legacycentral bbs

I've done a lot of searching, and I've read the electrical book several times, but I'm still stumped!
I have several issues-fuel pump relay clicks all the time, radiator fan clicks on and off and boost sensor solenoid runs full time with key on power. The car cranks but does not start.
I have done everything I can think of to test various systems. I pulled the seat and checked both fuel pump plugs, and they both test fine. I get power at both, when the relay is on. I can hear the fuel swirling past the regulator and feel the lines swell when the pump clicks on. I cannot find a reason why it clicks on and off. I swapped in several other relays and it does the same thing. I checked resistance on all relays, power output everywhere, took the ECU covers off, tested grounds, etc and everything seems ok, but the relay just clicks away when the key is on!
The boost solenoid, I have no idea, but I'll work on it once the car is running.
The radiator fan seems to be synchronized with the fuel pump, but they have different ground triggers, so I'm not sure what the deal is there, but I'm not worried about it as much as the fuel pump relay.
I guess I can throw in the pump I got with the swap and see if the stock pump is not producing as much as it should, but that should not make the relay click?
For reference, this is a '92 SS with a '92 EJ20G. I converted the wiring harness over to EJ22T on the engine, and swapped all the sensors back to the US spec ones. The only thing that the EJ22T has that the 20G didn't is some little vacuum operated purge solenoid (blue plug, right side of IM). I don't have that hooked up, but I don't imagine that is the real issue here!
Any help from the pro's? This one has me baffled, and I do this sort of stuff for a living (part time atleast)!

even if it clicks on and off as long as there's pressure in the lines the engine will kick over and run for a few dozen revolutions before the pressure drops and it dies.

the fact that it's not doing this says something is wrong with your ignition; either your ignitor is toast; you're using the EJ22T engine harness with the EJ22E ECU harness (bad idea, wiring pins are all different); or your cam/crank sensors are shot...

Well, the car was an SS before, so the ECU and all wiring is the same, just have a new engine installed.
Here is what I've found today. All of the relays that just click away with the key on are - main fan, AC cut, pressure exchange solenoid, fuel relay-are all getting signal from F47 plug on the ECU. I checked the power supply for the ECU and the only one not within spec is the diode supply. I also checked the ECU ground wires, and all of them have continuity with the body. I'm thinking there is either something wrong with the ECU, or something has been changed around on the plug of F47. I have the EJ20G ecu, but didn't want to swap in the wires to run coil on plug, so that is why I converted back to coil pack and plug wires. I know I get spark, I tested those with an extra plug last night, and they work just fine when cranking. I checked the timing this morning by removing the RH timing cover and aligning everything, all is good there. I suppose I could just plug in the 20G ECU and see if those relays click? I know I won't get spark that way, but I can atleast know if the relay triggers are messed up internally or not.
What is the function of those relays? They should all just come on when triggered by the ECU, so if they are getting constant triggers, they will click on and off, like they are doing. The power supply to the ECU is not intermittent, so I know that is not the problem...This one has me fooled!!

Well, I plugged all the relays back in, stuck the EJ20G ECU in, and nothing changes! I did find one small piece in the stock ECU that looks like it melted, and the fusible link that was in the car was made of speaker wire, so I suspected some damage there. The piece on the ECU that looks damaged is not really obvious though, kind of hard to tell if it's melted, or just painted. I'll try to get some photos up soon.

Do you mean that those relays and solenoids click on and off at regular intervals (maybe once a second for the fan, A/C, and fuel pump, and maybe four times a second for the boost control solenoid)? Because that's what they're supposed to do if the ECU is in test mode. Are the green check connectors hooked up, perchance?

I think the clicking is a red herring. I think you just have a starting problem of some kind. You're missing one of air, fuel, or spark.

Are you using the EJ22T ignitor and ignition coil?

So I'm still fighting this thing! I've taken out the dash again, and split the wiring looms to look for damage. I did find a few cut wires, and now I get all my dash lights back. It sounds as though the engine cranks with no compression, and I'm going through all my other systems before I get to that check. I have spark, I have fuel, I replaced the ECU that had a smoldered chip in it. When I got the car, it had a self installed alarm, but I took all that mess out. I don't think that there would be anything that would be shutting the computer down, and if there were, I wouldn't be getting spark!
I tore off the timing belt covers and I checked the timing belt and all cam gears, everything is where it should be! I'm not getting any codes from the crank or cam sensors, so I'm thinking those are ok. I guess it's time to get a good compression tester and see if I don't have something wrong internally! This was supposed to be a 42K mi JDM engine, and it looked like it when I replaced the timing belt and resealed the oil pan, etc.
I'm stumped-anything else you guys normally check for?

If it sounds like there's no compression, that's probably not an electrical thing at all. Checking the timing belt is what I would have done too.

How do you know you have fuel?

Do let us know what the compression test reveals.