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I have been going part by part and can't find the problem. I have these codes: 12 24 33 35 44 45 49. I have put in a new knock sensor, MAF and check a lot of other sensors. What am I missing. how could I be getting a MAF coe after I just put a new one in and clear the codes.

With that many codes at once I'd be looking for bigger overall causes, grounding, power supply, damaged main harness, maybe even a bad ECU. I dont know the codes by heart (and to lazy to look them up), if you list them maybe something about the combination will spark a thought. Also, how did you get to this point, buy the car this way, engine swap/rebuild, accident... some history might shed some light aswell.

Gary

yeah, problem codes aren't always just sensors, they could be what's reading the sensors, or indications of a bigger problem. I guess I'm just echoing what All_Talk said, but I agree with him

Yeah, I think you have 1 of 2 problems.

1. Something is grounding the system (remember, the ECU only reads electrical impulses; if they aren't exactly how they're supposed to be, the ECU throws a light and a code)

2. Something is causing all these codes. Sometimes, it's just one sensor that's broke or needs cleaned that sets off like 8 others. If you look up what they are, I'm sure vrg3 probably can tell you which one you need to fix.

Thanks for the quick reply guys. I Found a crack in the knock sensor wire and the outside strands were touching the inside so I repaired it and cleared the codes and still the same problem. So here we go 12-starter switch, 22-knock sensor, 24-air control vavle, 33-vehicle speed sensor, 35-canister purge soleniod valve, 44-duty soleniod valve (wastegate control) 45-atmospheric pressure sensor, 49-air flow sensor. so there it is and keep in mind the car runs a little rich but other than that it runs fine. 14-15 on vac and 8-9 psi boost. I hope this can help.

Any taker?

I wonder if you have a short somewhere?

The only time I've gotten near that many codes was when I washed my engine down and sprayed it down without covering anything. It started up and ran fine, but I had about 6 CEL codes, similar to the ones you have actually. I presume that all those sensors had just shorted out, so the ECU wasn't getting correct readings from them.

Now I realize that you haven't said anything about washing your engine, so that isn't the problem. But I wonder if you have some part of your wiring harness that's frayed and could possibly be grounding out on something? You might wanna check for that.

You still might wanna consider swapping your ECU with a known good one and see what that does...

The knock sensor wire goes over the block outside of that wiring harness and the MAF runs in a seperate harness up to the connector block. I'd check your connector block to make sure it's all tight. And then if you have time and an ohm meter, start checking continuities between the ECU connectors and the connector block. That'd show any breaks in the wires. A little easier and perhaps should be done first, check to make sure none of the pins at the connector block have continuity with ground. Josh's FSM scans have pinouts and connector diagrams. That'd be my suggestion at least.

Oh, 35 is just an emissions thing so don't sweat that one.

Have you reset the ECU, and get these same codes?

If you haven't reset the ECU, do that first. Remove fuse 14 EGI/TCU for 30 min.

I went through all the wiring yesterday and I put some grounding wires on the intake manifold and the ingition coil plates. I did the battery dance for an hour while I worked on other stuff and I got the same codes. I to do the battery dance and starrt the car and let it run then read the codes and its all the same as when I did the battery dance and read the codes without starting the car at all. This really sucks.

What other repairs have you done in the last month or two?

It seems a little odd that all these sensors are throwing codes. I'm trying to think of one major problem that would set all these off. The only thing that I can think of, that would show all these problems and still run fine, would be the ECU itself. I can't think of anything that could cause so many problems that the ECU sees. You sound like a pretty thorough guy. I dunno.

Electrical problems are always a beyotch.

Yeah I first replaced the knock sensor and I got the codes but they would clear then they would come back then clear and etc. So I then put in new fuel and air filters, plugs and wires. This is when the codes came on constant. I am still looking at it when I have time but I am running it in the Subaru Challenge this weekend in Gainesville and I hope it will hold up.

Yeah I got it down to three codes after I rewired my knock sensor and cleaned all the connectors. 24, 35 and 44. Maybe some one can give me some insite now.

Canister Purge Solenoid Valve; Mine quit working recently and I got a few different codes 11,13,22,23 and 35.
I discounted the possibility that 11 and 13 were really a problem, since the car actually ran.
I cleared the codes and cleaned the airflow sensor, it was kind of dirty, but it didn’t help any though.
I cleared the codes and replaced the knock sensor with another one that I had laying around, that didn’t change anything either.
Then I cleared the codes and went to the C.P.S.V. and swapped it with an extra one I had and it straightened right up and stopped giving me codes.

i had the same problem.... after changeing EVERYTHING on the top of the engine the only thing left was the ecu. swaped it out and bam! just had to adjust my air idle a bit and she purrs again.

get a new ecu

we just got a 91 ss in at work
pm me if you can't find one

well....don't get a new ECU right away, test around a little first, you don't want to randomly replace expensive equipment.

I noticed last night that I am only pulling a vacuum of like -11. I still get 8 psi in boost but it kinda sounds a little raspy.

Wait, you're a 24 35 44 capricorn who likes long walks on the beach too????

J/K. I get the same 3 codes sometimes intermittently so I will subscribe to this thread.

One common point of failure is that all 3 of those things are powered through the "ignition relay", so that was the first thing I tried replacing. Since then, I've gone about a month with no codes!!! (keeping my fingers crossed). You should consider replacing it ($20). The part number for the ignition relay is in the "Official part numbers reference" thread in a post from VRG3.

Of course, you should also make sure you don't have a real problem with your boost and idle. Canister purge is just a nuisance.

I tryed to reset the ecu and when I turn the key to the on position I get these codes. So I tried to reset the ecu and run the engine and I still get the same codes. Where is this start contact your talking about and should it be turning on when I turn on the ignition or is it when I turn the key to engage the starter?

I don't remember if the "ignition relay" is activiated by turning the key to "acc" or turning it to "on" but I don't think it matters.

It is located under the dash on the drivers side way way up there. It's near the firewall and also near the left side of the car - just way up.

The relay itself is brown plastic and a little smaller than a matchbox car. You should probably buy the replacement before you start searching under your dash so that you know what it looks like. It has 6 pins. The relay is plugged into the electrical harness and it is held up in the car by a holder bracket next to a couple other relays.

It is a BIG PAIN to reach it and remove it, but at least you don't have to dissasemble the dash or anything else (except for maybe removing the plastic thing by the driver's knees that includes the "TRAY").

make sure you're resetting the ECU properly...you can't just disconnect the battery and recconect, you have to drain the system (hit the brakes a couple times) and leave it sit for 45 minutes or so....

I just disconnected the battery, hit the brakes quick, and I got a code....let it sit, and it was fine.

I disconnected the battery and pressed the brake a few times and left it unhooked all night. Still know luck. The codes come back as soon as I turn to acc. Just for kicks I pulled that relay and the cel went away completely so I guess that is part of the cel circuit.