legacycentral bbs

A friend is selling this on www.boston-motorsports.com what do you guys think, has anybody used it or a similar product on their leg?? DO you think there would be any problems?

You guys may remember me having this from back in the day. It wont work with the mini battery i want so i am selling it for $75.


suncoast auto has been making bootleg versions of them for a month now but its now coming over to the US market. I found out the owners live real close to me so i offered to meet them with a couple of other cars at Pruven Performance to do the comparasion of before and after product.

this is what the manufac. says:

1. Increase the efficiency of your starter motor / Stabilize your idle speed.
2. Increase the torque & gives you a smooth sensation while shifting gears/ maintain and stabilize your engine during high rotational speed.
3. Improve and reduce the knock(pre-ignition) from your engine/ increase your throttle response
4. Improve the efficiency of your fuel combustion so you can save more fuel/ Brighter your headlight.
5. Reduce the static from the audio and highly improve the tone quality.
6. Once you improve the efficiency of your fuel combustion, it reduces the capacity of the exhaust gas emission. So it will level down the pollutants from your car and improve our air quality.
7. Improve the efficiency of the engine and achieve the goal to save fuel by 5%~20% (The result may very, based on the individual driving behavior & the type and year of your vehicle.)
8. Stabilize the idle speed of your engine.
9. Reduce the vibration from the engine and have a better smooth-going performance.
10. To thicker the low-pitched sound (Bass) of your car audio.
11. The LED will show the precise voltage from your car battery. (*Functions will be differing by types.)

the UVD stands for ultra voltage device, it looks to me like a capaciator that goes between your battery pos and neg and your alternator or distributor, if you guys know me, you know i am skeptical of everything, but hey free dyno pulls? let me check it out. After taking it apart, its not a capaciator, its more like an amplifier/capaciator. I did a bunch of pulls at Pruven, with no fans or intercooler fans, pretty ridiculous, and the numbers show that 100 mph+ no airflow = angry smoking topmount

So after about 3 baseline pulls, getting the oil thinned out, uppipe hot, and letting it cool down 10 in between each pull, we bolted the UVD on my and did no other changes. For those who know i already run a pretty sorted out grounding kit AND an optima yellow top, so id consider myself well grounded.

this is the results of the same cool down and just bolting on the product!



i was pretty impressed by this, the dip at 5000 is timing getting pulled (3 degrees to be exact from my logs) due to NO AIRFLOW thanks pruven) otherwise is holds 10 whp and torque from spool up to 6000 rpms and would have kept going without timing pulled :wallbash:

A civic with an modded h22a went on and got similar gains. Pruven was SO impressed with my graph......they bought all they brought on the spot. I was pretty impressed with them and more as i was driving home with it.....

I was still skeptical, so i gave it a whirl on the way home. I made instant boost in 5th gear roll ons. The throttle response went from stiff throttle cable to a "drive-by-wire feel" my bass no longer hurts my idle or lights dimming, the spool up transition is so smooth and quicker, the car is so quiet idling, and it just feels like a new car all over again and top end feels stronger as it doesnt feel struggling or like its going to break up. Car starts on the first two clicks. I think they are a great product for people who have gotten all the other bolt ons and want a little more oomph.


looks similar to this with grounding strap seperately, and it shows the voltage of the battery






HERE IS THE VIDEO of me pulling on the dyno, notice the smoky intercooler

http://media.putfile.com/UVDmovietest[/QUOTE]

Zuh? I'm still trying to figure out WTF this product is supposed to be doing. And the dyno graph link no worky.

Edit: A sentence directly pulled from hypervoltage.com on this line of products:

"The Hyper Voltage System is designed to stablize the flow of voltage from the battery."

Voltage does not flow lmao.... current does. Is this just a voltage regulator and a capacitor, providing another power storage/distribution point in the vehicle? Because... just putting a beer-can cap (large cap) inline from your positive battery cable to your subwoofer amp(s) will eliminate most of the issues they speak of on their site caused by high-current audio systems (affecting idle/headlights/etc).

