legacycentral bbs

Ok so a few weeks ago, I did a timing belt job on my EJ22, which was much needed. After the job, the car ran much better. A few days ago, my car started acting funny again; pretty much exactly the way it was acting before I did the T-belt job.

So I've come to the conclusion that 1 of 2 things has happened. Either: 1. I installed the belt incorrectly (i.e. the No. 1 cylinder was at TDC of exhaust stroke intead of compression stroke?) OR 2. The timing belt hydraulic tensioner adjuster is bad and is not keeping proper tension on the belt, causing it to skip a tooth. I'm thinking the latter problem is more likely, since the car ran great for a week or two, and then just suddenly started acting up again.

So I started digging around, looking for a new tensioner, just in case that's the problem. I found them on ebay, I found them on several OEM parts web sites, as well as junk yard search engines. But not one single one costed less than $100. I don't happen to have 100 "extra" dollars right now, so I dug around some more.

Then I found this web site:

http://www.automotivebearings.net/

This is the direct purchase link to the Joyku Corp. web site. They are in Taiwan and they manufacture original, OEM timing belt tensioner adjusters for the EJ22 engine (OEM Part #13068-AA051). I emailed the company, and a representative there said that I could order one directly from them for $54. ($29 for the part and $25 shipping from Taiwan to Utah). And they use Paypal, which makes it even easier.

If it comes down to it, since I am terribly piss-poor at the moment, I will probably still go to the junkers to get a tensioner for $5 that looks like it's in good shape, but I thought I would let yall know about this, since it's half the price as anywhere else I've seen them. And it sucks when an important part needs replaced, but you can't get an OEM replacement without paying out the arse.

i.e. the No. 1 cylinder was at TDC of exhaust stroke intead of compression stroke?)

I doubt that's your problem because your engine would probably not run at all if this were the case.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it just jumped a tooth.

It would absolutely run if cylinder 1 was in exhaust. In fact, that wouldn't make a difference at all. The cylinder pairs are phased 180 degrees apart, which means that cyls. 1 & 2 will be at TC (one in compression, the other in exhaust) at the same time and 3 & 4 will be at BC as well. That's how the waste spark ignition is able to work—the pairs of coils fire at the same time (1&2, 3 &4) so that 1 cyl. in a pair is getting a spark in compression, the other in exhaust (hence "waste" spark). The only thing that matters is that the marks are lined up where they're supposed to be, which would put cyls. 1 & 2 at TC.

I would bet it's a bed tensioner. But be warned about a used part—they might look good, might compress fine in a vise, but could still fail in short time (as you seem to have found yourself). I know from experience. That's a real good deal on a new one if the quality's good and still cheaper than buying yet another one and paying for a tow if a used one fails on you.

Yeah, I'm pretty leary about using a used one, but, as I said before, I'm TERRIBLY piss-poor at the moment, so it's kinda my only option right now. Besides, it's not really that much work to put a new tensioner in and re-align the belt, so if the used one fails, I will just take it apart again and put a new OEM tensioner on. In fact, I think that even if the used one works fine, I will still order a new one from Joyku when I can afford it. That way I can just have it on "standby", or just put the new one in next time I have the front end ripped apart (i.e. when I replace the water pump).

Also, I saw on ebay that some companies offer timing belt "kits" that include a new t-belt, new tensioner and tensioner pulley, 2 new idler pulleys, new accessory drive belts, and a new water pump with gasket, all for like $190. This seems like it would be the way to go if you can afford it and you're doing a t-belt job anyways.

Also, I've read that a good way to hold your crankshaft in place while tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt is to put the tranny in 5th gear (if you have a manual tranny, of course). Is this true? I have never tried it, but it sounds much easier than the method I used last time (jamming a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth through the access hole in the bell housing).

That's not a bad deal for the whole lot as the pulleys can go bad too. At this point in the cars' lives, it's good insurance.

You could put it in fifth and that should work fine, but I use the flywheel myself as it seems less stressful to the components.

Just curious, how long did you take in compressing the tensioner down for installation? It takes me about 15 minutes, and have never had one fail.



Just trying to eliminate possibilities.

