legacycentral bbs

i have a 92 turbo legacy sedan, these are the wires in back of the throttle body they are old and when i took the engine out they broke, and now i have no spark. i need to get my car on the road asap there is snow on the ground and i want to enjoy my awd







anyway to trace these wires or a pin out diagram would be great. thank you

ok you have alot going on in these pics.
The first pic. all I see is wires everywhere.
The second and third pics. what are they? is that the one plug that is in the first pic? This whole thing is pretty confusing.

1. How many cables and or pluga are there in total that are screwed up?

post this and be really descriptive as to what you are seeing.

You're in deep doo-doo.

Those are the crank & cam sensors, and possible knock sensor. They all shielded wiring, and really "shouldn't be spliced due to the low voltages and possibility of adding resistance to the wiring. You could give it a shot and see how splicing things together works.

Splicing should be fine as far as getting the car to run. It may or may not be an acceptable long term solution depending on your climate.

It looks like the cam and crank sensors have the exact same colors. This makes sense because they are most likely made from the same shielded cable. They do run straight to the ECU and a full swap is a PITA.

What I would do is to use male and female 1/4" insulated spade connectors to make the repair. Make sure that you wire both sensors the same.

For example:
Black wire: Male on the harness, female on the sensor.
Brown wire: Female on the harness, male on the sensor.

Etc. Etc.

Now, it will either start or not. (assuming there is nothing else wrong). If it doesn't start, swap each cable @ the spade connectors you just added. I.E. swap the cam and crank sensors.

Use something like these. http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_83 ... 97D655807D

ya i am in trouble, i have no idea what plug goes where. i can kinda of match the colors but i would much rather just have a good harness if someone has an extra one hanging around. how hard is it to replace?

Just match up the wire colors. It looks like you didn't rip any wires out of the plugs, so you should be able to match them up. You'll probably have to strip them back a ways to get to good wire that isn't stretched to all hell. Be very liberal with the electrical tape once everything is connected.



I WILL SAY THIS ONCE AND ONCE ONLY! Get some heat shrink butt connectors. Soldering, especially in that spot, is less than ideal. There is a reason that you will not find a soldered wire in a factory harness.

You need to try and reconnect the shielding or you may pick up EM interference.

Legacy777 wrote:Those are the crank & cam sensors, and possible knock sensor. They all shielded wiring, and really "shouldn't be spliced due to the low voltages and possibility of adding resistance to the wiring.

Really? When my cam (or was it crank?) wires broke while driving from being so brittle INSIDE the damn connector, I went to the junkyard and hacked off 8" of new wiring harness. Then I hacked off my old harness, near where it comes out of the main wiring bundle in the engine bay. I soldered all the wires together, covered with heat shrink, wrapped with electrical tape and plastic conduit.

The soldering makes much better connection, thus the resistance should effect things that much right? At least I haven't had any CEL's or noticeable performance loss since I did that 2 years ago.

T-lego:
Here is the pic of my harness when I limped home. Might help give you an idea on where the various faded wires go. I was able to solder on a new hardness for that mess in an afternoon. Been running good for 2 years so far.