legacycentral bbs

So,
Here's what's been happening recently on my SS. When I start the car, it will seem like it doesn't want to catch and fire up. During this, the oil light will stay on and will generally continue to be on for 1-2 seconds after it fires up. Sometimes it will also hold the "Check Engine" light at the same time as the oil light. This only happens when it's warm and it doesn't happen everytime. Any thoughts on what's failing? Is it the sender or is it the pump? ideas?

I would replace the sender first, since it's cheap and easy...


But honestly, it sounds to me like it could be an oil pump issue, because since the oil's viscosity is lower at a higher temp, it may be too thin for the pump to adequately circulate and provide needed pressure until 1-2 seconds into runtime...


I also could be totally wrong...

I would guess the same thing. Maybe the pump clearances have opened up.

You guys are thinking the same thing that I am thinking. It's got 170k on it, so it's totally feasible. If I am going to have to do an oil pump on this car, it's getting a different engine. I hate doing the pump with the engine in the car...

Matt Monson wrote: I hate doing the pump with the engine in the car...

Yeah, it looks like a total bitch

The pump itself doesn't seem like too bad of a job. Keeping it clean while in place looks to be the hard part.

555BCTurbo wrote:

Matt Monson wrote: I hate doing the pump with the engine in the car...

Yeah, it looks like a total bitch

It is. It's just too much of a challenge to clean and prep the mating face properly with the space you have to work with, even on a lift. I can do it, I just choose not to. But then I am one of those guys who usually pulls an engine for a timing belt job and does the rear main and seperator plate at the same time...

555BCTurbo wrote:

Matt Monson wrote: I hate doing the pump with the engine in the car...

Yeah, it looks like a total bitch

it isnt that bad.

i learned a trick for the little o-ring. use a tiny bit of spray adhesive to keep it in place while you put in the pump.

the real bitch is getting the t-belt back on while in the car. it helps to remove the rad fans and even the rad if you feel like draining the coolant. but if you are going to go that far you might as well jus tpull the engine.

Matt Monson wrote:

555BCTurbo wrote:

Matt Monson wrote: I hate doing the pump with the engine in the car...

Yeah, it looks like a total bitch

It is. It's just too much of a challenge to clean and prep the mating face properly with the space you have to work with, even on a lift. I can do it, I just choose not to. But then I am one of those guys who usually pulls an engine for a timing belt job and does the rear main and seperator plate at the same time...

this is of course the ideal way to do it if you have the time.

it is what i plan on doing to my SS when i re seal the engine this summer.

At this point it takes me an hour to pull the engine and an hour to put it back in. And I have a bad back that doesn't take well to all the bending and contorting to doing the work with the engine in the car. Even when I do timing belts with the engine in, I remove the radiator complete with fans. I have never encountered a timing belt change where I didn't also want to change the water pump and the coolant at the same time. I am anal like that...

Pulling the engine is definietly easier on your back. One reason I like working on boats better is not leaning over all day. I don't know how people do that for years on end.

Have you pulled the code to see what the check engine light is? What's the story on the engine? Any leaks? That sounds like normal to me for having 170k miles.

I personally feel that pulling an engine is much more tiring than doing a pump in the car, and takes like twice as long, especially in an older car. But you gotta do what you gotta do.

I'd be asking.....why is it holding the CEL on as well. Have you tried to measure what the oil pressure is....or is this just a beater car...?

The car is not a beater, but I do kind of consider this engine 'disposable'. the plan since I got the car was to remove the engine and replace it with an Ej20G while I rebuilt the Ej22T with forged internals. My current oilling woes are just pushing me towards that sooner rather than later.

I haven't measured the pressure. I should get a gauge and install it, but $$$ have been tight with the new house and new puppy. I don't really have any money for car toys right now, even if they are diagnostic and telemetry toys...

Hell, just do the 20g swap...

My brother and I swapped a Turbo Leggy from EJ22T to EJ20G in 11 hours last June...it ain't bad at all

The CEL is always on? I didn't read it that way, but if it is it could be bad bearings.

evolutionmovement wrote:The CEL is always on? I didn't read it that way, but if it is it could be bad bearings.

No, it's not always on, in fact, it doesn't come on everytime the oil light comes on. It only comes on about 1/3 of the time that the oil light comes on.

555BCturbo,
You guys are slow. I can do that job in 4-5 hours by myself...

Well,
I never diagnosed it, though I don't think it was anything catastrophic. I say this because the car saw me through nearly 50 hot laps at the track this last weekend. It did consume/spit out nearly 2 qts of oil, but never flashed the oil light a single time. And the coolant temp gauge did not move a single degree all day long. However, just plain lack of power and not wanting to hurt anything has motivated me to remove the engine and rebuild it. It's out. A '95 Ej20G w/vf29 should be in the car and running by the end of next weekend. I will use this thread to update what I am doing as I go along...

Matt Monson wrote:
555BCturbo,
You guys are slow. I can do that job in 4-5 hours by myself...

Oh, well excccccccccuuuuuuuuuuse me...

555BCTurbo wrote:

Matt Monson wrote:
555BCturbo,
You guys are slow. I can do that job in 4-5 hours by myself...

Oh, well excccccccccuuuuuuuuuuse me...

I will time it. I have probably cursed myself to some sort of hellish mishap with my comments...

Matt Monson wrote:
I will time it. I have probably cursed myself to some sort of hellish mishap with my comments...

Most likely

Hello,
It's been a while, but I have had some pics on my camera for more than a week. I will update current status after I post the pics and commentary...


Empty engine bay


Obvious reasons why the old tired engine needed to come out...

1995 Ej20G from 5MT sedan w/65k mi on it...


Ceramic coated vf29 turbo...


EJ20K manifold and TMIC awaiting the Ej22T harness and this:

Other upgrades to be done in the process ( Exedy clutch kit, rebuilt WRX front brakes, Goodridge lines, and Stromung DP)


STi Nardi Steering wheel to go with the GC seats...

And then just some picture wh0ring because I can...

Note rarely seen photos of the actual Ghetto Garage since some of you didn't believe it existed...

And one more of the Leggy and her shoes.


So, I have replaced the steering rack, tie rod ends, and bushings, after thoroughly cleaning the crossmember and engine bay. I have also installed the clutch kit onto the engine after removing the flywheel and inspecting the rear main and oil seperator. They were both fine and the plate was metal.

Now I need to installed the early headers with EL primaries (pics to be posted later) along with the uppipe. Once I do that, I am dropping the engine into the car tomorrow night.

Then the fun can begin. I will deal with fitting all the coolant, power steering, and vacuum lines with the engine in the car. I just think it's going to be simpler and cleaner that way...