o crap what wires go where pictures attached... need diagram

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T-lego
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o crap what wires go where pictures attached... need diagram

Post by T-lego »

i have a 92 turbo legacy sedan, these are the wires in back of the throttle body they are old and when i took the engine out they broke, and now i have no spark. i need to get my car on the road asap there is snow on the ground and i want to enjoy my awd :-)

Image

Image

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anyway to trace these wires or a pin out diagram would be great. thank you
magicmike
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Post by magicmike »

ok you have alot going on in these pics.
The first pic. all I see is wires everywhere.
The second and third pics. what are they? is that the one plug that is in the first pic? This whole thing is pretty confusing.

1. How many cables and or pluga are there in total that are screwed up?

post this and be really descriptive as to what you are seeing.
-Mike

2011 Infiniti G37x Sedan - Current
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1994 Subaru Legacy Sport Wagon (White)
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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

You're in deep doo-doo.

Those are the crank & cam sensors, and possible knock sensor. They all shielded wiring, and really "shouldn't be spliced due to the low voltages and possibility of adding resistance to the wiring. You could give it a shot and see how splicing things together works.
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

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PhyrraM
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Post by PhyrraM »

Splicing should be fine as far as getting the car to run. It may or may not be an acceptable long term solution depending on your climate.

It looks like the cam and crank sensors have the exact same colors. This makes sense because they are most likely made from the same shielded cable. They do run straight to the ECU and a full swap is a PITA.

What I would do is to use male and female 1/4" insulated spade connectors to make the repair. Make sure that you wire both sensors the same.

For example:
Black wire: Male on the harness, female on the sensor.
Brown wire: Female on the harness, male on the sensor.

Etc. Etc.

Now, it will either start or not. (assuming there is nothing else wrong). If it doesn't start, swap each cable @ the spade connectors you just added. I.E. swap the cam and crank sensors.

Use something like these. http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_83 ... 97D655807D
'93 Winestone SS Auto, '91 Pearl White SS.
'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
T-lego
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Post by T-lego »

ya i am in trouble, i have no idea what plug goes where. i can kinda of match the colors but i would much rather just have a good harness if someone has an extra one hanging around. how hard is it to replace?
93forestpearl
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Post by 93forestpearl »

Just match up the wire colors. It looks like you didn't rip any wires out of the plugs, so you should be able to match them up. You'll probably have to strip them back a ways to get to good wire that isn't stretched to all hell. Be very liberal with the electrical tape once everything is connected.



I WILL SAY THIS ONCE AND ONCE ONLY! Get some heat shrink butt connectors. Soldering, especially in that spot, is less than ideal. There is a reason that you will not find a soldered wire in a factory harness.
→Dan

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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

You need to try and reconnect the shielding or you may pick up EM interference.
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
BSOD2600
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Post by BSOD2600 »

Legacy777 wrote:Those are the crank & cam sensors, and possible knock sensor. They all shielded wiring, and really "shouldn't be spliced due to the low voltages and possibility of adding resistance to the wiring.
Really? When my cam (or was it crank?) wires broke while driving from being so brittle INSIDE the damn connector, I went to the junkyard and hacked off 8" of new wiring harness. Then I hacked off my old harness, near where it comes out of the main wiring bundle in the engine bay. I soldered all the wires together, covered with heat shrink, wrapped with electrical tape and plastic conduit.

The soldering makes much better connection, thus the resistance should effect things that much right? At least I haven't had any CEL's or noticeable performance loss since I did that 2 years ago.

T-lego:
Here is the pic of my harness when I limped home. Might help give you an idea on where the various faded wires go. I was able to solder on a new hardness for that mess in an afternoon. Been running good for 2 years so far.

Image

'11 WRX Limited
'94 SS | 3" TBE, 07 TMIC, TD05H-16G, Revtronix Stage 2, Walbro -- Sold
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