NA's. Is it the same (bleed screw on passenger side of rad)?

It was discussed in some other threads; try a more broad search.

But basically, there is no bleed screw. All the air has to come out of the filler cap. You can help it along by squeezing the upper radiator hose, but you do kind of have to let the engine run to warm up the air, moving it to the top, fill up again, and repeat. It's not hard but it can grow tiresome. :)

Thanks vrg3!

DOA, any luck with your stuff?

vrg3 wrote:It was discussed in some other threads; try a more broad search.

But basically, there is no bleed screw. All the air has to come out of the filler cap. You can help it along by squeezing the upper radiator hose, but you do kind of have to let the engine run to warm up the air, moving it to the top, fill up again, and repeat. It's not hard but it can grow tiresome.

I thought thats what that screw was for on the passenger side of the radiator.

FIrst, thanks for the fuse tip glad I never tried all off that lol. Managed to reset the ecu this afternoon by holding the throttle at full for longer. Checked for any codes after a good blast and wahoo, none showing and its actually boosting properly (minus the odd hiccup which Ill put down to the plugs since I aint got a clue whats in there yet) and it actually feels quick for a change and revs cleanly to the limiter instead of dropping power from 5k onwards (its just a shame it dont feel as fast or immediate as me bike lol). I do beleive well chuffed is the wording for this .

OOps, just remembered, while having a look in the engine bay today I noticed that for no apparent reason theres 2 throttle quadrants on the intake (I did think maybe for homologation reasons for rallying but theyr different profiles so it cant be that), anyone any idea what its for and if it gives any better response. Needless to say Ill be swapping the throttle cable onto it anyway just for kicks and giggles lol but itd be nice to know why its there.

THAWA wrote:I thought thats what that screw was for on the passenger side of the radiator.

Turbos (which have the filler tank on top of the intake manifold) don't have that screw.

DOA wrote: while having a look in the engine bay today I noticed that for no apparent reason theres 2 throttle quadrants on the intake

You mean the two separate cams on the throttle shaft? One is connected to the accelerator pedal and the other is connected to the cruise control actuator.

DOA wrote:Managed to reset the ecu this afternoon by holding the throttle at full for longer. Checked for any codes after a good blast and wahoo, none showing and its actually boosting properly.

Can you explain exactly what you did? I have 3 codes that wont clear no matter what I do! Even left my battery unhooked for about 8 hrs before. I replaced some of the parts I'm getting codes on and they still didn't clear

The way I reset it was with the engine up to proper temperature and the ignition switched to on, foot right to the floor (even found extra power while doing that by discovering my mats werent letting the throttle go fully on) kept it there for about 10 secs (just to be sure ), let it go a bit for a couple o secs and then released it. After that I started the car up and went for a quick blast until the engine check light started flashing at me (not codes you understand, just regular flashing) and took it home. Disconnected the green connectors when I got back and did the black connecter check and hey presto, no codes and happy bunny city .
Hmmage on the cruise control bit but Im thinking that sinse the quadrant (or cam) has a different profile and works the throttle in the same way as the other 1 that it may either give a more or less aggresive throttle action. Ill report back on this one when I get the arse up enough to bother doing it.

Saying all that, just nipped to the shop in it and its thrown the 22 code up again, bugger! Im pretty sure its only doing it when the engines cold though si will it affect performance when its warm and the CELs gone off?

THANK YOU! FINALLY I held the gas in for ten seconds instead of three and it cleard my codes! WOOOHOOO, and whats better is they didn't come back! It only took me 3 months to clear them bastards. thanks again.