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Hey so ive bypassed my OE wastegate control solenoid to run my manual controller. I have left the bottom vac line and electrical connector still connected. Now it seems that whenever i try and go WOT pre-boost it will click very loudly and i get a hesitation. But if i ease into boost before WOT it doesnt click loud enough to hear and boosts fine. My question is how much should this thing be clicking and should it be loud enough to hear in the car?

My cars controller would click when I had it hooked up to the factory stuff, basically it would work and the not work. I dont get why yours would create a hesitation, because it is just being driven, its not the one in charge. Do you have a FCD? Is the map sensor doing something wierd maybe?
You have to leave the electrical hooked up or you get a CEL. The bottom hose is just for the air that is being released back into the intake system. Hmm, Let me think........

this clicking, comes on right about when boost does? are you sure were not talking about wastegate flutter? i get really loud clicking and wastegate flutter, this is with everything hooked up. i have heard its just a weak spring, but i think it may be result of a boost leak and the turbo spinning faster throwing off wastegate duty cycles and it trying to work to hard resulting in flutter... just a thought

Plug all the vacuum line, so you dont get any vacuum leaks. Find another dropping resistor(like the one on the back of the presure sensor assembly. Plug the dropping resistor in where your wastegate solenoid goes. This gets rid of the clicking and prevents a CEL. Warning: the resistance of the resitor is a bit low, so it can get hot. I drove for at least 6 months with no problems to date.

what do you mean by a dropping resistor? the white thingy on the back of the bracket?

the wastegate solenoid is 100% mechanical so it will operate normally correct?

just tried that, it works no clicking, but i only get 6lbs of boost (wastegate boost)

and yeah that thing does get hot.. but if youve had no problems with it then cool.

My post was for Threshld1 since he is using a MBC. If you unhook the soleniod you will only get 6lbs.

I believe that resistor is for the ABS. So if you are still using your ABS you should find another one from a JY, and leave the original one hooked up.

Im not sure what you mean by wastegate solenoid being 100% mechanical.

oh nevermind, i have an extra wastegate solenoid thatll work instead too.

just bought an EBAY MBC

would it throw a CEL or cause any damage to the solenoid if i simply removed the vac line for now untill i either get another resistor or find something that will disipate the heat better. Essentially your suggesting to place a resistor in place of the solenoid to keep the circuit closed with a resistance as to not short it. so wouldnt a high wattage resistor of similar resistance work?

if unplugging it works, with an MBC can we simply remove the wastegate solenoid altogether? if the ECU isnt bothered by unplugging it than having it not hooked up wont effect anything.

Threshld1 wrote:would it throw a CEL or cause any damage to the solenoid if i simply removed the vac line for now untill i either get another resistor or find something that will disipate the heat better. Essentially your suggesting to place a resistor in place of the solenoid to keep the circuit closed with a resistance as to not short it. so wouldnt a high wattage resistor of similar resistance work?

the only thing that plugging into that white resistor can hurt is the resistor itself, so unless your worried about ruining the pointless little resistor it should be fine.

Threshld1 wrote:would it throw a CEL or cause any damage to the solenoid if i simply removed the vac line for now untill i either get another resistor or find something that will disipate the heat better. Essentially your suggesting to place a resistor in place of the solenoid to keep the circuit closed with a resistance as to not short it. so wouldnt a high wattage resistor of similar resistance work?

The resistor lets the ECU "see" that something is hooked up. So that it wont throw a cel. Yes, all you need is a resistor that is a high enough wattage at around 20 ohms I think. Just us a multimeter and measure the resistance of the solenoid, and get a resistor to match.
A higher resistance may work also.

The only advantage to all this is to be able to remove the soleniod and not get a cel.

Be sure to plug the third hose so as to not lose metered air.

napphappy wrote:I believe that resistor is for the ABS. So if you are still using your ABS you should find another one from a JY, and leave the original one hooked up.

The dropping resistor is for the automatic transmision.

Here's some pics

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... istor1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... istor2.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... istor3.jpg