If these people are selling this line of products regularly, perhaps I'm in the wrong business.

we sell them with the grounding wires. we have ran just the wires on many different cars on the dyno, on average with a turbo car we saw anywhere from 7-15hp with wires alone not the box.

the voltage box regulates the voltage and keeps it stable instead of when your ideling with no acc's on at 14.4volts. then you turn on a/c or the IAC kicks on and sucks volts or your aftermarket stereo system, this acts like a capasitor and keeps the volts at 14.4 so you dont looks power for the coil/coilpacks to power the ignition system.

i ordered a set of the hyperground system called hot earth by sun automotive wires and box for my car.

i mean think about it it raises your gas milabe by atleast 2mpg, over time it pays for itself.

so you'd think it's worth it right? I just need to get a hold of the guy, would I need any set of extra grounding wires to go with it??? I am electrcial system retarded

Interesting... i didnt know maintaining the optimal 14.4V throughout the system at all times could be that beneficial. Still, the technical information found on their site leaves a lot to be desired.

wires are the main thing that helps.

The Scooby wrote:wires are the main thing that helps.

He hit the nail on the head. The best thing you can do for your electrical system is to run all new power and ground cables that are substantially larger than the factory ones. It also makes a huge difference in voltage drop if you run a much larger wire from the alternator to the battery (with just the stock electrical loads on, I measured close to 1V difference from the alt to the battery on my 92 Legacy!!!!). How big is big enough? It looks to me like the stock battery cables are around 4 ga, so I went ahead and put 00 ga cables (about the size of your thumb) in their place, and ran some nice 2 ga wire from the alternator. I have less than 0.02V voltage drop, the car cranks a lot faster, and there is no headlight dimming or anything like that.

I might be over-skeptical of products like this one, but I would be willing to bet that most of the difference comes from better cables causing less voltage drop.

That makes more sense. If one of the things this kit does is replace your power wiring, then that would explain things. That along with new ground wires, and a large capacitor inline to large loads (mainly amplifiers) would be the things to do.

snowman wrote:He hit the nail on the head. The best thing you can do for your electrical system is to run all new power and ground cables that are substantially larger than the factory ones. It also makes a huge difference in voltage drop if you run a much larger wire from the alternator to the battery (with just the stock electrical loads on, I measured close to 1V difference from the alt to the battery on my 92 Legacy!!!!). How big is big enough? It looks to me like the stock battery cables are around 4 ga, so I went ahead and put 00 ga cables (about the size of your thumb) in their place, and ran some nice 2 ga wire from the alternator. I have less than 0.02V voltage drop, the car cranks a lot faster, and there is no headlight dimming or anything like that.

I might be over-skeptical of products like this one, but I would be willing to bet that most of the difference comes from better cables causing less voltage drop.

I may have to try this....

Whe would one get high gauge wire?

low-gauge wire? (lower ratings = thicker, can carry more current)

Home Depot works for various wiring in a pinch, but we used to have a place called Skycraft in Orlando that had all kinds of wire for sale by the foot or by the reel.

That's what I meant......

0 gauge is about 3 dollars a foot if your lucky. you need to get some thats a car audio product but I dissagree that you even need 0 gauge in the first place. you only need heavier gauges over very long distances. the most your car could ever need would be 4 gauge. especially if your going the 2 feet from the alt to the batt. we are talking 14 volts with less than 80 amps of current folks. I'd have to loo it up but I think 4 gauge in any length in a car (up to 15' I think) is suggested to be fused at 150 amps.

I finally got around to installing this yesterday. The verdict is I love it, car starts better, runs smoother. Totally worth the $$75

I have the hyper ground wire kit on my BF Leggy and it made a noticeable improvement as previously stated above.
In addition, I installed the MSD Dis-2 instead of the Sun Box and the first gen. leggys respond favourably to the MSD Dis-2