legacycentral bbs

SO I went to the junkyard and got a new connector for the crank sensor. Wired it in, and now I have spark. However, the car still doesnt start.

How do I test the injectors? I know im getting fuel from the pump. While checking codes I still get code 11 for the crank sensor.


-Brian

Check the wire maybe? did you reset the ECU by unplugging the battery for about 1 hour? Did you check the timing belt as well could have skipped a tooth or two or broke.

Check which wire? There are hundreds. Do I need to reset the ECU? And it has a new timing belt...

The wire for the crank sensor. I don't think the code goes away right away. So I am assuming you replaced the timing belt not someone else. It is possible you didn't set the belt correctly. Maybe do a compression test to check.

I checked, rechecked and checked again when installing the timing belt to make sure all marks on the belt lined up with the marks on the crank, and each cam sproket.

If the ECU stores a code for the Crank Sensor, does that mean it will not try to retrieve signal from it until the ECU is reset?

I don't think so. Just reset it though. Like I said if you want to be 100% do a compression test for each cylinder and see if maybe one is way off. Go over ALL the connections as well, then again you have gotten a code if something was unplugged.

I don't believe that the code being present will prevent it from using the sensor. But we need to consider the possibility that the code is actually fresh and that the sensor is still bad. You said you just replaced the connector, and not the entire sensor?

You're getting spark, but can you tell if you're getting spark every time?

Also, is the engine kicking and trying to start, or is it just spinning as if there were no spark at all?

Did you reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake pedal for 30 seconds?

Yes I disconnected the - on the battery and had my foot on the brake for 30seconds (probably more like a minute or two) and when I reconnected the battery the ECU still flashed code 11. Even w/out cranking the motor over or anything. So i dont know if it cleared the code.

So i disconnected the battery and left it off for the last 4hrs. Went back into the garage and same thing, code 11.

I didn't replace the sensor, just the plug. I checked and made sure i got yellow to yellow, black to black and white to white.

I then went out and unplugged my cam sensor and tested, and now im getting code 11 and code 13. I shoulda grabbed a sensor when I was at the junkyard, but didnt think I'd need it.

Im wondering if maybe my timing belt is off??? Would it throw code 11 if my timing belt wasnt installed correctly? Thats kinda why I pulled the cam sensor, to see if it would see the crank sensor without the cam sensor.

The car does not attempt to fire at all. Just cranks and cranks. I used a spark tester to check for spark and it looks solid and steady. Spraying ether in the intake manifold didnt help, but i didnt use much. And only tried once. I have the intercooler off so the MAF isnt in the loop... but i thought it would run in a failsafe mode w/out the MAF?

Oh.

No. You definitely need the MAF sensor installed. Without it, you will get no fuel.

Its plugged in and installed, just no air flow passing through it.

That's not installed, dude. Would you say your fuel pump was installed if you plugged it into the harness and lay it on your back seat instead of putting it in the fuel tank?

Install it. The EJ22T does not have a failsafe mode that allows it to run without the MAF sensor properly measuring the air entering the engine.

kk thanks i'll give it a shot.

Tomorrow tho, i have another splitting headache and im not going back into the garage.

Egh, that sucks man... have you had those headaches checked out?

Naw i havent, but since the motors been back in they have been more frequent. I hope its just frustration.

Tomorrow I hope to have no headaches and a running car.

If I may offer you some unsolicited non-car-related advice -- drop by your primary care physician and have him/her check it out.

You probably know all this, but: even if stress isn't the cause, it's certainly not helping. But things you can do to help include sleeping well and staying very well hydrated. If your urine isn't as clear as gin, you should be drinking more water.

There's also a kind of neat homeopathic remedy based on Ayurvedic teachings -- a capsaicin balm. Melt a quarter cup of petroleum jelly and stir in a tablespoon of cayenne pepper powder. You can keep the stuff in a little jar practically forever. Then, when you've got a headache, massage a little bit of it onto your forehead and temples. Get someone else to apply it for you if you can.