Well, I took a good 10 minutes to compress it. I'm not really sure if the tensioner is even bad, because I think the only way they can fail is if there's too much pressure (from compressing it too fast) and then the pressure plug will blow out the rear of the tensioner. But this hasn't happened. Does any one else know of any way that these tensioners can go bad, besides blowing up due to exess pressure?

Has anyone ever had their timing belt slip or skip a tooth, even though the tensioner works fine? My car is acting EXACTLY the same way it did when it was out of time (before I did the t-belt job), but the belt feels nice and tight and the tensioner appears to be doing its job as far as I can see. I guess this weekend I'm gonna tear it apart and re-align everything, just to make sure. I'm also gonna throw in a new set of plugs and a new coolant temp sensor. I hope this tri-fecta will solve my crappy running engine.

Just not holding. Mine seemed tight as a virgin cat's ass, but failed after a few weeks.

evolutionmovement wrote:Just not holding. Mine seemed tight as a virgin cat's ass, but failed after a few weeks.

When you say "failed", what exactly do you mean? It just didn't hold proper tension anymore? It was leaking fluid? Some metal part broke?

I've heard from several mechanics that these tensioners are pretty much a "either it works or it doesn't" kinda deal. Like there's no partial failures or intermittant failures, it just poops out 100% when it does poop out. But that's just somebody's opinion, and honestly, when it comes to Subarus, I don't really trust the opinion of "general" mechanics most of the time. Even Subaru mechanics can be quite ignorant and give false advice.

Did your tensioner failure cause the belt to skip a tooth, making your engine run choppy?

My timing belt is nice and tight right now, leading me to believe that it's probably still in the same spot as I left it when I did the timing belt job. So... I'm thinking it's possible that the timing belt isn't the issue at all, but the coolant temp sensor might be. The coolant temp sensor is one of the main sensors that the ECU uses to adjust the timing, and if the sensor is no good, the ECU can be fooled into thinking the engine is cold all the time. It would be like driving a carbeurated vehicle with the choke closed all the time. That's just my thought, though. I won't know anything for sure until this weekend when I get a chance to tinker with it.

Just didn't hold enough tension. Stopped at gas station, tried to restart, kicked twice and wouldn't start after that. Skipped several teeth.

All you gotta do is line up the marks on the pulleys and count the teeth to make sure it hasn't skipped a tooth. Then you'll know for sure whether that's your problem or not.

The number of teeth is in another timing belt thread that was just recently made too.

Cool. This weekend I will:

Check timing belt (count teeth and make sure it hasn't skipped any) If it has skipped teeth, I will reset the belt and order a brand new tensioner from Joyku.

Change the coolant temp sensor

Change the spark plugs

And I think I'll try the water drinking trick and see if I can clear some buildup out of the pistons.

I'll post results this weekend. This crappy running problem my car is having seems to be pretty damn common, so if any of the stuff I try this weekend works, I'll let yall know so you can try it out.

OK so here's what happened:

Checked the timing belt and tensioner- no problems there. Everything is still tip top timing-wise.

Did the Sea Foam treatment by sucking it out of the can with the vaccuum hose that connects the canister purge solenoid to the top of the intake manifold. WOW there was a lot of gunk in there. Smoked out my entire neighborhood with the exhaust. Kinda surprised nobody yelled at me or called the cops. But yeah that helped a lot.

Changed out almost every vaccuum hose under the hood.

Put in a new set of plugs- this is actually what fixed my problems. Not because the other plugs were fauled or anything, but because the last time I put plugs in, the crush washer on the No.3 plug jammed itself on the threads of the plug at an angle. So the plug was only screwed in half way and not seated at all. When I went to take it out, it was barely hand tight. That's what that wierd "slapping" sound was coming from the passenger side of my engine bay at highway speeds; it was the #3 cylinder hemorraging compression through the plug hole.

Lesson learned: When you change your plugs, use a little dielectric grease to hold the crush washer flat on the plug so that it seats properly when you get it screwed in.

I've been diagnosing this problem for a couple weeks now, only to find out the problem was a $1.75 spark plug. Goes to show you: When you have troubles with your car, CHECK THE SIMPLE STUFF FIRST!