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Crushed Socket, Dimm drivers light.

Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 10:42 pm
by New92
Ok, Ive searched this but found nothing related. Now the problem seems simple but bear in mind that I have no electrical "know how" beyond the basics of direct to batt wiring for fogs, fans etc. When I purchased this car a few weeks ago the first real issue I had is being pulled over by a cop becuase my "headlight was out". On the way home I picked up some 9003 Silverstars but apon installation I discover that the female socket which plugs into the back of the drivers light is crushed into pieces and all that is left is the "spade" connectors that attach to the bulbs male prongs. I attempted to crimp the connectors a bit and install them anyway but that only produces a very dimm yellow color from the bulb. I have observed a couple of things: 1) the wiring in the drivers side is a different color than that of the pass side so I could have it misswired without a correct reference? 2) one of the wires has some corrosion near the spade on the wire and the wire itself is kind of black so maby it will work if I just splice in some new wire? Just wondering what you all thought of that. Its hardly an issue with custome projectors or hids but it is an issue none the less. BTW I have a 92 Legacy Sedan Turbo 5mt 4wd. If you need anything else let me know. Thanks for taking the time to look this over.
Ben

Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 11:07 pm
by vrg3
#2 sounds promising. That corrosion could mean a high-resistance connection. That high resistance would make the light dim and also get hot. That heat could have cooked the connector housing.

There should be only one wire that's colored differently between the left and right lights. Low beams are yellow-with-blue-stripe. High beams are red. Common is blue-with-white-stripe on the right and red-with-blue-stripe on the left. On the bulbs themselves, it's like this:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics/h4_base.png

In any case, if the connector housing has fallen apart, you need to replace the connector. The connector is the same as for high/low sealed beams and H4 bulbs, so any auto parts store will have something that will fit.

You may want to take the opportunity to make a heavy-duty harness with relays, since you're going to be wiring the lights anyway.

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:28 am
by New92
Hey thanks for the info. Ill check out that H4 harness tomorrow. And sorry for the obvious question but....."heavy duty harness"? Would you be kind enough to spoon me the info?

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:28 am
by New92
Do you mean just heavier g wire ie 10g?

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 6:43 am
by vrg3
I can suggest you search for a thread titled "brighter headlight mod" or something similar.

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2006 6:55 am
by New92
Why is it that the most obvious answer is often the most overlooked? Of all the keywords I searched that one never ever entered my dimly lit head! :wink:

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:12 pm
by New92
Ok, so forgive me, I am a complete ignoramous when it comes to wiring. I decided to do the brighter mod as you have so painstakingly explained in other posts. I have everything I need ie: 12g wire, H4 sockets, 2 relays, and 2 fuse holders with fuses. I have placement and concealment for the new wires all worked out the only problem is where do I tap into the stock wiring? I found the red "trunk" coming into the fuse box from the ignition, I think I sourced the wires coming out of the box to a greyish plug behind the battery, I also found the wiring running under the pass fender thru the firewall into the car. So where do I connect the stock wiring to the new relays? Im pretty confident of the rest of the project but I am confused about this and dont want to just start cutting and splicing without some expert confirmation. Thanks V!

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:19 pm
by vrg3
Ask the question again in the thread about the modification. :)

Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:49 pm
by New92
Cool thanks.