The feeling is kind of intense, but after about fifteen minutes you are likely to find that the heat of the pepper has opened your capillaries, increased circulation, and relaxed your headache away.

Also helps to drink room temperature water.

Ok day 2 (well, week 3... but anyhow).

I reconnected my INtercooler, made sure everything was plumbed and connected tight. Tried starting the car and get nothing.

I used the Laptop again with VRG's scan tool software. My injector pulse does not change at all with the cranking of the motor. Nor does my IAC valve. Everything else seems to be reacting. Timing drops to 15 degree's and stays there when cranking.

Last night I disconnected my Cam sensor and forced it to throw code 13. So now my ECU is flashing code 11 & 13. After several attempts to clear the ECU (by disconnecting the batt, and sitting on the brake) it still shows code's 11 & 13, even tho I have reconnected the cam sensor.

This makes me think the code 11 its flashing is the same ole code 11 ive been getting before I repaired the crank sensor.

Regardless... still not getting fuel... what am I missing? IM trying to do some searching to figure out what the ecu uses to sense and open each injector... but im drawing a blank.

Did you install your MAF sensor yet? You will never get your engine to start without it.

Yeah, its connected and everythign is installed propperly.

Maf signal varies with the cranking of the motor, per your scan tool... so I know its doing something.

You said you know youre getting fuel from the pump. how do you know? Did you pull a line off the fuel filter and stick it in a bottle then go crank the car?
To check injectors, just pull a plug after cranking, there should be fuel on it. or have someone sit in the car and crank the motor while you sit with a stethoscope on each one. If it ticks, it opens and closes.

Yeah, i pulled the hose and witnessed fuel comming from the supply line.

I dont have another set of hands, im doing this on my own. Or else I would have someone crank the motor while listening to the injectors.

here's what alldata says.
check crank sensor
-not ok- replace sensor.
-ok- check harness between sensor and ecu.
check harness between sensor and ecu
-not ok- repair harness
-ok- repair ecu terminal poor contact/ replac ECU.

To check the crank angle sensor, check voltage between pins on it. If it varies at all, synchronously, it's good.

CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN ECU AND CRANK ANGLE SENSOR



Disconnect ECU and crank angle sensor connectors.
Measure resistance between ECU and crank angle sensor connectors as follows:
Connector & terminal: Resistance:
(B58)4-(B18)1 0 Ohm
(B58)5-(B18)2 0 Ohm
(B58)6-(B18)3 1 Ohm max.

Measure resistance between crank angle sensor and ground as follows:
Connector & terminal: Resistance:
(B18)1-Ground 1M Ohms min.
(B18)2-Ground 1M Ohms min.

Connect ECU connector and measure resistance between crank angle sensor connector terminal (B18)3 and ground. It should be 1 Ohm maximum.
Disconnect cam angle sensor and measure resistance between connector terminal (B17)3 and ground. It should be 1 Ohm maximum.


If all of this fails, get a new computer.

I was reading through the .pdf's on the timing belt install again. And im second guessing my installation.

The guide tells you about the marks on the crank, however it indicates a mark on the backside of the sprocket. I read both PDF's and it didn't clearly indicate which mark on the face of the sprocket to use.

I whipped up this image here to help explain what I did:


I see 2 additional marks on the face of the sprocket. One looks to be an arrow, the other is looks like "ND" or "N?" And the other is just a mark, which looks like it corresponds with a mark on the backside of the sprocket.

I marked the image with "This Mark" showing the mark I used when aligning the lines on my timing belt. Im almost 110% positive I didnt use the Arrow.

Im going to bring my compression tester home with me from work, along with my multimeter to do some further testing but I have a feeling Im going to have to pull the radiator and check the belts.

Yeah, you want to use the mark on the back of the timing gear, NOT the arrow

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_2728.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... P_4984.JPG

Josh your sprocket looks alittle different than mine. Mine had a small mark on the face that looks like the one in the picture I posted.

I can clearly see the mark in your picture, but doesnt look like there is anything on the face of the sprocket. I guess I'll just have to pull the covers and check to see if the mark I used is the correct one.