legacycentral bbs

i have a 94 ej22t with 93 na block . now when the car is cold it will roast the tires off of it but when it warms up the car might be lucky to beat a stock honda civic si. i was wondering is my car isnt getiing enough air or fuel to the motor maybe the turbo is bad. when i swaped the blocks the turbo had hardely any play in it and felt rather good but i had a mechanic tell me that it could have play in it when the car warms up because the metal expands when hot. but my downpipe isnt hooked up to the cat.converter. also he said that the downpipe may be bad on the car. so as far as you guys can tell what do you guys think is up?

Please don't abuse your engine by pushing it hard when it's cold.

Is it possible you're overstating the issue? To some degree this is normal for our engines. When they're cold, they're ingesting denser, colder air, so they can burn more fuel.

What do you mean by "hardly any play?" In-out play, or side-to-side play?

side to side

but would our engine be so slow that a nissan sentra could beat me?

Depends. A new Sentra SE-R Spec V, for example, ought to be able to spank a Legacy Turbo, especially if it's been thrashed like yours.

How's your fuel economy?

And again, is it possible you're exaggerating somewhat? Our cars aren't exactly world-class accelerators. The current base model Impreza makes more power than a first-generation Legacy Turbo.

no just a sentra se, and on gas mileage it sucks, and acceleration is the only thing its good at ive tried my best and have never got it about 105mph

Sounds like a rod will soon be knocking on your door.

That's what I'm thinking.

Before your car has warmed up fully, it runs in open or closed (I can't remember which) loop mode. Basically it means that your car won't perform a self diagnosis on itself until it's is fully warmed up.

It sounds like your car runs fine, but then once it performs the self-check, it's pulling the timing. A bad knock sensor or rod knock will cause this...

Is your check engine light on?

I guess the glaring question I have is....what do you mean you have a 94 ej22t with a 93 na block? Are you just using the two case halves from the 93, or what exactly do you mean?

Also, I'd look into replacing/checking the coolant temp sensor.

Its an ej22 block with ej22t heads i blew a rod out of the ej22t block on christmas and had the new ej22 block redone at a machine shop as the same with the heads so i know its not a rod they are brand new. my thought is a sensor, or something electrical also when my car warms up my head light doesnt work and the cd player, and the auto seat belts stop working as well and the CEL is not on (works but not on)

What......those electrical things happen when it warms up..?

You've got a short or something weird going on.

vrg3 wrote:Depends. A new Sentra SE-R Spec V, for example, ought to be able to spank a Legacy Turbo

Oh, they can!

vrg3 wrote:The current base model Impreza makes more power than a first-generation Legacy Turbo.

To be completely accurate, you'd have to say "rated".

GC 2.5RS's are rated at more power than our cars and weigh less. They are nowhere as "fast" as an SS... anywhere. From a stop, highway speeds wherever. So the scales are way wrong or the published horsepower.

My guess is a cracked knock sensor. I can't think of anything else that would pull timing like that once the car warmed up. I'd replace that first.

Brat4by4 wrote:

vrg3 wrote:The current base model Impreza makes more power than a first-generation Legacy Turbo.

To be completely accurate, you'd have to say "rated".

GC 2.5RS's are rated at more power than our cars and weigh less. They are nowhere as "fast" as an SS... anywhere. From a stop, highway speeds wherever. So the scales are way wrong or the published horsepower.

The ratings and scales are fine. The key factor here is that the EJ22T makes peak torque at 2800rpm and it's higher down there than in the EJ25's entire powerband, and it still revs to 6500rpm like the EJ25. So while the EJ25 is in-fact more powerful for a VERY small window (probably from 5700 - 6500), from idle to over 5000rpm or so the EJ22T is making way more power

It's all about area under the curve........

Water temp sensor needs to be swapped out and eliminated as a problem source.

IronMonkeyL255 wrote:It's all about area under the curve........

In fact, both are true. Area under the curve and EJ22T Mustang dyno ratings are waay too high for only 160 hp.

On topic: And there is no way anyone can diagnose the OP's problems until he gives all the info on his electrical problems!