legacycentral bbs

So like on my sedan my 1994 turbo wagon wont start. Drove it to work and then when i cam out five minutes later it would crank but no start. I replaced spark plugs, and wires last week. My buddy came and we put gas in it just in case it had run out but still it will crank but doesnt turnover. It has some codes I will put up later. Should I try the coil I have an extra. The intake is missing a piece right after the black canister after the airbox, which i put a cuppler over and it helped a bit.

Can you hear your fuel pump priming when you turn the key to the "ON" position?

I think so. we had fuel in the line from the filter. i replaced filter also.

Sad part is there are nine codes.

12 starter switch Abnormal signal emitted from starter switch Turns starter signal switch OFF

13 cam angle sensor No signal entered from cam angle sensor, but signal (corresponding to at least two rotations of cam) entered from crank angle sensor

21 Water temperature sensor Abnormal signal emitted from water temperature sensor Adjusts water to a specific temperature, maintains radiator fan "ON" to prevent overheating

22 Knock sensor Abnormal voltage produced in knock sensor monitor circuit Sets in regular fuel map and retards ignition timing

23 Air flow sensor Abnormal voltage input entered from air flow sensor Controls the amount of fuel (injected) in relation to engine speed and throttle sensor position

31 Throttle sensor Abnormal voltage input entered from throttle sensor Sets throttle sensor's voltage output to a fixed value

32 Oxygen sensor Oxygen sensor inoperative
41 A/F learning control Faulty learning control function
49 Air flow sensor Use of improper air flow sensor

Did the car run just fine with no codes before you shut it off? If so i would say its possible that you have a grounding problem, or a battery issue of sorts. check the voltage of the battery and then possibly do some resistance tests in your grounding system.

If you had existing problems, im not really sure. Its just not that often that all these problems just happen after you shut off a car. But i will say that i have had similar issues in the past with other subarus of mine. And every time it was corrosion on the battery cables not just the posts. Thats why i recommend the resistance tests.

Ok to help you out i would suggest that you start by checking the connecter at the fuel pump. Mine acts up sometimes because of a bad grounding wire from the pump. If that checks out ok then next thing is if you have an extra legacy MAF trying swapping it. Those are what i have found to give me troubles. If neither of those help you out you may be looking at a bad crank or cam sensor. Just some ideas.

Clear the codes, try to start the car, and then check the codes again.

I replaced filter and it was nasty. I tried to start it and it just cranked but no turnover. I had a cam angle sensor laying around and tried it since I am getting a code that says there is not signal coming from it but that did nothing. After replacing the filter I took it back out and it had no fuel in it. Left the line off and turned the key and no fuel was flowing. Now I have the cover above the fuel pump off and going to see if I can figure out the problem.

I would guess that it's either a dead fuel pump or a dead fuel pump relay.

where is the fuel pump relay at?

Under the dash. It's kind of a pain to get to. I'd test the fuel pump to see if it's the problem first.

ok will do.

FWIW, these cars are known for having the wires to the fuel pump corroding/shorting away. There is a connector under the rear seat that gets squished and sat on over the years and the wires have been known to give out. The factory wiring was a little sparse here to begin with and 15yrs of use doesn't do it any good. So I'd check those connectors while you're at as they're easier to get to than the fuel pump relay.