legacycentral bbs

Im a new member i have a 1990 legacy gt with the i think import ej20g engine

questions on my manual conversion
i have found the park/key release side of things i have a bg5 gearbox for my legacy with the normal neutral and reverse plugs now i would like to know wat i have to wire/plug them into and also with the change sumbody told me that i need to remove the auto trans computer is that true ? if so is this the box sitting on the firewall side of the ecu close to the same size as ecu box ?

i also found the shift lock box si there anything i need to do with that
i have read the conversion guide but am still a little confused is there anything i have missed ? if so update me

all help would be highly appreciated

Cheers

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... html#start

You shouldn't need the auto trans TCU or the shift lock box, so remove both.

is the auto TCU the other box slightrly smaller than the ecu

ok got the car running today

i have used a dash cover plate with the fuel and water temp from an NA1800 legacy i was just wondering if it is the same as the turbo ? i got it started and warmed up and the gauge showed roughly 1/3 - 1/2 on the temp gauge is that right for ej20 turbo engine or is this temp gauge wrong cos it felt hot but it didnt smell like it was to bad


also i have the dash in and the check engine light comes on and when u rev it the light disappears and then reappears also this happened sometimes after rev and the engine is slowing to idle ne ideas

I'd have to look at a wiring diagram, but the dash gauges should be the same or similar.

You could try unplugging the single sensor gauge wire and see if the dash temperature gauge goes to "cold"

Check the ECU for codes.

ok today i check the codes i got number 23 Air flow sensor voltage so i took the safc off and it was fine then i adjusted the idle back down to 800rpm and i got the code 22 knock sensor adnormal voltage is this normal at low rpm ??

i still havnt tried the temperature yet i have an oil temperature gauge tapped into the rear bung above righthand rear cylinder

if i use that wat temperature in degrees C approx what should i see on my gauge at idle -1500rpm? i looked at my two gauge clusters and the temp sensor from the na and the auto turbo have different numbers on the back i broke the turbo 1 by accident lol

How did you adjust the idle?

You shouldn't have to adjust the idle. It sounds like the ECU is still in "AT" mode. Did you snip the AT/MT identifier pin?

Either way, the idle shouldn't affect the knock sensor....

ok on the throttle body where the cable pulls the throttle open i just woundd the spring loaded screw in a little but when it dropped back it came on a couple times and then went off after i changed it back to 800rpm it idles fine now

i have definetly cut the trans id cable its above/below the air flow signal i needed for my safc

anyways can somebody give me a value i should be looking at on the oil temp gauge in rear allen key bung at idle after being warmed up

ok more questions

i have an oil temp boost and AFR gauge autogauge is the brand they r all connected to the same + , - and dimmer from the auto shifter light

the + is from a custom harness that includes the turbo timer

the + power comes from the ACC and is - grounded on the radio surround mount

i warmed the car up today and it had the weirdest readings

i know that the water was around the temp for the thermostat to open i was holding the pipe 77*c

boost i close to wat it should be i think
but the oil temp wat off the clock its read from right hand rear top bung
and the AFR was weird to not blinking rich lean rich etc jst randomly on lean for a bit then u give it a tap on the gas and rich for a bit
the AFR is tapped into 6 on b48 on the ecu ( white wire)
this was running and then when i put my foot on the clutch the values changed again

not running in the on position the oil read 90*c
and in the acc its read 82* c

have i wired the gauges up to the wrong power or ground ? i am very confused

gtlegacy wrote:ok on the throttle body where the cable pulls the throttle open i just woundd the spring loaded screw in a little but when it dropped back it came on a couple times and then went off after i changed it back to 800rpm it idles fine now

Yeah...that's not supposed to be messed with

yea i have sorted that out gosh im getting frustrated with it aye can anybody help ?

To be honest, I can not follow what you've done with the gauges, or what inputs are available for the gauges, etc.

There's absolutely no point to run an AFR gauge with a narrow band O2 sensor. It tells you absolutely nothing. Unless you like seeing the lights flash back and forth, that's about all it's going to provide you.

The oil temp gauge, is meant for a specific sensor. Did you install a separate oil temp sensor?

I have installed the sensor i got with the gauge


the power for all gauges is wired into the ACC on the key circuit

but ... in different clicks on the key and running it shows different values on all gauges

the voltage from ON and ACC on the key is 14.4v when the car is running and 12v when not is it possible that this is my problem ??

where should i get my 12v supply from for the gauges? it says from ignition 12v+

????

The voltage you list is fine.

ok so that is where i should wire the gauges in ? because when the car is running they all shit

What does the gauge instructions say to use?

+12v battery (always on)
+12v ignition (on when key is in the ON pos)
+12v accessory (on when key is in the ACC & ON pos)

Second, what do the gauges need this power for?

Illumination, reference voltage, something else?

What brand & model gauges are you using? Can you find the instructions for the gauges online? Without the instructions or knowing what input the gauges want, there's very little we can do to help.

More then likely the gauges are incorrectly hooked, which is why you're having problems.

ok the boost has

Battery +
Engine ground -
Ig switch 12v+
Dimmer

also it has another fitting to the boost sensor with red black and white white is sensor reading the sesnor is teed from the intake between the blow off valve

the bat+ and Ig switch + are wired into the same ACC
power

the oil temp has

Ig Switch + 12v
Battery -
Oil Temp Signal
Dimmer

the sensor also has a ground which i connected to one of the 4 bolt thats holds the throttle body on ( it has a signal and - )

the AFR has

Ig Switch 12v+
Battery -
o2 Signal taped into ECU wire
Dimmer


id say that the boost gauge needs the power to light up and power for the sensor to read

the AFR to light up
and the oil temp ????

I'm assuming these are electronic gauges.

Where the guage calls for battery 12v+, you need to hook that up to a 12v constant. Something that has 12v regardless of the position of the ignition key. Where it calls for igntion 12v+, you need to hook it up to a 12v source that is present when the key is in the ON position.

I don't quite understand why the battery - is there. That is more or less ground.

Any chance of getting some pictures, or info on the gauges, make & model?

Also, so you added a separate boost sensor? As well as a separate oil

yes electronic and yes the boost and oil temp sensors came with the gauges Brand Autogauge they r 60mm smoke gauge series

and pictures of what ?

Pictures of the gauges and your wiring.

Is there a model # or anything on the gauge? Do you have the instruction manual for the gauges?

i have added links to each of my gauges

BOOST
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 491923.htm

AFR (mine is the same except it doesnt have the warning light function
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 227428.htm

OIL TEMP
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 894452.htm

i have changed it so the the boost gauge gets constant to the red and ACC from key goes to white

i didnt try the boost gauge it was disconnected at the time but the oil temp did the same thing as last time was high like 20 -25 degrees above the on position and the ACC was about 10 lower again

while the AFR stayed at lean and didnt move at all until the car was warmed up and started to move a little bit between lean and just right

i also noticed when i was playing with my 5 dial apexi safc that at idle when i changed the 800rpm dial to lean it showed really rich and stumbled really bad and the opposite for the other way