legacycentral bbs

ok so some how im missing a wire or maybe something fried... a couple friends and i have been working on the wiring so not sure where we went wrong but the motor starts and sounds good but it wont idle and when i run a low rpm it runs rough... IAC valve? ive been tring to find pics and reading where it is or what it looks like so i can check it.... also read maybe a ground wire? searched for vac leak, tested many other things now im here asking and hoping someone can lend some great info... motor ran and drove before i pulled it however im not running the gauge cluster and maybe their is a wire that needs connected????

The IAC is on the manifold under the TPS on a EJ22T. It has a large-ish hose going to it.

Check all grounding. Make sure you have the trans ID pin on the ECU set correctly (no-connection, IIRC). You already mentioned air intake leaks, triple-check that.

Codes?

Make sure you have the trans ID pin on the ECU set correctly (no-connection,IIRC) maybe this is my problem????? touring wagon harness/ecu...
unfortunatly car is not near computer to check at moment...

im not planing to use the gauge cluster but i have tried to hook it up so i could check codes.. something not rite their either.. tried to find wire diagram for the cluster so i could figure that out... maybe just set up a led instead...

If it's a touring wagon harness, it would currently be set up for an automatic.

Do some research in the "auto to manual swap" threads to find the wire you need to deal with. I *think* it's a simple matter of finding the correct one and snipping it.

You don't need the gauge cluster. Just hook up a light or LED to the Check Engine output pin of the ECU.

I would get the ECU light hooked up and check for codes. It could be something simple.

so use pin B56.15 trouble code output??? hook a light to that and ground it? she wants to run.. i bet its sumthing dumb! curious what "TI monitor" "MIL" "VSS" "Jurisdiction ID" "Select Monitor (TX)" "Select Monitor (RX)" all are .... i dont know everything but this is indeed my first fuel injected SWAP... i need all the help i can get !!! thanks!!!!

MIL usually means Malfunction indicator light. AKA, check engine light.

VSS is Vehicle speed sensor.

Jurisdiction ID, I think is the transmission ID pin.

Select monitor pins are for the Subaru diagnostic tool.

ok....... awesome..... thanks isnt the trans ID plug B48 pin 20??

Beaut

The Check engine light is F47.19 for the N/A ECU, and I think its the same for turbo. Connect a check bulb between F47.19 and ground.

The read memory connector (AKA the black connector) is B56.12. I think all you need to do is ground it. Then turn on the ignition (engine off) and the check bulb should start flashing.

The test mode connector (AKA the green connector) is B56.13. If you ground that one along with grounding the read memory connector you can perform additional diagnosis, as well as reset the ECU codes.

If you brought your harnesses over cleanly from the donor car, there should be a pair of black connectors and green connectors that are disconnected that are part of the ECU harness close to the ECU. If you connect them you will get the same effect as grounding the pins I mentioned above.

Again, connect the black pair or ground B56.12 and turn the ignition key on to see the codes.

Minor correction. The ECU grounds the check engine light to turn it on. To hook the circuit up properly I think you need to hook one end of the bulb to F47.19 and the other end to +12.

Also, the transmission ID pin is B48.20.

Question: Where did you read that B56.15 is the trouble code output? I don't think B56.15 is used.

ive been following this..

http://legacycentral.org/library/ECU_Landscape.htm

Are you going to use any kind of speed sensor?

This will not prevent starting or cause rough running, but the guys putting Subaru engines into VW vans have run into problems if they don't rig up some sort of vehicle speed sensor... the motor tends to stall when the vehicle slows to a stop.

Fixes include a Hall effect sender w/ a metal star wheel attached to a CV joint flange, hacking the speedo, or even just running a constant, electronically-generated pulse signal to the ECU, there's a few companies selling a little pulse/tone generator for about $40.

Not absolutely necessary, but the ECU is happier if it sees a speed input at B58.11 VSS

That diagram has the same pinouts as mine. Still not sure though what B56.15 does. That is not on my diagram, and mine, I believe is from the FSM. It may perform a similar function to F47.19

I figured it out. B56.15 goes to the select monitor connector which you would hook a scanner up to. Focus connecting a lamp to F47.19 and +12. Then connect the black connectors

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... rical1.jpg

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... rical2.jpg

aerotech.. thanks i had no idea about that.. reminds me of a friends wagon with same type problem

ok i want to break it down as to what ive done perhaps this mite help??? exterior wallbro 255 fuel pump.. one thing that happened was i installed a return line and connected the "vapor line?" to what i thought was a vapor line back to the tank.. but gas spued out of the vapor canister and i knew i had to flip those hoses got that figured out but wondering if i could have fd up canister purge valve?? would it make my car run horribly?

and i dont have a turbo radatior so the small hose is pluged off..

i may have cut out a diode or relay that i could need...

i know this one is getting messy.. i would have done thigs differently but that is unfortunaly a whole different story..

please and thank you i need the help BAD!

Do you have access to a fax machine? I can send you a copy of the instructions & wiring diagrams for the VW conversion... it's a simplified wiring harness, only the wiring needed to run the motor.
If not I'll try to find a scanner to send an e-mail copy.

P-mail me.

Canister purge valve will not effect how the car runs. You need to hook up the SES light!

i know... i wish i had it here.. when i pluged it the two green plugs a bunch of my sensors would trip on and off.. and the black plugs were cut so i need to splice those back in.. any 12v led should work fine rite??

Any 12 volt source will do. To read the codes, only connect the black connectors. You do not need to connect the green connectors.

If the car runs why are fidling with the CEL with thecar off? Why dont you plug in the green connectors that do the same thing with the engine running, unless im totally wrong?

it runs just not well.. keeping it running is not that easy and when i plug the green ones together damn near all the relays trip on and off.. so i dont even think it would run like that