legacycentral bbs

So the car runs and drives - it has a small bov issue that Im trying to fix, but it seems like the car is having a sporadic miss at idle.

For those who dont know - I just rebuilt the entire engine

ej22e block, new bearings, turbo pistons, dohc 2.5 heads, sti yellow injectors, 06 wrx i/c, and an adjustable volvo bpv. Im also using a k&n cone filter.

Im using an apexi safcII, j&s safeguard, and an msd dis2. This is all on a 93 legacy wagon and on an n/a ecu.

Is it possible the motor is advancing timing because im pulling 40% fuel through the entire range?

Should I bother to buy and wire in a turbo ecu, or should I get a timing retard control? The msd dis2 is only capable of retarding timing after 4k rpm....

I've heard of the ecu advancing timing when using a safc

As of today, im am not going to even turn the car on again until I have something to retard the timing.... I can hear the popping from the exhaust telling me something is going on in the engine.

I started reading a few mins ago and I read that a 15% correction is enough to allow any ecu to start advancing. I am at 43% right now....

Only problem, is what timing control to get????

I was running an Apex'i ITC for timing control with my safcII. They are pretty hard to find though. Is it possible you pulled too much fuel low in the rpm range?

Actually im getting a perfect 02 reading at idle. It does sound like I have a miss though at idle...

I can hear it even popping at idle.... Something is definately wrong with the setup - I dont think its the mixture though - unless one cylinder is really off...

Could the plugs not being gapped properly do this?

When I had no bov, the car ran decently other than the turbo making that terrible psht psht psht noise everytime I let off the gas. It was idling better too, but still not perfectly....

I dunno. The plugs are probably gapped smaller for a turbo car than for a n/a. I'm sure someone on here knows if they are different. If it's detonating, it's probably the n/a has more timing than the turbo ecu, then it's adding a little more because of the safc...

Yeah, thats what I figured.... Anyway, I bought a programmable dis2. Cant wait to install the thing and see if my car finally runs properly when I retard timing 25 degrees throughout.

25 seems like a lot but I don't know a lot about timing, I just kept playing with the controls until I got as much power as I could before detonation then turned it down a little to be safe lol.

I was told by a subaru tech that I should take out 20 degrees just for using the n/a ecu. On top of that Im pulling 43% fuel at idle. Im going to install my egt gauge soon so I can keep slightly better tabs on things....

The tech is also one of the most trusted local spt tuners.

Btw, thanks for the help.... Sometimes its tough to get responses on this board

I am not pulling ANY timing with my NA ecu. Except up top when I am running 28 psi....

I have run boosted on the NA ECU for 4 years now, never really pulling timing. I don't think thats it...

What fuel injectors are you using and are you using an intercooler?

Final build list....

Phase 1 2.5 open deck block with pinned cylinders
Phase 1 2.2 crank
Phase 2 connecting rods
STI pistons
ACL bearings
3 ply metal headgaskets (branded Subaru)
2.5 phase 1 heads mild port and polish - unknown what they are from, but they came with oil outs but no oil in (?)

Estimated compression is 7.2-1

Twin turbo intake manifold
1990 2.2 throttle body
820 cc modded STI 550 sidefeed injectors
3-1 Vortech rrfpr

2.5" intercooler piping
Modded large bore JECS MAF.
Big Ass Intercooler

Borla NA header
Custom uppipe and downpipe
2.5 exhaust for now

T3/T4 Garret/Precision turbo (GT30r equivilent)
Eaton M62 supercharger
Greddy "Trust" Manual boost controller

PerfectPower6 piggyback

Devils Own meth injection kit with progressive setup

3 bar MAP

I cant afford to risk a motor by not pulling timing - Im not afraid of losing a few horses or mpg if it means this motor will be saved in the long run....

Im not getting any codes.... Do you think I should start swapping sensors??? What else could it be???

I think Im going to try to swap the stock injectors back in and see if the car runs decently off boost that way...

Anyone know the max I can turn up the stock injectors with the safc II before the maf signal gets maxed out???