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I was reading the haynes manual for the procedure of installing the water pump and oil pump and for the oil pump it says to use Anaerobic Gasket Sealant. I've never seen anything called this before. I have a tube of Permatex black RTV silicone gasket maker, would that work?

What do I use to seal the oil pump to the block? What do I use to seal the water pump gasket to the pump and the block? Any specific brands or type of sealant?

The Subaru Service Manual says to use Three Bond 1215 or equivalent for the oil pump.
http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/s ... 0list.html

If you have this, it should be ok

http://www.permatex.com/products/automo ... _Maker.htm

For water pump, use a new gasket and no sealant.

I recommend Permatex "Right Stuff", in a self-dispensing black can, a bit smaller than a soda can.

This sealant is incredible, almost no cure time, seals up anything except gasoline. You get about 5 minutes work time after you lay the bead.
I used this on the oil separator plate on the back of the engine block a few years ago, when I tried to remove it again, it was quite a job. It was an old plastic one too, never leaked a drop.

I recommend even though it states you can put it right into service, to let it set for a few hours before doing so.

Alright, can I just use any gasket sealer on the water pump gasket?

kimokalihi wrote:Alright, can I just use any gasket sealer on the water pump gasket?

The water pump uses a metal crush gasket. No liquid gasket.

I use loctite 574 on the oil pump, oil pan, and case halves.

Are you doing a timing belt without a manual? If you are, bad panda, no bamboo!

Haha! I don't have the factory service manual. I have the haynes book...It says to use "Anaerobic" gasket maker or sealant. I'm not sure what that is. Never heard of it. It says to use gasket sealer on the water pump gasket too.

So you're saying don't use anything on the water pump gasket? It's not a regular gasket like you said. It's metal I believe. Has a ridge in the middle that goes all the way around.

Do you know that you can download the factory stuff for FREE from our host?

No sealer on water pump. Haynes has lots of mistakes in it.

Anaerobic sealant means that it will dry and cure in an air free environment. There are a dozen of them with essentially the same properties, though some are designed for exposure to high heat and others are not.

Uh. Ultra Gray silicone or the three-bond suby stuff.

This one time I sealed it by yelling at it.

random input: probably one of the best aluminum case sealers out there, is Yamaha's Yamabond. It is ridiculously good. Used for a lot of 2-stroke applications, it is made to resist gas, oil, etc etc...

now back to your regularly scheduled thread.

Matt Monson wrote:Do you know that you can download the factory stuff for FREE from our host?

No sealer on water pump. Haynes has lots of mistakes in it.

Anaerobic sealant means that it will dry and cure in an air free environment. There are a dozen of them with essentially the same properties, though some are designed for exposure to high heat and others are not.

I downloaded the parts manual but didn't see a factory service manual. I'll have to look for that because it would really help to have it. I'm going to buy a set of factory service books when I get some money.

OK I went to autozone and they did not have the Permatex Anaerobic sealant nor did they have the ThreeBond stuff. All they had was RTV silicone sealant which I already have(the black ultra high temp stuff)and The Right Stuff one minute sealant. So I got the right stuff and just went out in my garage and installed the oil pump and water pump and front crank seal.

The haynes manual said to torque the oil pump to 60 inch lbs. So I did, even though it felt kinda weak. It says to torque the water pump 85-120 inch lbs. Why the hell would you put that in a service book?! That's a big difference. Which one is it? Do you do 85 or 120 or right in the middle or what? I bet that's not even right. I downloaded the factory service manual on this site just a little bit ago and could not for the life of me find any torque specs so I torqued it to 120 inch lbs. Now I have to go to work.

Are the torque specs in that factory service manual and I'm just not seeing them?

Does anyone happen to know the correct torque specs?[/quote]

Those sound correct. Make sure your reading it properly....INCH/pounds..... not the usual FOOT/pounds. Those 6mm bolts won't handle 100 ft/lbs.

Yep, I bought a craftsman inch lb torque wrench specifically for torqueing engine bolts.

The bolts will hold a lot but the aluminum block will not. I found that out the hard way on my Chevy Metro. Had to pull the motor to helicoil those damn bolt holes for the oil pump.

I wouldn't use silicone on any part of the oil system it can starve parts of oil if some gets free in the system and cause some bad issues.

I've used Permatex Ultra grey for the oil pump, separator plate, on top of the water pump gasket, and the block halves(four times) without issue. Granted it sat overnight each time. I've never had a problem though.


The amount you use seems to have more of an effect than anything.