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Hmm...on my drive home im coasting along then to pass some idiots ina SRT-4 i dip into the boost and floor it, get to about 15 lbs in 3rd gear then it feels like its not pulling but the boost is still up. I look at the a/f gauge and when it stops pullin it dips all the way to lean and the CEL pops on. Once off the throttle everything is back to a ok. This is weird because from a launch i didnt feel anyprobs, In fact i managed to peel out, which was a new one for me. but just diping into the boost in 3rd gear made my car run like shit for a sec or two.

everyonce ina while under WOT the CEL will pop on for just a sec or two, but this hesitant feeling is somewhat new.

ANY ideas will be GREATLY appreciated.

Have you tried connecting the read memory connectors together and reading the flashed CEL code(s)? There's a complete writeup on this in one of the sticky posts here.

Sounds like your engine was maybe pulling craploads of timing from some sensed knock, perhaps in 3rd you're able to load the engine enough to pass some threshold in the available fuel flow (dirty injectors? old fuel pump?), at least one cylinder (prob. #3) is going lean, and there goes the timing and CEL.

Yeah, you should probably stop making that happen for now.

havnt checked to codes, mostly becuase im to lazy and dont wanna misinterpret the codes.

Im gunna replace the valve cover gaskets, Do an oil change and replace the fuel pump, And run some bg 44k through her and see if that fixes the problem. I figure this problem is more or less related to the fuel pump, The fuel pump already gives me probs when the fuel is any lower then 3/4 full. When makin hard right turns and accelerating it starves of fuel, Almost like fuel cut but then after gettin off the gas it goes back to normal, but is worse depending on how low the fuel is(ive actually stalled out because of this). So i just kinda assume this new prob is another sign of the fuel pump going....or other fuel related issue.

Actually, from that it sounds like your second fuel pump (jet pump to keep fuel near the pickup) isn't working. That'd definately cause some of the issues you've been having.

Unfortunately, that's about all I know about the jet pump, other than it's on the drivers' side of the gas tank. Maybe someone else can chime in here with some actual advice? So I can stop talking out of my ass again?

Read the damn codes!

I'm sorry if I sound short, but it's freakin stupid not to read the codes. The computer is telling you what the hell is wrong with it, or what sensor might be malfunctioning at that time.

Read the codes, post what you find.

...Josh's got a point there, if you read the codes and post them here we'd be able to help ya much better.

Until then it's just pure speculation.

yea, its cool i understand. Im not the smartest dude in the world most times . I dont know how to check the codes cause ive never had to do it yet, but ill search and find out then check them and let ya know what turns up. I am gunna reset the cpu though (unplug the battery and let sit overnight?) then if the CEL and lean outs, come back. Ill post some codes.

You're putting your engine at further detonation risk by making it go through this set of lean conditions again...

Here's a direct link to the article on reading engine codes from the LCO library:

http://www.legacycentral.org/library/li ... /codes.htm

Wait a sec... I just did some searching through your old posts. Do I have this right???

Your modifications are:

STi badge stuck on grille
Bad headlight bulbs
WRX hood scoop over no intercooler
Reverse-glow backing on instrument cluster
Boost gauge
"Air/fuel ratio" gauge
Short shifter
Iridium spark plugs
Fuel cut defender

Did I miss anything? Why are you running 15 psi of boost?

You didnt miss anything. I run 15 psi because with the hose i unplugged thats as high as it goes till about 4th gear then it gets stupidly high(20-25), so i dont get on it in 4th or 5th. I am also gettin a greddy EBC next week or so. ill be running a front mount by the end of summer, And my headlights work very well mind you .
i gave them a shot of some rubbing compounds and they are very clear now.

