legacycentral bbs

So, the cheapo 95 wagon i found below still runs i guess, with a bad rod knock. I just need to get the thing to my place, 8 miles drive from where the car sits. I already have a good ej22 located. I just want to see if you guys think the rod knock will allow it to drive 8 miles? and thanks

should i try to pull the car here at idle, so as to not damage the tranny. or should i just drive it the 8 miles. How far will an engine last with something about to go? Oil looked good so did all other fluids including antifreeze.

any advice and thanks

Lol I think you can pull off 8 miles. People might give you a weird look, but ehh...


When my car threw a rod bearing, I drove it to work and back for 3 days and then I finally pulled the motor and rebuilt it.

Although, doing that completely f*cked my crankshaft....

Yeah, I sold my motor to a dude that I ran with a knock till it would go no further. He was not happy when he pulled it apart, but I had let him know what was up before hand, and told him he was better off goin stroker. He listened. He got that complete kit with the wiseco pistons, now hes gonna mate it to a 2001 RS and a gt42 with water/meth.
He said his goal was 400 at the wheels, with front, center and rear PPG's.

I'll believe it when I see it. I'm just stoked I got my 500 bucks for a blowed up extra motor.

$500 for a blown up motor!!! I can't get any offers for one that WAS running, but now torn down for head gaskets...

Maybe things just cost more in Alaska???

A friend of mine beat on a Cadillac with rod knock for a full day trying to kill the engine. It eventually blew, but that was after donuts, lots of WOT, and, near the end, a drained radiator.

drive it!

if it does let go part way home the tow will be cheaper!!!

Realisticly, get a bottle (or 2) of STP and throw in it before you head out. cheap insurance and it smells less offensive than 90wt in the motor (don't ask me how I know!!!, it involved a Vega).

Had a guy in North Carolina who had a Ford tow truck that had mainbearing rattle for over a year of HARD use, he bought STP in bulk and he'd add a pint with every quart of oil. When we pulled the motor down the mains were nothing but the steel shells and the rods weren't far behind, but the crank cleaned up at .010/.010, so we threw new bearings in it and buttoned it back up. When I left NC 2 years later it was still going....

It'll make it...it's a Subie

update.......i went to get the car today, and it blew up about 4-5 miles into the drive here. I pulled it the remaining 2-3 home with my wagon, going about 15-20 for that distance.

wow, the noise it was making, and then it lost power, i looked at the rearview mirror and it was a big cloud of smoke, haze, the cars behind were in fog lol

will be interesting on how to separate the motor from tranny since i won't be able to turn the crank to remove the torque converter bolts.

Bheinen74 wrote:update.......i went to get the car today, and it blew up about 4-5 miles into the drive here. I pulled it the remaining 2-3 home with my wagon, going about 15-20 for that distance.

wow, the noise it was making, and then it lost power, i looked at the rearview mirror and it was a big cloud of smoke, haze, the cars behind were in fog lol

will be interesting on how to separate the motor from tranny since i won't be able to turn the crank to remove the torque converter bolts.

did you remember to check the oil level before you started it?
you can let it sit for a while, add oil and hope the crank turns. it worked on an old 4.3 blazer we had.

Or you could disengage the clutch and turn the transmission, couldn't you?

vrg3 wrote:Or you could disengage the clutch and turn the transmission, couldn't you?

clutch = Manual
converter = automatic
yes there are clutches in an automatic, but disengaging them is kinda tough when the trans is fully assembled

Oh. I'm awesome at reading.

Just pull it out with the torque convertor on the flexplate. Keep it straight to the trans till it clears and all should be good.

Much easier than to try and get those bolts when it's still in the car.

I'd recommend removing the upper rad support to give yourself more clearance, If you pull it as one that is.

Just remove the radiator, put the car up on jack stands and then pull the engine AND transmission. Then you can do an engine and 5mt swap. Hehehe...

Arctic Assassian wrote:I'd recommend removing the upper rad support to give yourself more clearance, If you pull it as one that is.

That requires use of a sawzall

I was betting it would make it......

douglas vincent wrote:I was betting it would make it......

Same here.

Bheinen, were you driving slowly or were you kind of hard on it? I'm surprised it didn't last 8 miles...

I thought it would make it too.

So did you check that oil was topped off...?....

I thought i t would make it as well.

1. My legacy has a main bearing rattle and has for over a year..runs fine.

2. I drove my Nissan home, 25 miles through rush hour with a spun bearing and the knocking like a guy at the church doors with the devil on his tail. It died IN my driveway...lol.

i checked the oil level and it was okay to start.
I wasn't real hard on it, going about 10-15mph up hill (thats about all it would do), about 30 on the flats. I was going along about 30 and getting ready to get my digicam out to video the sounds it was making when it let go......
Oil was dripping/pouring out from under the motor on the gravel road i pulled/coasted off onto.
I never did get the sound clip...
I am gonna wait for warmer weather to see if i can try to move crank in reverse direction....unless i sell the car before i ge the chance.