OK this oficially sux my ass. here are the codes i pulled

22-Knock sensor

23-Air flow sensor

42-Idle switch

45-Pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve

OK, feel free to step in with your VAST knowledge vikash. i need HELP BAD. But im gunna clear the ecu and see what comes back before i do anything else, cause the knock i think is saved from when i was in colorado and i didnt have the engine cover. water just sat in the knock sensor's little hole till the engine got hot enough to evaporate it.

wow.... that rat tat tat tat sound you hear whenever your foots in the gas is called knock... can't imagine what your piston crowns look like



gotta say though, you treat your motor that bad and it still runs.... says a lot for the endurance of these little buggers

Wish i could say i hear that "rat atatata" sound but i dont. If i did my problem might be easier solved And i dont treat my motor like shit. I plugged all the hoses back up. And am reseting my ecu as we speak. I guess i'll run no fun stock boost till i get my greddy unit i'll check the codes either tonight afta school or, tomorrow. get back to ya later on this, gotta go put my fuse back in.

Ok, After all hoses are plugged back up, it feels very VERY slow, its only boosting 7-8-9 psi but thats what its supposed to be doing. It just feels really slow. After i reset the ecu it should like go back to normal feel and such correct?

Boosting 15 psi without an intercooler is "treating your motor like shit". You should not be boosting more then around 10 psi unintercooled.

As everybody said, you were abusing your engine. Thank you for stopping.

And my headlights work very well mind you

No, they don't. Not if you still have that "hyper white" trash installed instead of good bulbs.

What happened after you tried clearing the codes?

Didnt do it right, or somthing, pulled the egi/at fuse from under the dash for like 30 mins, then the codes were still there. Im gunna disconnect the battery tomorrow morning. Then we'll see if the car runs any better, im also deciding to buy a turboxs MBC instead of the greddy EBC. mostly cause i wanna use that money toward an optima battery and newer plug wires

Try the method where you connect both pairs of connectors and drive.

Why not save the money and just not buy a boost controller? You shouldn't be running more than stock boost right now anyway.

allright ill try that method. My headlights are GREAT IMO. i wanna boost about 12 so id like a boost controller. I dunno im gettin about 750$ next week and am having a hardtime figuring out what i need/want. Any suggestions?

keep in mind, i need to do an oil change and replace my valve cover gasket's.

92whitelegacy wrote:My headlights are GREAT IMO.

They're terrible.

i wanna boost about 12 so id like a boost controller.

Don't! You can't just spin a turbo faster and expect things to be okay.

I dunno im gettin about 750$ next week and am having a hardtime figuring out what i need/want. Any suggestions?

An intercooler and an exhaust could make it safe to increase boost.

I also vote for some sort of intercooler, and a larger exhaust.

If you want to buy a manual boost controller, don't waste your money on a TurboXS; Dawes Devices (now 3bar racing) offers a very reasonable MBC for $25:

http://www.3barracing.com/products.htm

If you tell me where i can get a full 3" TBE for less then 750$ im all over it. I dont know anybody with a welder or anything. So when i get my exhaust done im gunna have to goto a shop for everything.

meineke quoted me-275$-350$ for full 3" piping and bunging a downpipe. thats not including a muffler and downpipe. So ill be hard pressed to get a TBE alone for under 700$

I cleared the codes this afternoon by connect both green and black connectors. As soon as i started the car, the CEL blinked slowly and evenly to indicate the all clear, I went for the instructed drive anyway and still all clear. So most of my probs are solved for the time being at least. Acceleration still seems alil sluggish. Im gunna put an optima & new plug wires in when i get my money, see if that makes any changes.

thanx for the help guys, sry i was mean to my scooby.....

p.s. when u see how much light my lights put out your gunna eat your foot

92whitelegacy wrote:I cleared the codes this afternoon by connect both green and black connectors. As soon as i started the car, the CEL blinked slowly and evenly to indicate the all clear, I went for the instructed drive anyway and still all clear.

Good. Now treat your engine right and hopefully it'll stay that way.

Acceleration still seems alil sluggish. Im gunna put an optima & new plug wires in when i get my money, see if that makes any changes.

Well, you're comparing stock boost with much-more-than-stock boost, so it may well seem sluggish to you for a while even if everything's normal.

But you may want to do a compression test just to see how it's doing...

p.s. when u see how much light my lights put out your gunna eat your foot

What do I get if I'm right and you're wrong?

Measure your lights' output and we'll see.

Vikash is the one person in the world (or least that I know) that you don't want to argue lighting with. He knows his stuff like few others. I'd lay my money on him every time.